[Burly]

What's the best wideband sensor? I want to permanently mount. Am I skimping by doing a no weld version? Am I am skimping by only use one side? Can I get AEM without the gauge? I'll be connecting to HP Tuner.

[travislambert]

It's hard to beat an AEM 30-0333 especially for the price. When using HP tuners, the OBD-II passthrough works awesome and you don't even need the pro version.

I would certainly do a weld-in bung (before the cats). I put bungs in both sides, but I usually only use one side or the other when tuning.

[Burly]

Originally Posted by travislambert

It's hard to beat an AEM 30-0333 especially for the price. When using HP tuners, the OBD-II passthrough works awesome and you don't even need the pro version.

I would certainly do a weld-in bung (before the cats). I put bungs in both sides, but I usually only use one side or the other when tuning.

What did you the gauge? Did you mount it?

[travislambert]

Originally Posted by Burly

What did you the gauge? Did you mount it?

I didn't mount it. I just let it lay in the passenger seat and logged the readings with HP Tuners. I thought about a permanent setup, but always figured I didn't really need it.

On the dyno I watch the laptop and on the road at WOT I have to focus on driving (600+ RWHP).

I've seen folks mount these gauges to the windshield using gps/phone suction cup mounts. That may be an option to try before going all in on a permanent setup.

[Burly]

Thanks, I want to log to HP Tuner only, so I don't need or want the gauge.

[EFI Tuning]

Burly,

I have the inline version (no gauge) with the OBDII firmware but AEM has chosen not to bring this variant to market. I had it reflashed while the OBDII firmware was being developed. I don't believe the developer is still doing flashes on the side now that AEM has released the 30-0333.

The AEM 30-0333 is really the best option especially if you are going to use HP Tuners. No ground offsets to worry about and you get a 100 Hz scan rate vs 10 Hz.

Tim

[travislambert]

Originally Posted by Burly

Thanks, I want to log to HP Tuner only, so I don't need or want the gauge.

Sorry. I misunderstood.

It looks like AEM does offer a controller without the gauge, but I'm not sure about one with OBD-II connectivity. You might be able to use the RS-232 output, but most laptops don't have those ports anymore. I've heard of people using serial to USB adapters, but I haven't done it myself.

I know with the analog outputs it's a constant fight adjusting offsets to keep the readings in sync with the gauge. The HP Tuner "floating ground" fix didn't avoid this problem for me. Without a gauge to sync with, I wouldn't consider relying on a reading from an analog output.

Maybe call AEM?
http://www.aemelectronics.com/contact-us

[Burly]

Thanks. For street run logging, do you just run the cable to the sensor out door/window? Sorry for the newb questions...

[Burly]

I am totally stock except Rotofab. I want to get a baseline and analyze/monitor my stock setup for now.

[EFI Tuning]

I just install mine when needed and run the wire through the window. Put some tape on the paint under the wire then tape the wire down to that layer of tape. It will keep the wire from moving while driving and potentially putting fine scratches in the clearcoat. Just a lesson learned

Tim

[EFI Tuning]

The no weld should be fine but make sure you can get a good seal. Any leak will corrupt the readings.

One side is fine. There is very little variance between banks.

Tim

[Burly]

Originally Posted by EFI Tuning

I just install mine when needed and run the wire through the window. Put some tape on the paint under the wire then tape the wire down to that layer of tape. It will keep the wire from moving while driving and potentially putting fine scratches in the clearcoat. Just a lesson learned

Tim

Thanks! I'm taking this one step at a time. I'll order the AEM and get the bungs installed.

[travislambert]

Originally Posted by EFI Tuning

I just install mine when needed and run the wire through the window. Put some tape on the paint under the wire then tape the wire down to that layer of tape. It will keep the wire from moving while driving and potentially putting fine scratches in the clearcoat. Just a lesson learned

Tim

That's exactly what I do too. I use wide painter's tape against the paint (so there's no residue) and then something more durable, like gorilla tape, over the wires.