[Zzsteve]

Also to OP: we have broken 600 WHP on stock sleeves. Rods and pistons only

[Evil-Bee-NH]

Originally Posted by Zzsteve

Also to OP: we have broken 600 WHP on stock sleeves. Rods and pistons only

You wanna tell us your secret fueling tricks for 600whp. I know you didn't get 600whp out of E85 and a cam with just an upgraded LPFP. Most of us are at the fueling issue stage.

[BlueShadow]

Originally Posted by Zzsteve

Also to OP: we have broken 600 WHP on stock sleeves. Rods and pistons only

Yup i think i saw one of your videos on YT. That was on Allen Mayo's car wasn't it?

[Zzsteve]

Originally Posted by Evil-Bee-NH

You wanna tell us your secret fueling tricks for 600whp. I know you didn't get 600whp out of E85 and a cam with just an upgraded LPFP. Most of us are at the fueling issue stage.

An AEM meth kit gave us a ton of room.

You can get creative with fuel blends also, and not have to run as high of a %E




Yes, that was mayo's car.

[wookwook]

Originally Posted by Zzsteve

An AEM meth kit gave us a ton of room.

sidebar- Hopefully just boost juice alone has enough uumph to even out the added humidity without slamming timing? I look to 50 degree cooler AITs with a touch of advance should work wonders for street night on 93 e10 ....

[Start The Machine]

Originally Posted by Zzsteve

An AEM meth kit gave us a ton of room.

You can get creative with fuel blends also, and not have to run as high of a %E




Yes, that was mayo's car.

Can you please elaborate more on the Meth Kit installation? Especially the wring of the progressive controller. What kind of signal did you use for it? (MAP sensor at the throttle body spacer?)

Where did you put the nozzle? (In the cold side charge pipe? Throttle body spacer?)

Do you have any pictures of the installation process?

[BlueShadow]

Originally Posted by sadpanda

Only way to do it would be to have a salvage donor of same year


Need front cradle, rear cradle, diff, axles, shocks/springs, ecm, sway bars. I think knuckles/hubs/control arms are same. In tank fuel pump may be different but probably not.

BCM /gauges (assuming gauges look the same) can be reflashed as needed.

Really, on a car where the V8 is available (unlike Cadillac Alphas) it really would be better to sell yours/buy a V8 car. UNLESS you are doing it for insurance purposes like my father and I did on my first car (85 Fbody v6-v8 swap, insurance was less then half)

Sorry for such a late reply...


My reasoning was actually this: if a car has a V8 option available for it, that means that it wouldn't require any chassis modification/welding/fabrication which to me sounds like the hardest part of a V8 into anything swap. I guess my perspective on engine swaps is just different since i came from Hondas where swaps were just so commonplace. US Honda hatchbacks, crx's and coupes mostly came with the crappy D series engines (with a few exceptions). But donor B series engines which bolted right in were super easy to find. And you could get US B series engines as well as Japanese and even Euro.



I'm just wondering why the overall attitude is different for other cars. Drivers just not familiar/comfortable with swaps? looking at it from a mature persons perspective (ie is it smart money-wise) or if its an engine availability thing. I actually want to look into it a bit, not to do the swap but just to see how involved it is like what all parts are needed. But i probably need a SS FSM, a LTG FSM and a good GM parts site and just cross reference one another. A long time ago on my CRX swap i used all those things and came up with every single p/n for everything i needed for the swap. Even down to the misc nuts and bolts.

[wookwook]

Sorry it got to be a long read. 2 responses here.

Originally Posted by BlueShadow

I'm just wondering why the overall attitude is different for other cars. Drivers just not familiar/comfortable with swaps? looking at it from a mature persons perspective (ie is it smart money-wise) ....... etc

I look at projects and picts all the time. It looks like so much work. If I was gonna sub out the work (big buck$) it would take away that satisfaction of diy. I look and say, well if track purpose car and then I need all the supporting stuff like trailer and all that for an off road car, and do I really want that. I see advise all the time, if that just buying a solid platform in good condition is sure to be more cost effective than doing a build. You see these mecum cars and there is no way some of those builds are profitable.


Will chime in on MW. As far as my own snow kit, when the weather warms up a bit. I think the main thing is to not over think it. I am going to pull the right fender and see where the pump will place. Use the washer tank. The nozzle looks like a 4 might be the right size, they send a 3 and 5. If you go farther out you need to extend the harness and get some more silicon hose for the pressure tap. You will need more hose. I am using the 2.5 kit so the computer is in the guage which is really neat.

Taping the Mishimoto bung for the barbed map hose. Need another bung strategicly placed where the spray will aim at the bend on the hot side near the IC take off. Where I am assume is the most air speed and turbulence to mix and evaporate the spray before the latent heat reduced air passes the AIT.

I will let the AIT sensor do the rest. Currently, balancing the base spark and AIT spark to step in and do more of the AIT response. Ive already started calibration testing in the cold NE air. will observe as temps increase. Working on KR tables to test of ramps and rate of KR and false KR calibration.

I asked about merging the 2.5 guage and the 3.0 computer but its not going to work. Stock boost curve is pretty flat, and during certain driving conditions the curve does move around, so I will look at that. There is a good youtube on a mustage build its a good road review i will see if I can find it. His goal was to get off of boostane for cost. Theres no E85 here for 100 miles around. I'll do up my project for here once I get it going.


EDIT: This an after thought but my perception is that the garages are not going to offer a lot of info on their builds or enthusiastic affirmations that they will back you up, because this is totally experimental. They do not want any implications on problems and you can totally understand that reasoning. Just do a lot of reading and you will see the various statement from the vendors and the advise of other poster here. Avoid the hype. Use common sense. Expect reasonable results, but don't be disappointed.

I keep on saying HOT Side. I mean to say after IC or "cold side"? sorry about that.....confusion.







.

[BlueShadow]

Originally Posted by wookwook

Sorry it got to be a long read. 2 responses here.





I look at projects and picts all the time. It looks like so much work. If I was gonna sub out the work (big buck$) it would take away that satisfaction of diy. I look and say, well if track purpose car and then I need all the supporting stuff like trailer and all that for an off road car, and do I really want that. I see advise all the time, if that just buying a solid platform in good condition is sure to be more cost effective than doing a build. You see these mecum cars and there is no way some of those builds are profitable.

.

If i were to do a V8 swap to my 2.0 I would do a relatively stock setup, maybe with just minor bolt ons or cams. If the engine is outside of the car then thats the best time to do all that stuff rather then install the engine only to have to take it out again at a later time and then reinstall. I'm not looking to do some full race setup or a trailer car setup. And if i were to do it i would do it in my own garage and not pay some shop to do it. Because like you said it takes away the satisfaction of diy. Which is also the reason i want to do a V8 swap rather than buy a car with a V8 in it. It is a lot of work but i've been there and done all that before on different cars so its nothing new to me.

[wookwook]

acknowledged. for me personally, Today - my build would need to be street-able, hunting for 10's /130 at the tape. Sparring with Hellcats. Just my own preference. the LT5 would do that. It would be great to have a well documented conversion to anything though.

[BlueShadow]

Originally Posted by wookwook

It would be great to have a well documented conversion to anything though.

I agree with that...


Like with building computers one of my pet peeves is when someone asks "what do i need to build a PC" and someone oversimplifies the answer and says "ohh a CPU and MOBO and you're all set". And they're forgetting stuff like cables or thermal paste or all the minor stuff. With a car swap i wouldnt want to get hip deep into it only to find out that one piece or one part was missing so now i have a car out of commission for who knows how long until i get the part. Thats why a long time ago i made up such a detailed list for my old CRX swap like i mentioned in my other post like right down to the misc nuts and bolts. Come to think of it when i was working on that car i used to document and take pics of all the work i did, even including the minor details no matter how obvious it would seem to some people. Give me 6-10 years and i'll probably have a really kickass swap guide for a Camaro 2.0 > V8 hehehe.


EDIT: i wonder if thats why there are so many "just get a car with a V8 already in it" responses too because its such a mystery. If it was shown how easy/hard it is to get parts, and if the instructions for the swap are given in detail then it wouldn't be such a mystery anymore. Then people might be like "ohh, i can do all that!".

[wookwook]

Just like computers have gotten crazy sophisicated the cars have to. Its a niche thing now. With epa/rmv stuff its not going to be easy. that's why all the restomods are pre 80s. I think nh is up to 1980 model year for special build exemptions. coming from a computer guy.