[vigg]

Attached pics here for reference..

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by vigg

Attached pics here for reference..

That’s exactly what my thrust bearing looked like. GM considers that prelude to failure? Either they made an entire production line of lemons or they jumped the gun on calling it an early failure. That thrust design is downright shitty. The thrust sides are barely tack welded to the main bearing, it wouldn’t take much abuse to knock the tack off and the only thing that keeps the thrust in place is lubrication and the 3 keeper slots on the bearings.

Some pics of my bearings. I only tore my engine down to forge and stud it, there was nothing wrong with it prior to removal. Just prepping it for boosted life. I didn’t take a pic of the thrust separated, but the rearward face of the thrust bearing was detached from the main and only held in place by the keeper slots.







And here are some of the other engine I was going to use but the thrust had actually failed and spun.












On my forged build I went with the ACL bearings, they offer a full 360 thrust bearing and it’s a 1 piece design unlike the OEM seems to be truly a 3 piece design.

[dpevans]

Originally Posted by VR Baron

That sucks. Hope all is taken care of. I have a 2021, built 10/1/2020 and is a M6. Back then I had to worry about the valve springs being bad from a bad batch affecting July- September cars, Camaros and vettes. I have a tech friend check the car I was buying and no recalls or tsb’s, so lucky. I to have a ticking sound but that’s fuel injection noise in the rails, my fifth gen had same. 15000 miles on the car and over three years of autocross 1-2 gear high rpm use and no issues nor any oil consumption.

Guess it was a Wednesday built car..lol

Isn't that weird, Mine has 5,900 and been tracked 4 times and oil changed at 500, 2,000 right before 2cd track event and getting ready to do another and it has not burned any oil. I am using the Super Car. I am shocked that Chevy built an aluminum motor and I got one that doesn't burn oil, my NorthStar I had to put a quart in every time I pulled in the driveway.

[23VIVIDORANGE1LE]

I have your triplet.... This is the very reason I'm building a 416" for my Bad Pumpkin.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by dpevans

I think thats why when the car warranty is over I am doing the AFM delete.

I was going to until I saw what was involved. LT1 isn't a typical easy to work on SBC, heads have to come off to replace lifters and my tech said it was going to be ~$3k in labor. At that point it's hard to skip doing cam and some head work, and the cost starts getting out of hand.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

I was going to until I saw what was involved. LT1 isn't a typical easy to work on SBC, heads have to come off to replace lifters and my tech said it was going to be ~$3k in labor. At that point it's hard to skip doing cam and some head work, and the cost starts getting out of hand.

I don’t think you can delete the afm without actually changing the cam. If you can I’d actually be willing to do that. And yeah unfortunately since at least the LS1 days the heads now unfortunately need to come off for a lifter swap. Sucks because I think lifters are pushrod engines biggest problems in general (Ford and dodge have lifter issues as well) and the average gas station mechanic used to be able to swap lifters as they were under the intake a looooong time ago.

[GreyGhost702]

m6 is correct, you'd need a non-AFM OE-spec cam at a minimum, can't just delete the AFM without doing it. In that respect, it's not the easiest to work on but it's not a horrible job either. Having had the engine out by myself, if I had to do just a cam swap, I could do it with the engine in the car. Some provisions would need to be made of course, to make the job easier. I fully removed my firewall cowling when I did my engine build. Made access in the engine bay 10x better. There's so much shit hiding under the cowl it's a wonder how some folk manage with the cowling in place. It must be quite the battle. This method also makes removal/installation of the heads a breeze as well. There's also a bit of a shortcut in moving the radiator out of the way without removing it from the car when it comes to removing/installing the cam.

I would not say it's a waste of time to do a cam swap, whether it's swapping for an AFM Delete OE spec cam or otherwise. Is it as easy as an LS platform, probably not. Definitely gonna take more time. I think a cam swap is easily do-able over a weekend, done by an enthusiast grade mechanic/tools/garage. Taking your time with lots of breaks, 12-14 hours. If you know your Gen 5 LT1, have all your parts and tools lined up and ready to go, 6 hours.

Yeah, it's definitely not a simple CAI/Muffler job.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by GreyGhost702

m6 is correct, you'd need a non-AFM OE-spec cam at a minimum, can't just delete the AFM without doing it. In that respect, it's not the easiest to work on but it's not a horrible job either. Having had the engine out by myself, if I had to do just a cam swap, I could do it with the engine in the car. Some provisions would need to be made of course, to make the job easier. I fully removed my firewall cowling when I did my engine build. Made access in the engine bay 10x better. There's so much shit hiding under the cowl it's a wonder how some folk manage with the cowling in place. It must be quite the battle. This method also makes removal/installation of the heads a breeze as well. There's also a bit of a shortcut in moving the radiator out of the way without removing it from the car when it comes to removing/installing the cam.

I would not say it's a waste of time to do a cam swap, whether it's swapping for an AFM Delete OE spec cam or otherwise. Is it as easy as an LS platform, probably not. Definitely gonna take more time. I think a cam swap is easily do-able over a weekend, done by an enthusiast grade mechanic/tools/garage. Taking your time with lots of breaks, 12-14 hours. If you know your Gen 5 LT1, have all your parts and tools lined up and ready to go, 6 hours.

Yeah, it's definitely not a simple CAI/Muffler job.

Yeah that’s definitely above my abilities haha. Been debating when warranty is up throwing the LT5 cam in it as that’s a non dod oem cam. It’d be a lot of money for basically no power gain though but I do like to stay as oem as possible.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by GreyGhost702

m6 is correct, you'd need a non-AFM OE-spec cam at a minimum, can't just delete the AFM without doing it. In that respect, it's not the easiest to work on but it's not a horrible job either. Having had the engine out by myself, if I had to do just a cam swap, I could do it with the engine in the car. Some provisions would need to be made of course, to make the job easier. I fully removed my firewall cowling when I did my engine build. Made access in the engine bay 10x better. There's so much shit hiding under the cowl it's a wonder how some folk manage with the cowling in place. It must be quite the battle. This method also makes removal/installation of the heads a breeze as well. There's also a bit of a shortcut in moving the radiator out of the way without removing it from the car when it comes to removing/installing the cam.

I would not say it's a waste of time to do a cam swap, whether it's swapping for an AFM Delete OE spec cam or otherwise. Is it as easy as an LS platform, probably not. Definitely gonna take more time. I think a cam swap is easily do-able over a weekend, done by an enthusiast grade mechanic/tools/garage. Taking your time with lots of breaks, 12-14 hours. If you know your Gen 5 LT1, have all your parts and tools lined up and ready to go, 6 hours.

Yeah, it's definitely not a simple CAI/Muffler job.

Hmmm, doesn't sound too bad. I could use a bit more power and a higher redline... Maybe I'll do it over the winter.

That $3k in labor seems like it's a lot of hours, but with many shops charging crazy-high hourly rates $3k doesn't go that far.

[242ss1LE]

Originally Posted by vigg

I started hearing ticking noise from engine bay after starting the vehicle two days back so took it to the dealership. They said camshaft has been damaged but car has only 4K miles. They ordered the part and said it will be fixed under warranty.
Should I be worried that this happened within the first one year of purchase and please advise whether I need to ask the dealership to check/replace anything else that might have been damages b/c of this issue.

Appreciate the help!

my 24 does not tick but it has recently felt bogged down in first was this happening to you before the tick mine only has 2600 miles on it but i know it does not feel right when i launch car.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by 242ss1LE

my 24 does not tick but it has recently felt bogged down in first was this happening to you before the tick mine only has 2600 miles on it but i know it does not feel right when i launch car.

Try turning the nannies off and see if it still bogs (but be careful!).

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by 242ss1LE

my 24 does not tick but it has recently felt bogged down in first was this happening to you before the tick mine only has 2600 miles on it but i know it does not feel right when i launch car.

Were you driving in track mode? I noticed it takes a little more throttle to get going in track mode than in sport. It will bog a bit if you don’t give enough gas to get going in first in track mode. This was present on my 16 SS as well. Try driving in sport mode.

[Azmedian]

Too late im sure but did they change the lifters

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by Azmedian

Too late im sure but did they change the lifters

To what, non-DoD lifters? That isn't the OE spec, I think on a warranty job a dealership would only replace the old ones with the exact same setup that the car came with.