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Old 03-21-2013, 06:11 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by litle88 View Post
Tracy don't mind him, he's got a BWM now! Thanks for the info always a pleasure reading your stuff. Now how would you go about me? You've seen my setup and catch can is vented. I'm SD and the Driverside is capped. Should I vent the D/S (what is the part to do it with) and plug the catchcan back to the intake? Ps I'm a stroker with hellfire rings and built a lil on the loose side.
"Talk to me Goose" I mean Tracy. Lol
LOL! Your SD tuned so no need to control the clean side air entering. I would put a breather (an open non valved one) on the opposite valve cover you have the can evacuating from and then use the IM vacuum barb to evacuate (as long as your NA) that way at all running except WOT (when there is no measurable vac at the barb) your always evacuating and your can will trap any oil from ingesting. If you have more crankcase pressure at WOT than will run through the dirty side it will vent out the breather and all is good (assuming your off road only use as far as emmissions).



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Tracy, in earlier posts you have mentioned the Mike Norris can as a good one. That is what I am running so I am curious - have you changed your mind? I know you can't test and list all the catch cans out there nor do I expect you to. So, I ask only because you have mentioned the Norris can in the past.

Thanks for helping us out on this always heated topic.
Yes, the MN can (or CCA and several other brands on it) works well with most mild builds and only allows a moderate amount of pull through. It came in just under the Elite/AMW and thats only because of the coalescing chamber size so small and the outlet barb is only app 1" from where the droplets are dripping from the coalescing chamber so some get pulled out. Still an excellent can.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:22 PM   #16
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Thanks Tracy, and cap the Valley cover tube? Or "T" it to the passenger side valvecover leading to the catch can?
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:23 PM   #17
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Sorry Apex! Didn't mean to high jack one more response and ill shift it back to you guys. Lol
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:24 PM   #18
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ROFL guess people missed the joking part.
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:24 PM   #19
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Go away BMW boy "your drunk" lol
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:53 PM   #20
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Great job Chase! Keep these threads coming
Thanks. Seems like lately some have forgotten what a technical forum is for and decided to unleash their sales staff instead. That is not how we operate. We will focus on providing technical material and being an asset to the community.

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Sorry Apex! Didn't mean to high jack one more response and ill shift it back to you guys. Lol
No apologies need. That is what this thread is about.

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ROFL guess people missed the joking part.
I knew better.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:07 AM   #21
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Modern engines feature a variety of emission control devices and systems to reduce the toxic gases released into the atmosphere. One of these is called the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system. During the combustion process a small amount of gases leak or "blow-by" the piston rings and create a positive pressure in the crankcase. The PCV system vents these gases along with oil mist from the crankcase and routes it back into the intake manifold so it can be burned off. The problem is, over time the excess oil vapor collects along the inside of the intake tract and forms a "gunk". This can lead to a variety of issues including carbon build up, retarded timing, detonation, and power loss.

Carbon build up on intake valves


A "catch can" is an aftermarket device that will condense and collect the oil vapor before it has a chance to reach the intake system. As the gases and oil vapor enter the can they typically pass through a screening mechanism that gives the oil vapor something to adhere to. As the droplets form they drop harmlessly into the bottom of the reservoir so that they can later be drained. The other gases are allowed to pass through so that they can be burned of as intended.

Fluid captured in catch can after 800 miles


When it comes to selecting a catch can you will get what you pay for. Cheap catch cans (less than $100) are plentiful but they are often little more than an empty can with two ports. These will capture a small amount of fluid but the vast majority passes straight through and ends up where you don't want it. Be sure that the can is designed with an effective internal baffling system to pull the oil vapor out of suspension. RX Performance and Elite Engineering catch cans are both great options for V6 and SS Camaro owners. As always, if you have questions regarding this or any topic the crew at Apex Motorsports is more than happy to answer them.
A pic of mine i got from you Chase. Great write up.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:34 AM   #22
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I installed an Rx can recently on a car w/3,000 miles. Is there anything I need to do check for and clean out any build up of oil? Also, if I find "mythical" oil, is there a special procedure to clean it out?
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:20 PM   #23
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Tracy don't mind him, he's got a BWM now! Thanks for the info always a pleasure reading your stuff. Now how would you go about me? You've seen my setup and catch can is vented. I'm SD and the Driverside is capped. Should I vent the D/S (what is the part to do it with) and plug the catchcan back to the intake? Ps I'm a stroker with hellfire rings and built a lil on the loose side.
"Talk to me Goose" I mean Tracy. Lol
i had a catch can which works and a breather for valve cover and the clean side capped off....i went road racing and the pressure built up in my crankcase and blew my rear main seal. i now run the same catch can with the 1LE seperator that catchs the clean side and lets it drain back in while being able to relieve pressure in crank.

i know the rx catch can works beautifully. and the 1LE sperator is oily where i didnt put it so i know that it is doing some collecting and letting it drain back in.
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:06 PM   #24
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i had a catch can which works and a breather for valve cover and the clean side capped off....i went road racing and the pressure built up in my crankcase and blew my rear main seal. i now run the same catch can with the 1LE seperator that catchs the clean side and lets it drain back in while being able to relieve pressure in crank.

i know the rx catch can works beautifully. and the 1LE sperator is oily where i didnt put it so i know that it is doing some collecting and letting it drain back in.
I remember BA, so that worked for you hu?
Thanks for the tip bud. I appreciate that!
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:11 PM   #25
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So deleting the PCV system, or just running breathers, etc. will releive the crankcase pressure from the blow-by....but unless your changing oil every few times the engine is run, the wear is accelerated substantially.

Have to disagree here. Breather caps were all that was available until around 1970 or so (give or take a few years). PCV systems have not been on cars since day one. The statement of substantially accelerated wear is not substantiated.

Letting the fumes go to atmosphere will not accelerate wear as opposed to leaving the PCV system in place. And as has been pointed out, not recycling those fumes into the intake has advantages.

The average car will not see a benefit between pulling a mild vacuum and venting to atmosphere.

Will disconnecting the PCV cause error codes? I do not know. This could be a complication.
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Old 03-22-2013, 04:26 PM   #26
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A pic of mine i got from you Chase. Great write up.
Thanks! I dig the garage decor.
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Old 03-22-2013, 04:30 PM   #27
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Ok I changed it today since the weather was kinda nice. So Tracy is this better?



Here is the drivers side valve cover with just a breather and no valves.

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Old 03-22-2013, 05:36 PM   #28
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I remember BA, so that worked for you hu?
Thanks for the tip bud. I appreciate that!
worked beautifully. already been on a road course with this setup. everything is clean where it should be and pressure is able to be released. i dont have the quarter of water bottle gunk stuck in the catch can when doing oil changes...more like a couple of big spoon fulls. regardless i am happy it isnt being injested and dumped in my intake and valvetrain. think my break in philosphy of running it hard with magnetic drain plug and filter sleeve with oil changes every 500 may or may not have helped with that.
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