[Spaceme1117]

Hello.

I was curious if anyone has converted their headers from the garbage ball and socket joints at the header collector to V-band style clamps?

I have Kooks headers and I keep getting an intermittent P105B code from an exhaust leak. I suspect it is the ball and socket connection. Kooks now uses a rounded band clamp that I don't think seals very well. I do use the high temp exhaust gasket sealant from Permatex but I keep getting the code.

Kooks used to use a clamp that was a flange on the header and a flange on the connector pipe that pulled the tow pieces together and you could really tighten up on it. The new style just sucks.

I am going to change out my header flange gaskets just in case but I doubt it will help.

Was thinking that changing over to a V-band could solve this. Only problem is finding an exhaust shop that knows what the hell they are doing.

[04DetroitLS]

Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

Hello.

I was curious if anyone has converted their headers from the garbage ball and socket joints at the header collector to V-band style clamps?

I have Kooks headers and I keep getting an intermittent P105B code from an exhaust leak. I suspect it is the ball and socket connection. Kooks now uses a rounded band clamp that I don't think seals very well. I do use the high temp exhaust gasket sealant from Permatex but I keep getting the code.

Kooks used to use a clamp that was a flange on the header and a flange on the connector pipe that pulled the tow pieces together and you could really tighten up on it. The new style just sucks.

I am going to change out my header flange gaskets just in case but I doubt it will help.

Was thinking that changing over to a V-band could solve this. Only problem is finding an exhaust shop that knows what the hell they are doing.

Im having a hell of a time finding someone to tig o2 bungs in my headers so I feel your pain :P
I knew tons of shops in Detroit, not many down here though

[AZIROC]

If I wasn't in a rush to put the exhaust on, I'd prob went v clamps. But the regular clamps worked for me after I got them adjusted.

[Spaceme1117]

So update. I figured I might as well try to tighten up my exhaust manifold to head bolts and see if maybe that would fix my issue. None of the bolts were loose but they did turn a bit as I tightened them to 20 lb-ft. And that seems to have fixed the problem.

So fingers crossed for now.

[easttxss]

Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

So update. I figured I might as well try to tighten up my exhaust manifold to head bolts and see if maybe that would fix my issue. None of the bolts were loose but they did turn a bit as I tightened them to 20 lb-ft. And that seems to have fixed the problem.

So fingers crossed for now.

That is where my leak and codes were originating from when I bought the car. Replaced the gaskets and have not had any more issues.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

I upgraded my ARH flanges to V bands, and wish i would have done this before i powder coated them. The seal is so much better, with no leaks.

[cheeze9878]

Originally Posted by 04DetroitLS

Im having a hell of a time finding someone to tig o2 bungs in my headers so I feel your pain :P
I knew tons of shops in Detroit, not many down here though

If you can, try taking them off and just taking the headers to the shop so they don't have to worry about emissions stuff

[NW-99SS]

This might not apply to the OP, but after installing headers, it's advisable to at least re-torque your header bolts after 1 or 2 heat cycles.

Note, the temp at which you torque plays an important aspect in this as well. Torqueing warm or hot, is actually much higher torque than cold.

[RamAir02]

Originally Posted by NW-99SS

This might not apply to the OP, but after installing headers, it's advisable to at least re-torque your header bolts after 1 or 2 heat cycles.

Note, the temp at which you torque plays an important aspect in this as well. Torqueing warm or hot, is actually much higher torque than cold.

Good point. Same logic as don't torque your wheels when the car is hot. Best practice at the track is torque the wheels each morning before heading out for a session (when the car is cold).

[NW-99SS]

Originally Posted by RamAir02

Good point. Same logic as don't torque your wheels when the car is hot. Best practice at the track is torque the wheels each morning before heading out for a session (when the car is cold).

Lots don't realize this and then wonder why it's so hard to remove certain bolts/nuts that were torqued hot.

[danhr]

the ball and socket flange works very well, when used properly. don't forget that you have to torque the clamp..... excessively tightening it will cause a leak.

have you tried replacing the oxygen sensor?

[tbair64]

Originally Posted by 04DetroitLS

Im having a hell of a time finding someone to tig o2 bungs in my headers so I feel your pain :P
I knew tons of shops in Detroit, not many down here though

where in Florida are you. Might be able to help you out if your close and they are off the car.

[04DetroitLS]

Originally Posted by tbair64

where in Florida are you. Might be able to help you out if your close and they are off the car.

Space coast,
Headers are still off the car, found one place that does tig, but they close at 3pm and #fulltimejob