[winged1]

As the title mentions. I installed eibach springs and now the car is stupid stiff and bouncy. It’s to the point that it’s fairly dangerous going over dips or bumps at speed. I had it aligned at the dealer but didn’t help. Should I just go back to stock or are there better options out there? Any feed back is appreciated. Thanks

[Bumbleboy92]

When I installed the v6 Eibach Pro springs, I also used SS (FE3) shocks. The ride was very rough but great in corners. Depends on what you want from the suspension, if you just want a lowered height with a good ride then these springs are not for you, may need to look at coilovers if that's the case

[winged1]

Can you recommend a good coil over set up that won’t blow my wallet up? Thank you. FYI the ride is literally ridiculous. It feels like the car catches air on some bumps.

[cdb95z28]

You need to time the rubber suspension bushings.

Every rubber bushing is now in a state of twist or bind at the new static ride height. This includes the anti roll bar mounts. To relieve the stress each rubber bushed suspension joint needs to be loosened, at ride height, then retightened. This will reset each bushing to a new zero bind state. Note that on the Gen6 there are some joints that are a spherical ball type joint. They do not need reset. They are self resetting.

Coming from the Gen5 community and now as a Gen6 SS 1LE owner, I see less conversations about timing the bushings among the Gen6 groups. I'm willing to bet most guys doing springs haven't done it. GM calls out timing the bushings in the service manual as tightening the suspension joints at ride height. So this is something that is important. Yeah, it adds time and cost to just doing drop springs but do it once, do it right.

Most suspension fasteners are torque to yield (TTY) one time use per GM. Each bolt should be replaced every time they have been fully tightened.

Is your car MagRide equipped? If so, then the ride height sensors also need rezero'd. There are relatively cheap scan tools on amazon that can do this.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153188

[cdb95z28]

Your SS may have more rubber bushed joints than I described in the below post. But, there are links there for fastener torque specs.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=10

[SSShark]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Your SS may have more rubber bushed joints than I described in the below post. But, there are links there for fastener torque specs.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=10

Great info cdb95z28. Quick question; I'll be installing the GM lowering kit on my 23 SS shortly. Does the rubber suspension bushing process also apply?

Edit: Didn't mean to hijack.

[clg82]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

You need to time the rubber suspension bushings.

Every rubber bushing is now in a state of twist or bind at the new static ride height. This includes the anti roll bar mounts.

This^^ a little research prior to installation would have helped alleviate this.

[SSShark]

Originally Posted by SSShark

Great info cdb95z28. Quick question; I'll be installing the GM lowering kit on my 23 SS shortly. Does the rubber suspension bushing process also apply?

Edit: Didn't mean to hijack.

NM, I found the answer.

[winged1]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

You need to time the rubber suspension bushings.

Every rubber bushing is now in a state of twist or bind at the new static ride height. This includes the anti roll bar mounts. To relieve the stress each rubber bushed suspension joint needs to be loosened, at ride height, then retightened. This will reset each bushing to a new zero bind state. Note that on the Gen6 there are some joints that are a spherical ball type joint. They do not need reset. They are self resetting.

Coming from the Gen5 community and now as a Gen6 SS 1LE owner, I see less conversations about timing the bushings among the Gen6 groups. I'm willing to bet most guys doing springs haven't done it. GM calls out timing the bushings in the service manual as tightening the suspension joints at ride height. So this is something that is important. Yeah, it adds time and cost to just doing drop springs but do it once, do it right.

Most suspension fasteners are torque to yield (TTY) one time use per GM. Each bolt should be replaced every time they have been fully tightened.

Is your car MagRide equipped? If so, then the ride height sensors also need rezero'd. There are relatively cheap scan tools on amazon that can do this.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153188

Awesome thank you. So much for following the instructions to t. I’ve never had to do this on any vehicle I’ve lowered. Anyway I really appreciate the help. I hope this takes care of the issue.

[atx_traveler]

winged1 - how many miles are on your car? do you have MRC? mine is non-MRC and after 5 years with the Eibach springs I can feel the shocks deteriorating. Going to pick up some Konis soon.

[teddyca]

Oh Boy I am in the same ass position as you. This is my second 2017 2SS. First one had MRC and when I lowered it, it was great. My car now is on a set of Eibachs, every adjustable control arm, etc, from BMR out back, and is non-MRC. I hate driving the car. I figured it was the non MRC shocks but now I am second guessing. I also took it to a local dealer that specializes in GM performance and I asked for a "street" alignment and they dialed it in. It is like I cut the springs. I have considered going back to stock because I hate it, but damn it looks good. LOL

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by teddyca

Oh Boy I am in the same ass position as you. This is my second 2017 2SS. First one had MRC and when I lowered it, it was great. My car now is on a set of Eibachs, every adjustable control arm, etc, from BMR out back, and is non-MRC. I hate driving the car. I figured it was the non MRC shocks but now I am second guessing. I also took it to a local dealer that specializes in GM performance and I asked for a "street" alignment and they dialed it in. It is like I cut the springs. I have considered going back to stock because I hate it, but damn it looks good. LOL

BMR arms out back.....poly or sphericals?

[teddyca]

Sorry brother I dont even know what that means lol. I assume "spherical" refers to the adjustable stuff with the heim joints, which is what I have. I basically have the following from BMR, I be missing a couple parts but theres a lot of red. adjustable control arms, trailing arms, toe rods, sway bars. I had the non adjustable stuff and sold it all here hoping the adjustable would help and well nope. Shit I even bought all the stuff I replaced back from another seller because I tossed my stuff sure I would never go back to stock. LOL

[Texas1ss]

I wonder if it's even possible to keep the ride quality of an SS with MRC and dropping it a little bit. I like the look bigtime, but I don't want to get tossed around. I'm in Tour mode suspension on every mode, whether Sport or Track, 100 percent of the time. I'll have to check into it.