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Old 01-21-2017, 06:52 PM   #15
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Just a thought... but when they check the torque at several different HPDE's they always torque the lug nuts to 100 Ft. Lbs.
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Old 01-21-2017, 07:37 PM   #16
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Just a thought... but when they check the torque at several different HPDE's they always torque the lug nuts to 100 Ft. Lbs.
My guess is it's because they don't have a manual for each car that comes through and at least they can confirm they're A) snug,and B) even all the way around. being even all around is probably more important than the being at the exact torque # (obviously the torque would have to be at least a reasonable number, 100 arbitrarily seems ok!)
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Old 01-21-2017, 08:30 PM   #17
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My guess is it's because they don't have a manual for each car that comes through and at least they can confirm they're A) snug,and B) even all the way around. being even all around is probably more important than the being at the exact torque # (obviously the torque would have to be at least a reasonable number, 100 arbitrarily seems ok!)
^ What he said.
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Old 03-08-2017, 04:38 PM   #18
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140 ft lbs is insane for a 5 lug car, especially considering the size of the wheel studs and nuts.

100 ft lbs for me, every time. The first time I ever took the wheels off of the car when it had 15 miles on the odometer, I cracked them loose with my torque wrench which was set to 90. They DEFINITELY were not at 140.
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Old 03-08-2017, 08:18 PM   #19
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140 ft lbs is insane for a 5 lug car, especially considering the size of the wheel studs and nuts.

100 ft lbs for me, every time. The first time I ever took the wheels off of the car when it had 15 miles on the odometer, I cracked them loose with my torque wrench which was set to 90. They DEFINITELY were not at 140.
Why not just go by the owners manual for everything? GM engineered the car to perform safely and effectively using the specifications communicated in the owner's and service manuals. The bolted hub joint has a specification of 190 N-m for a reason - probably not an arbitrary number. I'm guessing it's that high to prevent torque loss in the wheel/hub/bearing joint when exposed to the high forces it can have from braking, accelerating, and cornering.

Mine came from LGR factory with an average of 185 N-m breakaway torque on all the lugs. So pretty close to the spec of 190 N-m and probably the difference between my calibrated torque wrench and the factory tightening method.
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Old 03-13-2017, 08:23 PM   #20
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Coming from a mag seat style lug nut on my Lex (75 ft lbs), I'll have to remember this for when I get myself an 1LE. And I'll have to get a larger torque wrench as well!
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:39 AM   #21
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Coming from a mag seat style lug nut on my Lex (75 ft lbs), I'll have to remember this for when I get myself an 1LE. And I'll have to get a larger torque wrench as well!
I was worried I would have to do the same. Was glad to see my Snap On actually goes up to 250. You can borrow mine when the time comes since you seem to live just down the road from me.
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:54 AM   #22
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This is the wrench I use. 250lb limit so 140 is nothing, no elbow grease required.
...I just use body weight with the same kinda leverage...
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:56 AM   #23
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These are the exact same size studs I have on my Dodge 2500 4WD Cummins. Torque spec from Chrysler is 140 lb./ft. Pretty sure they are same on a Silverado.

Having said that, at my last HPDE, I rechecked the lugs after the first outing (they were torqued to 140 cold) and 2 were loose. I left the torque wrench @ 140 and re-tightened. One tightened up, but I stripped the threads on the 2nd one. I won't be using 140 when they're hot anymore. Probably 110 max.
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:19 AM   #24
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I was only going to 100 ft. lbs. because on my 8 second race car it was 130 ft. lbs. so I thought it would be way less on a stock car.
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:43 AM   #25
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Just to be clear, torque specs are not arbitrary. If the engineers say the bolted joint needs 140 ft*lb, there is a reason for it. Using less torque than a bolted joint is designed for can lead to loosening, fatigue, and failure. Be sure to apply the correct torque with the specified lubricant (or lack of lubricant), otherwise you will under/over torque and have potential issues as well.

Source: I design products containing bolted joints for a living.
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:53 AM   #26
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These are the exact same size studs I have on my Dodge 2500 4WD Cummins. Torque spec from Chrysler is 140 lb./ft. Pretty sure they are same on a Silverado.

Having said that, at my last HPDE, I rechecked the lugs after the first outing (they were torqued to 140 cold) and 2 were loose. I left the torque wrench @ 140 and re-tightened. One tightened up, but I stripped the threads on the 2nd one. I won't be using 140 when they're hot anymore. Probably 110 max.
I know this is old but since it's already been revived...

You tightened them when they were pretty hot still I assume? It's far easier to break/strip a lug stud at 600 degrees F than at 100 degrees...

I never tighten hot lugs unless I'm running a real bolt/stud/etc (ARP/etc)
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Old 11-02-2018, 09:08 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Goldfish View Post
Just to be clear, torque specs are not arbitrary. If the engineers say the bolted joint needs 140 ft*lb, there is a reason for it. Using less torque than a bolted joint is designed for can lead to loosening, fatigue, and failure. Be sure to apply the correct torque with the specified lubricant (or lack of lubricant), otherwise you will under/over torque and have potential issues as well.

Source: I design products containing bolted joints for a living.


Thank you. Nothing bugs me more than when people randomly decide that the torque spec should be something other than what the manual specifies.
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Old 11-02-2018, 09:14 AM   #28
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Thank you. Nothing bugs me more than when people randomly decide that the torque spec should be something other than what the manual specifies.
And lots of other stuff, because (insert auto mfg'er conspiracy theory here).
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