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Old 05-11-2018, 08:16 PM   #15
drfeelgood

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryephile View Post
I'd probably bite on a group buy. I'm currently running front line-level into my C-DSP6x8 and it's not great. I think the main problem overall is I also need to add the center channel, and/or make a-pillar tweeter pods; the gauge hood and stock tweeter location are both major problems for the passenger-side soundstage and overall distortion levels.

This box would let me run SPDIF into my miniDSP, giving the front-end a fighting chance to be clean.
I have the M650-GM, running fiber optic to H8 processor. H8 running to Hybrid Audio 4 channel and 5 channel amps.

I am running a quasi-active 3 way front stage with the tweet and midrange passively crossed , and midbass actively crossed through the H8. I tried to run a passive 2way front stage, but I have come to realize, I simply prefer a 3 way. So I built custom A pillars for the tweeters, firing on axis, and am using Hybrid Audio Unity 2 speakers in the OEM location off glass. Love this sound, especially for the convertible.

here's a little bit about Hybrid Audio technologies (HAT) https://hybrid-audio.com/speakers/

basically, audiophile engineer, was winning competitions using other equipment, decided to build a company with superior drivers at a better price than anything out there. The reviews about HAT are all over the place, people are winning IASCA competitions using their equipment, have been for 12 years now. You should consider them for your speaker upgrades!
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Old 06-23-2018, 02:32 PM   #16
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Hi Guys, Glad to be here !

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Old 06-23-2018, 02:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drfeelgood View Post
I have the NAV-TV unit, it works flawlessly. Absolute single most important piece of hardware in my audio setup in my ZL1. I don't think a group buy would work, not here. No offense to the audio guys here, but most aren't building real setups. most appear to be completely fine with trying line-out options and adding a woofer. most are asking what's the least they can spend on a setup. most don't want to spend more than $1000 for the entire setup. If that's the crowd you have, they prob aren't willing to get a group buy together and spend $600 on a unit (which is likely the best we would get on a group buy) like this.

I am in no way arguing that it isn't a good idea, or that the item isn't worth it... IT IS! And in my opinion, if they sold if for $1000 it would still be worth it. It's just that, based on the posts I have seen in the audio section here, not sure we could get even 10 people interested, and many of those that understand the significant benefits of this unit have already purchased it.

But it doesn't hurt to try, and I hope you are successful because it's a da*n good unit.
Thank you ! It's really nice to read such great reviews !

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Old 06-25-2018, 01:07 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NAV-TV View Post
Thank you ! It's really nice to read such great reviews !

Moni
NAV-TV / ZEN Audio
No problem... my custom guy was sweating bullets when I first brought him my ZL1, because for a while, nothing was out. But by the time I made the purchase, you guys had released the M650-GM. Understanding how difficult reverse engineering these things can be, I can't thank you guys enough for making this unit
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'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq)

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Old 06-26-2018, 11:59 AM   #19
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I'll ask you up-front to pardon my ignorance.

With this unit I would gain the ability to add a subwoofer without modification to the chimes/mics? While also leaving the existing bose system fully functional? My goal would be to add a sub and modify the existing speakers over time.

Biting off $5k-$10k in total system overhaul isn't realistic for me but if this is the piece that enables everything else then it seems like the logical place to start.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-26-2018, 12:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teer View Post
I'll ask you up-front to pardon my ignorance.

With this unit I would gain the ability to add a subwoofer without modification to the chimes/mics? While also leaving the existing bose system fully functional? My goal would be to add a sub and modify the existing speakers over time.

Biting off $5k-$10k in total system overhaul isn't realistic for me but if this is the piece that enables everything else then it seems like the logical place to start.

Thanks in advance.
In short, yes. This unit will allow complete functionality of all door dings, back up signals, etc, and you won't have to disconnect your ANC mics in the doors. You can send a flat audio signal from this device to a DSP via 2 digital outputs, or 1 analog output.

Headunit >> M650 >> (DSP optional) >> amplifier >> subs
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'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq)

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Old 06-14-2019, 05:03 AM   #21
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You can refer to the above content: https://www.allicdata.com/list.html?category_id=1425
I hope it can help you.
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Old 06-14-2019, 12:15 PM   #22
Gary H
 
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Sorry if it sounds like a dumb question, but what's wrong with an Audison Bit Ten?
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Old 06-14-2019, 01:48 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary H View Post
Sorry if it sounds like a dumb question, but what's wrong with an Audison Bit Ten?
Well I originally installed a Hertz H8. It did not have enough channels. Then I installed the Audison Bit One which is a step up from the bit ten. The problem was the high level outputs through the bit one never sounded very good as the bass would still roll off and just didn't sound great. Then the Nav Tv came out and would send a dead flat eq curve straight off the head unit. Then it is possible to properly tune a system. All about what you want. The money would be far better spent on a NAV TV or PAC instead of a Bit Ten or any other DSP trying to correct a factory eq curve and level.

Step one NAV-TV
Step two DSP for perfect tuning

For what its worth i have also used a DSR1 to take over the crappy SONY system in my F150 with great success as well.
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Old 06-15-2019, 01:26 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRed7181 View Post
Well I originally installed a Hertz H8. It did not have enough channels. Then I installed the Audison Bit One which is a step up from the bit ten. The problem was the high level outputs through the bit one never sounded very good as the bass would still roll off and just didn't sound great. Then the Nav Tv came out and would send a dead flat eq curve straight off the head unit. Then it is possible to properly tune a system. All about what you want. The money would be far better spent on a NAV TV or PAC instead of a Bit Ten or any other DSP trying to correct a factory eq curve and level.

Step one NAV-TV
Step two DSP for perfect tuning

For what its worth i have also used a DSR1 to take over the crappy SONY system in my F150 with great success as well.
Agree, great 1-2 punch. I have both the NavTV M650 and a Hertz H8.
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'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq)

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Old 06-15-2019, 04:27 PM   #25
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Thank you - so excuse my ignorance, but doesn't the Bit 10 or 1 take the factory signal and completely flatten it first before adding EQ and TC - and then sending it to the Amp?
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Old 06-15-2019, 04:50 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary H View Post
Thank you - so excuse my ignorance, but doesn't the Bit 10 or 1 take the factory signal and completely flatten it first before adding EQ and TC - and then sending it to the Amp?
so in theory, it is supposed to, but it hasn't worked perfectly .

you have to pull the signal from somewhere. There is no traditional audio signal leaving the back of the headunit like in older cars. So with the newer cars that use MOST50 , Ethernet AB, etc., you have to decode the signals, which is what the NAv-TV and PAC units do.

If you don't decode the signal, you are stuck pulling audio from a post-amplified EQ'd source leaving the amplifier going to a speaker. But this may not carry all of the information you need (chimes, prompts, etc) and then there are issues such as interference with the ANC mics in the doors.

So the best way to do this, is to use one of the decoding devices (PAC or Nav-TV), to get a full flat signal (including leveled voice commands, prompts, chimes, dings, etc) and either send that to an amplifier, or to a full DSP to further tune the audio, prior to amplifiers.
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'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq)

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Old 06-15-2019, 06:28 PM   #27
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So that makes sense now, thank you.
As I already have a Bit Ten, should I add the Nav-TV and then pass the signal to the processor, and then to the amp - I think I've understood that correctly.
Cheers
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Old 06-15-2019, 10:18 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Gary H View Post
So that makes sense now, thank you.
As I already have a Bit Ten, should I add the Nav-TV and then pass the signal to the processor, and then to the amp - I think I've understood that correctly.
Cheers
Yes, Exactly
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'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq)

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