Oil Analyst results. Thoughts???

[TRC-SS]

Im probably just asking for more stress in my life by posting this. But wondering what other guys have seen as an oil analyst after a major rebuilt.

Motor is fully forged LS3 with approximately 2,500 miles on New motor. New Cam with SLP Supercharger. During Break in was running 10w-30 VR1 Oil. Changed at 500 miles then 1000 miles. Then changed again at 1700 due to winter storage and changed it to full synthetic 0w-40 Mobil 1. Oil analyst was taken with about 2,600 miles on motor right before this winter storage and the results are as below.

Blackstone labs reporting Higher volume that normal of Copper, Aluminum and Iron. Motor does have a mild piston slap when cold due to forged Pistons and clearanced cylinder walls, but goes away when warm.

Thoughts?

[TRC-SS]

anyone?

[SquawkVFR]

First I’d switch to Royal Purple high performance street, soon or after the next oil wash.

You don’t mention who built it, if it’s home built, I dunno, otherwise seek guidance from your builder as well.

I don’t see anything to worry about just yet. Wait until you’re over around 5000+ miles of good clean fun to start worrying.

[TRC-SS]

Originally Posted by SquawkVFR

First I’d switch to Royal Purple high performance street, soon or after the next oil wash.

You don’t mention who built it, if it’s home built, I dunno, otherwise seek guidance from your builder as well.

I don’t see anything to worry about just yet. Wait until you’re over around 5000+ miles of good clean fun to start worrying.

Motor was professionally built by speed shop. However ran into a few issues prior bending 2 connecting rods. After motor was rebuilt was having a lean issue for 1st 1,000 miles on motor. Took the car to a different shop for retune. No more issues but the oil analyst. So kinda in a catch 22 as far as motor goes.

[StreetRage320]

I agree with you that it is something I would watch closely.

I assume the motor was broken in per the builder's specifications?

What filter are you using?

[TRC-SS]

Originally Posted by StreetRage320

I agree with you that it is something I would watch closely.

I assume the motor was broken in per the builder's specifications?

What filter are you using?

Yes I would assume. I use a Wix Filter.

The only thing is I do have a moderate piston slap when cold due to the forged pistons and clearanced cylinder walls. But goes away with temp.

[StreetRage320]

wix xp?

how/where did you extract your oil sample?

using the cellulose Wix will have higher particle counts than a Wix XP synthetic.

[TRC-SS]

Originally Posted by StreetRage320

wix xp?

how/where did you extract your oil sample?

using the cellulose Wix will have higher particle counts than a Wix XP synthetic.

Ive been using the Wix XP for synthetic Oils.

My sample came from mid stream when draining the oil.

[StreetRage320]

well IMO you have done everything correctly, the sample should be an accurate reflection of the metal in your oil. Hopefully Squawk is right and the samples will clean up by 5k..

Best of luck! that car is a beast!

[TRC-SS]

Originally Posted by StreetRage320

well IMO you have done everything correctly, the sample should be an accurate reflection of the metal in your oil. Hopefully Squawk is right and the samples will clean up by 5k..

Best of luck! that car is a beast!

I hope so. Thanks

[TRC-SS]

This is a close up picture of the oil from the same sample in my drain pan.

In the first oil changes I definitely saw metal as it would be normal with a new build. This time though I didn’t see anything. No glitter at all. So was surprised to see this anayiss come back the way it did. And no I didn’t cut the filter open at the time.

[asand1]

Copper is the scariest. If any bearings are actually down to copper it's done.

[TRC-SS]

Originally Posted by asand1

Copper is the scariest. If any bearings are actually down to copper it's done.

Yea that would be bad but I'm not showing any signs of a bad bearing. I do have a piston slap upon cold start up due to forged internals but goes away when motor warms up. No ticking or knocking while at operating temp. My oil pressure is perfect, no drop off and no abnormal usage of oil.

[wakespeak]

Copper can be from sealants, cam bearings, or a new oil cooler. Crank bearings are bi-metal I thought now (steel/aluminum). I think you are still breaking in. Compare on www.bobistheoilguy.com. You'll find silicon is a big factor in making metal (dirt from poor sealing or filtering), but yours looks ok at 11 ppm.

Don't lug the engine IMO esp w/FI. I don't floor it unless over 2500 rpm and don't accelerate at all below 1500rpm to unload the bearings.

Personally I think Mobil 1 TDT (turbo diesel truck) 5w-40 is best for FI. Gasoline engine rated.