[Tex2SS]

Okay guys,

I have spent the last couple of hours reading through all of the posts regarding the wiring procedures for hooking up a Dash Cam ( and the ones for radar detectors ). I am confused as hell now. Lol

So many different people saying different things. I think that most did not realize that the 1SS and the 2SS had different wiring and most of them have the coupe I think.

I am wanting to install a Dash Cam into my 2SS Convertible that has the Motion Sensored Parking mode and I want it to be a clean install. No exposed wires running through the doorway, etc.

The Header Console would be ideal obviously if the convertible top button or Home Link buttons happen to have constant power.

Please help unscramble my brain. Anyone find a good solution with a 2SS Convertible?

Thanks,
Tex

[TnR 4ever 4ever 16 Vert]

I might be interested in a similar hook up down the road. Il try and follow this thread

[weatherman71]

i installed a dash cam in my gf's 16 2SS ill get pics soon

[1CEBITN]

Costs $65 or less to have a car audio shop tap into the appropriate spot and hide the wires. I did the same thing for my V1 radar detector because the trim piece at the top of the windshield on a vert is a PIA to get off without buying the trim tools needed and a voltmeter to figure out which wires are hot only when the car is on (same goes if you want constant power to run the cam when the car is off for parking accidents). Took them less than an hour and no wires are visible. Well worth it imho...

[Bigham39]

I was looking to buy one since I work offshore and my car staying a parking lot for weeks at a time. It would be nice to have it on during those times. I’m looking forward to see what syllogisms people have found for this. 1ss btw

[speedup]

gen5diy has a plug and play harness for radar detectors that has an extra power lead to install a dash cam.

I installed one in my 2017 2ss convertible and just left the extra leads tucked up under the cover until I found a dash cam I liked

https://www.gen5diy.com/collections/...tector-harness

[Tex2SS]

Originally Posted by weatherman71

i installed a dash cam in my gf's 16 2SS ill get pics soon

Right On, Thx.

Were you able to find switched power as well as constant power for the parking/motion detection functionality?

[Martinjlm]

I’ve been running this setup with a Thinkware F750, front and rear with parking monitor since 2017.

Had the bracket to mount the rear camera made at a local pro audio shop, so I went ahead and had them do the total installation. Since fuses are located under hood and in the trunk near the battery, there is not a really simple interior install. Not sure if they tap in under the hood or into the upper console box / Homelink.

Here’s a few photos of my install, plus a shot from each camera. Thinkware has replaced the F750 with the F800 and F800 Pro. I’m thinking of moving these two cameras to my SRX and adding F800 Pro front and rear to the Camaro.

[Martinjlm]

Here’s a link to another thread on this topic. GroundhogSS is located in Texas and has a similar setup in his 2SS Vert, so he may also be able to help you.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...ht=Groundhogss

[GroundhogSS]

I was browsing the Chevy site for accessories and noticed that they have a Thinkware camera kit, including wiring for plug and play installation. The picture shows the front and rear cameras. I assume they are both included. That's a different model than the one James and I have.


https://accessories.chevrolet.com/pr...tegoryId=12013

[unixadm]

Originally Posted by speedup

gen5diy has a plug and play harness for radar detectors that has an extra power lead to install a dash cam.

I installed one in my 2017 2ss convertible and just left the extra leads tucked up under the cover until I found a dash cam I liked

https://www.gen5diy.com/collections/...tector-harness

Does it have both constant power and ignition power leads ? I just got the Thinkware F800 dashcam, purchased the hardwire kit and it has red (ignition), yellow (constant power) and ground.

I have my radar detector wiring run under headliner, down A pillar and through the center console, connected to cigarette lighter/power outlet. That powers on with ignition which is perfect for my radar detector.

Was going to run dash cam power to same place, but then realized that the dashcam also needs constant power so it records while parked with motion sensor, impact, or time lapse while car is powered off. Need to find a constant power connection in same location...thinking of using power connections to header console if possible to get both power. FYI, I do have convertible

Any help would be appreciated.

[unixadm]

Looks like NO CONSTANT POWER going to headliner console with map lights/homelink/convertible top button/mirror

I pulled off passenger side A Pillar cover and tested the power connections in the plug that goes up to the center headliner (for map lights, homelink, convertible top lowering, mirror). Turns out that there are 4 12v power wires that go up there, 2 of them shut off immediately with ignition (from top of plug: bottom row, 3rd wire from left - Green, and 3rd wire from right - Purple) but the other two have power continuing after shutting off car and setting alarm (bottom row, far right - Yellow with brown stripe, and top down 2nd from right - Green with purple stripe).....thought "great...these must be constant power"....but no....

There is NO CONSTANT power going up to headliner from passenger A Pillar......they eventually powered down. One of the two that stayed powered after car was locked up, powered off after 10 minutes(green with purple stripe), and the other one some short time after that, maybe 15 or 20 min. (yellow with brown stripe)

I am assuming that it is a battery saving feature of shutting down things like map lights, etc after a short period of time....also, it makes sense that the homelink shuts down after a short period of time so someone can't break into your car and open your garage.

After more testing, when all power shuts down to the top headliner, the power comes back on for those two wires in the A pillar going to the top when I press the unlock button on the key fob...so that is why the lights come on when you press the key fob to unlock. The act of unlocking the car then re-powers those but that won't help me with dash cam that also has motion sensor and impact sensor for parking lots. After 10-15 minutes, the camera powers completely down and stops recording.

Guess I will have to run the power to my camera through the firewall to the engine fuse box to properly give both constant power and ignition power to the two power wires unless someone has another option they have found in the cabin.

[GroundhogSS]

If you delete the sound tube, you can go through the firewall there. Just be sure to seal the opening to keep fumes out. I ran the wires down the passenger side A pillar and punched a hole in the rubber grommet behind the door hinge. It's easy to run along the inside of the fender inside split loom tubing. Some people don't like that method because you can see the wires when the door is open, but that's not really a problem for me. I tapped the hot buss bar behind the fuse box and used a fuse tap on a switched line for the ignition power. Don't remember which one.

[Tex2SS]

Originally Posted by 1CEBITN

Costs $65 or less to have a car audio shop tap into the appropriate spot and hide the wires. I did the same thing for my V1 radar detector because the trim piece at the top of the windshield on a vert is a PIA to get off without buying the trim tools needed and a voltmeter to figure out which wires are hot only when the car is on (same goes if you want constant power to run the cam when the car is off for parking accidents). Took them less than an hour and no wires are visible. Well worth it imho...

Do you know how they ran the wire for the constant power? Did they just go down the A Pillar and then around the door opening or did they go through the firewall somewhere?

I am not wanting to have visible wires anywhere, so I am hoping to find someone that has gone through the firewall in one of these verts ( without removing the sound tube, that is. ).

BTW: Called CarToys and Earmark Car Audio and they want $150-$200 to do this install for a single cam. :/