Air Cleaner Mod - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

hesster · 02-21-2024, 04:43 PM

If I run a 1-1/2" pipe or hose from my Stock Air Cleaner to a Hood Scoop (ZTA Conversion Shaker Scoop), would I throw a code? Don't know how sensitive the MAF or anything else would respond to additional unrestricted air flow. The Hose would create a vacuum in the closed off scoop, and I am hoping it would be sufficient to pull open the intake flap. This is a easier and less expensive solution than trying to rig installing a solenoid controlled by vacuum or mechanical means, similar to the early Ram Air Cars.

morepowerjoe · 02-22-2024, 02:14 AM

Anything that you do after the maf sensor with will probably through a code and seriously hurt performance, as like you said unmetered airflow. Even before the maf sensor could possibly through a code as well. You can try it but I would be ready to take it off. And as from a performance standpoint sorry to say but I don't believe it will do anything.

102SS · 02-22-2024, 04:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by morepowerjoe

Anything that you do after the maf sensor with will probably through a code and seriously hurt performance, as like you said unmetered airflow. Even before the maf sensor could possibly through a code as well. You can try it but I would be ready to take it off. And as from a performance standpoint sorry to say but I don't believe it will do anything.

Yup it would be like a giant vacuum leak.

hesster · 02-22-2024, 09:17 AM

Thanks Guy's - I need to be more explicit. With Pics.
The ZTA Shaker is a molded piece open in the back, and came with the insert and a flapper. Whatever means to make that operational via a vacuum Solenoid or whatever is no longer part of the Kit, so I want to try Vacuum from the stock Air Box first.
There is a 1-1/2" round "Port" already on the Air Box Cover, blocked off , Pic 1.
So I would cut it open, and run a pipe to a hole I woud cut in the bottom side of the Scoop. And run a pipe connecting them, Pic's 2 &3. Pic 3 shows the plumbing with a small hose for illustration purposes.
In Pic 2, any air flow would still be pulled down through the Air Filter into the Intake Tube past the MAF into the TB. So essentially, it would just be some amount of additional air coming from the Scoop.
Got to figure out if this would even be sufficient to move the Flapper, and would the vacuum increase ith RPM? I would think so. IF 1-1/2" Dia Pipe is insufficient, I would fab something lke I found on the Web, Pic 4.

FasNuf · 02-22-2024, 04:47 PM

I dont think adding a pipe there will cause problems because the air is still metered past the MAF. As far as getting a minimal amout of better airflow, the Long Term Fuel Trims will fix it. Wether it will even open the cowl depends how hard it is to open in the first place.If there's more restriction to opening than what the air filter box has the air filter might win that fight. Guess you'll have to try.

gtstorey · 02-22-2024, 05:16 PM

I don't think the juice will be worth the squeeze. A 1-1/2 hose several feet long with several direction changes isn't going to move enough air to do any good. I would be surprised if the hood scoop is even in an area of high pressure air. You would probably be better off with one of the "cold air scoops" that pull air from below the bumper.

gtstorey · 02-22-2024, 05:18 PM

I just looked back at your pictures. With the scoop backwards, you will probably get air going the other direction if air moves at all. The discussion of removing the cowl gasket for heat escape indicated that was definitely a low pressure area.

FasNuf · 02-22-2024, 05:20 PM

I think he's wanting to keep that T/A shaker look. ( oh there was an edit. sorry gt)

OP--If you want the cowl to open, just use a vacuum actuator like you previously thought and connect to a vacuum source. Yea, it'll always be open when driving and closed when off or maybe big cam idle, but it'll function. EDIT: you could get a small pneumatic regulator and fine tune the opening that way.

gtstorey · 02-22-2024, 06:21 PM

Sorry, I'm used to thinking for performance not "style". Hard to say if there would be enough vacuum difference at that point to overcome any spring for the flap. I doubt it will pull enough vacuum to open it much. As soon as it cracks open it will suck as much air as the tube will carry. And even without any spring to it, it probably won't open much past a 45.

hesster · 02-23-2024, 07:06 AM

I'm inclined to agree with the various input. Specifically a small diameter hose, like 1-1/2" conected to the Air Box round port, probably is insufficient to provide enough air flow and suction to operate the flapper. It is competing with the Air Box's normal intake snorkel from the bottom, which is probably >10x the volume.
The ideal set up is to reengineer the entire Air Box and pull ALL the air from the scoop, then block off the Air Box inlet snorkel, and with a large as possible fabricated snorkel from the Box to the scoop. Like in the one pic I posted that I found on the web, but big as possible.
And ike my beloved T/A, but that conveniently almost sits right on the carb.

02-21-2024, 04:43 PM	#1
hesster Drives: '10 C5 SS, '77 Bandit T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 637 View My Garage	Air Cleaner Mod If I run a 1-1/2" pipe or hose from my Stock Air Cleaner to a Hood Scoop (ZTA Conversion Shaker Scoop), would I throw a code? Don't know how sensitive the MAF or anything else would respond to additional unrestricted air flow. The Hose would create a vacuum in the closed off scoop, and I am hoping it would be sufficient to pull open the intake flap. This is a easier and less expensive solution than trying to rig installing a solenoid controlled by vacuum or mechanical means, similar to the early Ram Air Cars. Attached Images

02-22-2024, 02:14 AM	#2
morepowerjoe Drives: 2012 Chevrolet Camaro l99 Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 2,105	Anything that you do after the maf sensor with will probably through a code and seriously hurt performance, as like you said unmetered airflow. Even before the maf sensor could possibly through a code as well. You can try it but I would be ready to take it off. And as from a performance standpoint sorry to say but I don't believe it will do anything. __________________ DSS FX Forged Pistons, Eagle ESP L19 Forged Rods, ARP Head and Main Studs, TSP PRC 260 CNC Ported Heads milled .030, Cometic .040 Head Gaskets, GPI SS3 VVT Camshaft, GM Performance Racing Lifters, CHE Trunnions , Molly Pushrods, Melling 10355HV Oil Pump, Cold Air Inductions CAI, Fast LSXR Intake Manifold, Nick Williams 103 TB, TSP 1 7/8" Longtubes with 3" TSP Exhaust, ZL1 Fuel Pump, Mishimoto Radiator, Mishimoto Oil Cooler, Tru Cool 40k Tranny Cooler, 3600 Circle D Converter, Fluid Dynamics Balancer Build Thread https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609817

02-22-2024, 09:17 AM	#4
hesster Drives: '10 C5 SS, '77 Bandit T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 637 View My Garage	Thanks Guy's - I need to be more explicit. With Pics. The ZTA Shaker is a molded piece open in the back, and came with the insert and a flapper. Whatever means to make that operational via a vacuum Solenoid or whatever is no longer part of the Kit, so I want to try Vacuum from the stock Air Box first. There is a 1-1/2" round "Port" already on the Air Box Cover, blocked off , Pic 1. So I would cut it open, and run a pipe to a hole I woud cut in the bottom side of the Scoop. And run a pipe connecting them, Pic's 2 &3. Pic 3 shows the plumbing with a small hose for illustration purposes. In Pic 2, any air flow would still be pulled down through the Air Filter into the Intake Tube past the MAF into the TB. So essentially, it would just be some amount of additional air coming from the Scoop. Got to figure out if this would even be sufficient to move the Flapper, and would the vacuum increase ith RPM? I would think so. IF 1-1/2" Dia Pipe is insufficient, I would fab something lke I found on the Web, Pic 4. Attached Images

02-22-2024, 04:47 PM	#5
FasNuf Drives: 2014 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,617 View My Garage	I dont think adding a pipe there will cause problems because the air is still metered past the MAF. As far as getting a minimal amout of better airflow, the Long Term Fuel Trims will fix it. Wether it will even open the cowl depends how hard it is to open in the first place.If there's more restriction to opening than what the air filter box has the air filter might win that fight. Guess you'll have to try. __________________ . . . . https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgN...etl17hA/videos

02-22-2024, 05:20 PM	#8
FasNuf Drives: 2014 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,617 View My Garage	I think he's wanting to keep that T/A shaker look. ( oh there was an edit. sorry gt) OP--If you want the cowl to open, just use a vacuum actuator like you previously thought and connect to a vacuum source. Yea, it'll always be open when driving and closed when off or maybe big cam idle, but it'll function. EDIT: you could get a small pneumatic regulator and fine tune the opening that way. __________________ . . . . https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgN...etl17hA/videos

02-22-2024, 05:16 PM	#6
gtstorey Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 2,155	I don't think the juice will be worth the squeeze. A 1-1/2 hose several feet long with several direction changes isn't going to move enough air to do any good. I would be surprised if the hood scoop is even in an area of high pressure air. You would probably be better off with one of the "cold air scoops" that pull air from below the bumper.

02-22-2024, 05:18 PM	#7
gtstorey Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 2,155	I just looked back at your pictures. With the scoop backwards, you will probably get air going the other direction if air moves at all. The discussion of removing the cowl gasket for heat escape indicated that was definitely a low pressure area.

02-22-2024, 06:21 PM	#9
gtstorey Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 2,155	Sorry, I'm used to thinking for performance not "style". Hard to say if there would be enough vacuum difference at that point to overcome any spring for the flap. I doubt it will pull enough vacuum to open it much. As soon as it cracks open it will suck as much air as the tube will carry. And even without any spring to it, it probably won't open much past a 45.

02-23-2024, 07:06 AM	#10
hesster Drives: '10 C5 SS, '77 Bandit T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 637 View My Garage	I'm inclined to agree with the various input. Specifically a small diameter hose, like 1-1/2" conected to the Air Box round port, probably is insufficient to provide enough air flow and suction to operate the flapper. It is competing with the Air Box's normal intake snorkel from the bottom, which is probably >10x the volume. The ideal set up is to reengineer the entire Air Box and pull ALL the air from the scoop, then block off the Air Box inlet snorkel, and with a large as possible fabricated snorkel from the Box to the scoop. Like in the one pic I posted that I found on the web, but big as possible. And ike my beloved T/A, but that conveniently almost sits right on the carb. Attached Images