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Old 07-19-2020, 03:15 PM   #29
Joshinator99


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokedad View Post
I have the 8 speed auto. I was on Highway that was not ideal for a great launch, and just smashed the throttle straight down. I was basically giving the tire the worst scenario with no prep. I would say they performed much better than the Goodyear radials I had. I am guessing with a little roll, heating the tires, or throttle control they will hook up with no spin.
Yeah, I’ve got the first version and they hook nicely...enough to snap my stock driveshaft...lol
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Old 07-19-2020, 05:50 PM   #30
cmitchell17

 
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Originally Posted by Joshinator99 View Post
Yeah, I’ve got the first version and they hook nicely...enough to snap my stock driveshaft...lol
You broke your driveshaft with the whipple? I am hearing of more and more driveshafts breaking and its scary especially with the limited aftermarket support. I guess you have stock rear end gears and stock 8L90?

I am not sure the hard parts are breaking in them? I think it the crappy center support that clunks and clanks around when you go from drive to neutral to reverse and back to drive.

Anyway, I hoping by staying with the stock 275 size maybe it will help with stability, the sidewalls of the 305s I have here feel very good like any other tire so hopefully there won't be a loss of stability in corners.

Another thing it seems like we have to do is get a flat zero camber angle. Mine is maxed out at -0.9 degrees on both sides, it is enough camber you can tell by the way my current tires have worn that the tread has less depth in the insides of the back tires. I think I am going to have to get a adjustable aftermarket upper control arm to get flat, both alignment places have told me there's nothing they can do to get it any flatter?
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Old 07-19-2020, 05:59 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by cmitchell17 View Post
You broke your driveshaft with the whipple? I am hearing of more and more driveshafts breaking and its scary especially with the limited aftermarket support. I guess you have stock rear end gears and stock 8L90?

I am not sure the hard parts are breaking in them? I think it the crappy center support that clunks and clanks around when you go from drive to neutral to reverse and back to drive.

Anyway, I hoping by staying with the stock 275 size maybe it will help with stability, the sidewalls of the 305s I have here feel very good like any other tire so hopefully there won't be a loss of stability in corners.

Another thing it seems like we have to do is get a flat zero camber angle. Mine is maxed out at -0.9 degrees on both sides, it is enough camber you can tell by the way my current tires have worn that the tread has less depth in the insides of the back tires. I think I am going to have to get a adjustable aftermarket upper control arm to get flat, both alignment places have told me there's nothing they can do to get it any flatter?
Yeah, I was at the track (stock motor, 3.5” pulley on the Whipple) and it was well prepared. Snapped where the center carrier bearing is. Swapped it out for the GForce 3.5” aluminum one and its smooth as silk. Haven’t had a chance to go back to the track with the new combo yet, but I also added the GForce Outlaw axles too just to be safe.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=564610

Another part to get is the BMR Lockout Kit. Fantastic addition, keeps the rear planted with no noticeable difference in NVH.
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Old 07-19-2020, 06:36 PM   #32
cmitchell17

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshinator99 View Post
Yeah, I was at the track (stock motor, 3.5” pulley on the Whipple) and it was well prepared. Snapped where the center carrier bearing is. Swapped it out for the GForce 3.5” aluminum one and its smooth as silk. Haven’t had a chance to go back to the track with the new combo yet, but I also added the GForce Outlaw axles too just to be safe.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=564610

Another part to get is the BMR Lockout Kit. Fantastic addition, keeps the rear planted with no noticeable difference in NVH.
When you are not moving and switch from drive to reverse and drive to neutral and neutral to reverse is there still a loose/rattle/cheap noise? If you don't know what I am talking about put your car in drive and load the drivetrain with a little gas while on the brake and not moving, then put it in neutral and you will know what I am talking about. I believe its the stock driveshaft at the carrier bearing moving up and down, when you load it and then release it, it bounces up and down at the center and makes the worse sounding cheap noise that makes the car sound like a cheap POS.

It's my understanding that the 2 piece driveshaft setup with the rubber carrier/isolator (I don't think it does any bearing duties) is made like that to try to absorb high speed (highway driving) vibration that is inherent to a lot of cars like that and for some reason they can't just balance it out. So you would think going to the one piece GeForce the vibration would come back at highway speeds but if you say its smooth then that's good.

It's funny GM would go to these lengths and make a crappy center bearing to get rid of this vibration that hardly anyone may not even be able to notice and I probably wouldn't care, but in order to do this they introduce this horrible cheap/POS sounding rattle/clunk. The ATS 2.0 turbo Cadillac I drove did the same thing, you would have think they would have put something more expensive into the Cadillac to fix this problem, although it wasn't as bad as the Camaro, but I know the SS Camaro has a lot of harder parts for stability and handling performance that don't absorb a lot of this NVH.
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Old 07-20-2020, 06:02 PM   #33
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So I'm glad I waited for the 275s. They fit very good from what it looks like to me. The 275 NT05s I had before in the 275 were a lot more narrower looking. So far I haven't gotten them to break loose on a 1st gear downshift at 20mph.

Problem is now the stupid TCM is doing the 1-2 short shift thing now that it has traction and is not spinning. People say they think it is because 1st gear is so short there is not enough time, which may be true given that it just downshifted from say 5th or 6th gear and it might not have the clutch packs filled or something. I just don't know why it can shift 1 to 2 with the tires spinning which revs up faster than with traction, but now when I think about it, it may be because it has just downshifted into 2nd from a higher gear and might not think it can shift right at redline since it dosent know if it will make it fast enough, so it just goes ahead and shifts for safety? I need to try WOT from a stop to see if it does it then.
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Old 07-20-2020, 08:21 PM   #34
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Here is the best I could do. I'm a little disappointed since I thought I could be in the low 3 range, but I haven't tried lower pressures in the tire yet. It is really humid out.

I was also hoping launch control would work correctly but something is making it sort of bog sometimes, it seems to have started after I swapped my cam and heads but I did not alter virtual torque that much and I have completely tuned my VVE. Once it gets past about 10 mph or so it seems to work and actually lets the tires spin a little more than normal traction control would allow. I got the best run by leaving traction control on and going 100% throttle from a stop.

Its interesting because during normal traction control the drive axle control source is indicated as "chassis" which I take to mean the Chassis Control Module is intervening and determining the torque allowed from the traction control system, but when looking at the logs when I do the "launch control" it says the source is "RPM Limit" so I'm not sure what module is responsible for the regular SS "dumb" launch control feature. Either way I think something needs to be adjusted better since I've swapped my cam to make the LC function like stock. I know a lot of people bash it and say they can do a better job with there feet, but i'm not so sure you can beat modern sensors and electronics.

I think by far what makes the biggest difference besides tires being the number 1 difference, is a good clean surface. So that means find the newest paved road you can, I think it also makes a difference on what kind of asphalt it is. A older paved surface is worn out with a rough surface and also has a lot of loose gravel on it which obviously can't help.
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Old 07-21-2020, 01:41 AM   #35
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Thank you for keeping us posted with regards to the performance of this tire. It seems like this tire is keeping you busy.
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Old 07-21-2020, 08:59 AM   #36
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I have recently read that these 555rII run about a 1/4" wider then the original 555r. So for those reading this thread you might consider the 295/35/20 instead of the 305/35/20 on a stock wheel.
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Old 07-21-2020, 10:57 AM   #37
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I have recently read that these 555rII run about a 1/4" wider then the original 555r. So for those reading this thread you might consider the 295/35/20 instead of the 305/35/20 on a stock wheel.
Nice catch King.
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Old 07-21-2020, 06:26 PM   #38
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Also looks like these don't have a "wheel rim protector" but I've never actually seen one of these things on a tire work, I think if your going fast enough and hit something to mess up the wheel, its probably going to go straight through the extra rubber.

Does anyone know why they would have made them wider looking and where they added material at? The tread pattern looks like same at the regular 555R's.

So far I don't notice any more subjective "floaty" "sway" feeling when cornering side to side.

What tire pressure do you run at the track on these? On what pressure did you run on your 3.4 0-60 runs? I reset my tire pressure indicator not to come on until 19 psi and it will let me go down even more, but I believe at this pressure they might get kind of "swayey" body roll kind of feeling, but I know they will probably heat up faster.
Also what is your rear camber at? I really wish I could go to zero degrees and see if that helps or anyone think its not going to effect much?
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Old 07-21-2020, 06:47 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by cmitchell17 View Post
Also looks like these don't have a "wheel rim protector" but I've never actually seen one of these things on a tire work, I think if your going fast enough and hit something to mess up the wheel, its probably going to go straight through the extra rubber.

Does anyone know why they would have made them wider looking and where they added material at? The tread pattern looks like same at the regular 555R's.

So far I don't notice any more subjective "floaty" "sway" feeling when cornering side to side.

What tire pressure do you run at the track on these? On what pressure did you run on your 3.4 0-60 runs? I reset my tire pressure indicator not to come on until 19 psi and it will let me go down even more, but I believe at this pressure they might get kind of "swayey" body roll kind of feeling, but I know they will probably heat up faster.
Also what is your rear camber at? I really wish I could go to zero degrees and see if that helps or anyone think its not going to effect much?
I’m running my NT555R (v1.0) at 22 psi at the strip if memory serves. Best 60’ I’ve had so far is 1.59 which I didn’t think that was bad. Run 30 psi on the street but our roads don’t let me get anywhere near the good launches King gets on the street.
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Old 07-22-2020, 07:03 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmitchell17 View Post
Also looks like these don't have a "wheel rim protector" but I've never actually seen one of these things on a tire work, I think if your going fast enough and hit something to mess up the wheel, its probably going to go straight through the extra rubber.

Does anyone know why they would have made them wider looking and where they added material at? The tread pattern looks like same at the regular 555R's.

So far I don't notice any more subjective "floaty" "sway" feeling when cornering side to side.

What tire pressure do you run at the track on these? On what pressure did you run on your 3.4 0-60 runs? I reset my tire pressure indicator not to come on until 19 psi and it will let me go down even more, but I believe at this pressure they might get kind of "swayey" body roll kind of feeling, but I know they will probably heat up faster.
Also what is your rear camber at? I really wish I could go to zero degrees and see if that helps or anyone think its not going to effect much?
How do you set the TPMS to not give a warning until a lower pressure?
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Old 07-22-2020, 05:29 PM   #41
cmitchell17

 
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Originally Posted by TheRealJA105 View Post
How do you set the TPMS to not give a warning until a lower pressure?
This is the cheapest way:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133447226511

This tool emulates a GM MDI GDS2 scan tool. It's pretty buggy like you would expect but it runs the same GM software as the dealer does but you have to run it in a virtual machine and getting the driver's and stuff to communicate can be a PITA, but anyway there is a option to set when the warning comes on in the GDS software.
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Old 07-25-2020, 09:44 PM   #42
cmitchell17

 
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So after trying to launch it a few times and lowering the pressure down to 20 psi, the outside tread feels like its getting rough (like a true race compound does) however it also feels really dirty too like its catching a bunch of stuff in the tread. It seems like grip is going down as well. I am just really reluctant to try a burnout before a launch just because I can feel the money flying out the window.

Another thing about this too I have noticed is the tire squeal is a lot louder, and there is also a lot more wheelhop which I think is a really bad thing for multiple reasons. For one I think the traction control will reduce power more than it needs when there is more "slip-stick"/wheelhoping going on. Another thing too is its a lot harder on parts.

All in all I was really hoping to dead hook or at least get close to it. I know everyone probably things thats impossible on the street. From my observations I can dead hook down to around 20 mph, below that you get to much converter slip and therefore extra torque and it breaks them loose.
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