[Caspeyy]

Hey all,
My upstream O2 sensor on the driver side is shot and I am attempting to replace it myself. (Not a mechanic at all, pretty new to doing self maintenance as well.)

I was able to get the actual sensor off and out of the cat, but i'm struggling with getting the wiring harness disconnected.

I pulled up the white tab, and that's about as far as I've gotten with it. I don't have much room to look around and see if i'm missing something.

Is there another piece holding it in that i'm missing? Or is it just the white tab and that its stuck?

Thank you!

[Caspeyy]

Figured id add a pic just incase it helps at all

[Caspeyy]

Update: incase anyone gets in my situation. I pushed the white tab out, and then with a tiny flathead screwdriver, i pushed the middle of the white pin inwards and that released the o2 sensor from the wiring harness. Not sure thats the proper way to do it, but it worked for me.
(Sorry for thread bumping)

[ilovemusclecar]

Originally Posted by Caspeyy

Update: incase anyone gets in my situation. I pushed the white tab out, and then with a tiny flathead screwdriver, i pushed the middle of the white pin inwards and that released the o2 sensor from the wiring harness. Not sure thats the proper way to do it, but it worked for me.
(Sorry for thread bumping)

In your situation. Worth a shot, thanks

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Caspeyy

(Not a mechanic at all, pretty new to doing self maintenance as well.)

Well, you seem to have done quite well! O2 sensors can be a real pain to remove. Use the copper anti-seize or similar on the threads when you reinstall.
I assume you pulled a code which pointed you to this sensor?

[ilovemusclecar]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

Well, you seem to have done quite well! O2 sensors can be a real pain to remove. Use the copper anti-seize or similar on the threads when you reinstall.
I assume you pulled a code which pointed you to this sensor?

Do you know the wet torque spec for the o2 sensors? I am using copper antiseize (may be my first time ever wet torqueing something) and it's so easy to turn that I'm concerned. I've reinstalled these before for a catback exhaust and it was far harder.

I would quantify my current level of torque (hand torqued) as quite tight without giving it everything I had. (I tried that, it just kept turning!)

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by ilovemusclecar

Do you know the wet torque spec for the o2 sensors? I am using copper antiseize (may be my first time ever wet torqueing something) and it's so easy to turn that I'm concerned. I've reinstalled these before for a catback exhaust and it was far harder.

I would quantify my current level of torque (hand torqued) as quite tight without giving it everything I had. (I tried that, it just kept turning!)

I would not get crazy. Quite tight sounds good enough for me. The threads can get corroded and you don't want to strip them and have to weld a new bung in place. These are not under any kind of rotational stress.

The catback may have been corroded. There is a tool called a thread chaser which is good for that situation. Better than a tap as it pushes distorted metal to "rebuild" the threads. They definitely make thread chasers in spark plug and oxygen sensor sizes, as those are common locations this can be useful.

[ilovemusclecar]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

I would not get crazy. Quite tight sounds good enough for me. The threads can get corroded and you don't want to strip them and have to weld a new bung in place. These are not under any kind of rotational stress.

The catback may have been corroded. There is a tool called a thread chaser which is good for that situation. Better than a tap as it pushes distorted metal to "rebuild" the threads. They definitely make thread chasers in spark plug and oxygen sensor sizes, as those are common locations this can be useful.

I would call what I did to be semi-tight for wet. It's quite tight but can be undone with no effort and tightened further with a little bit of effort.