[WhiteLightening]

You can direct swap the axles and carrier from a manual 6 into the a8 that will take you from 2.77 to 3.27, I've heard this is possible. How much of a performance gain would this net? Also how much would this cost y'all think? Would it be worth it to swap out ? How much tuning would be required? Would there be any improvement in 0-60 times and a increase or decrease in Mpg?

[Dustya]

increase in 0-60 decrease in MPG yes would require transmission tuning.

[WhiteLightening]

Originally Posted by Dustya

increase in 0-60 decrease in MPG yes would require transmission tuning.

Would swapping out the rear ends cause a decrease in MPG , due to an increase in a higher gear ratio? Also I have to tune the transmission to the new rear end gearing and the ecu as well? What all would be entailed in swapping rear enda and would be required to make the car run smoothly and without issues.

[cellsafemode]

making the rear gear ratio higher will result in higher rpms for any given speed.

Thus lower mpg. It will also lower your top speed. Though nearly nobody really would be impacted by a lower top speed in the camaro, since it would still be way over 100mph and people get weird when you start talking about going over 100mph on public roads for some reason.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

The only option si far ive seen for an upgrade without tuning is if you swap to the 2.77 SS A8 diff. Its the same exact gearing as the A8 v6, but you get the limited slip as a bonus. Mainly a swap for those of us who go on tracks or autox.

Either way plan for axles, rear end of the drive shaft or change the pinion flange side. And the diff.

Yoy can find axles for 300-500$ most diffs are around 650-1000 and the rear part of the axle or pinion flange...maybe 150.

Before someone says " its not worth it" just remember...anything is worth it, if it helps you accomplish your goal.

[WhiteLightening]

Originally Posted by cooper1965

Swapping to the manual rear diff would also give you LSD. This will help you off the line also, along with the better gear for acceleration. The manual rear diff is also a larger, stronger ring gear, and larger housing OFC. You will also have to swap out the axles as well. The 327 rear diff in the automatic 4cylinder on the other hand, is NON LSD , AND the smaller ring gear/ housing. It would not require axle swap. Tuning will be required in either option, as you will most likely bounce off the rev limiter before the trans would shift when flooring it. MPG would suffer very little for the performance gain in my opinion. I would guess only a few MPG at most.

Could bouncing off the rev limiter be avoided by tuning to shift a mili-sec early? Isn't bouncing off the rev limiter damaging for the engine?

[WhiteLightening]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

The only option si far ive seen for an upgrade without tuning is if you swap to the 2.77 SS A8 diff. Its the same exact gearing as the A8 v6, but you get the limited slip as a bonus. Mainly a swap for those of us who go on tracks or autox.

Either way plan for axles, rear end of the drive shaft or change the pinion flange side. And the diff.

Yoy can find axles for 300-500$ most diffs are around 650-1000 and the rear part of the axle or pinion flange...maybe 150.

Before someone says " its not worth it" just remember...anything is worth it, if it helps you accomplish your goal.

I don't plan on tracking my car or striping it , I just want a beastly car that can handle an overkill supercharger, or a turbocharged baby in my engine! I'm wanting to track one day I suppose when my car is ready. Mainly as of now I just want a bitchn' ride ha!
I also want better acceleration, and 0-60 times. One thing I love about this is is the performance shifting that enables itself under hard acceleration.

With a v6 manual with 3.75 gearing or the SS with 2.77 gearing..which would provide better performance, realibilty and long term endurance? Has anyone ever done this axel swap to their car?

[WhiteLightening]

Originally Posted by cooper1965

The rev limiter is there to protect your engine.
As far as tuning, you mentioned overkill.. I would start there.
2.77 gears theoretically, are better for reliability, and endurance. (anything can happen at any time though, regardless of choice)
3.27 gears are better for acceleration and 0-60 times.

One thing I hate when I drop into neutral and rev up , it only goes to 4..is there way to boot the rev limiter up to 5 so it sounds better? I want a tune that is good to drop into touring mode for long distance hauls. When I select sport mode, I don't wanna worry about MPG, all I want is performance and fast clean shifts that stay in the power band, and for my car to goto into performance shift mode more aggressively or a way to select it to stay in that shifting mode or it...

Either way, I need 3.27 gearing ha!

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by WhiteLightening

I don't plan on tracking my car or striping it , I just want a beastly car that can handle an overkill supercharger, or a turbocharged baby in my engine! I'm wanting to track one day I suppose when my car is ready. Mainly as of now I just want a bitchn' ride ha!
I also want better acceleration, and 0-60 times. One thing I love about this is is the performance shifting that enables itself under hard acceleration.

With a v6 manual with 3.75 gearing or the SS with 2.77 gearing..which would provide better performance, realibilty and long term endurance? Has anyone ever done this axel swap to their car?

to be honest, theres a few v6's with the overkill S/C already and they haven't had a need to upgrade the diff. if its something you wanna do, cool. but if you have a manual, then chances are you already have the 3.27 gears. the difference is, do you have the open diff or the LSD equipped one.

as it stands I don't think anyone has been to snap city on a diff yet. theres been plenty of axles on v8's snapped from heavy launches, but by the time you upgrade to DSS axles or a similar style company, they're good up to 1400 HP. pretty confident not many v8's will see that level of power, much less our V6's. they got two guys on the 5th gen v6 forums running boosted 800+ hp cars, and the first short coming was the transmission, which needed a hell of a tune to keep up.

the manuals have a 3.27 gearing, to make up for the lack of gearing in the 6 speed manual transmissions vs the A8 and A10 transmissions.

the automatics, including the ZL1 and ZL1 1LE have 2.77, 2.85, and 3.73 gearing. http://media.chevrolet.com/media/us/...2017.tab1.html
3.73 (manual)
2.85 (automatic – coupe)
2.77 (automatic – conv.)
first gear in the auto trans is already a 4.56 or something high near that so that the reason for the "highway" (but numerically low) gearing. this is on both the A8 and 10 speed. but its why the autos can make use of a numerically lower diff.

on the v6's and 2.0T http://media.chevrolet.com/media/us/...2017.tab1.html

3.27 (2.0L Turbo or 3.6L with manual) theres an open diff and theres a LSD version
2.77 (3.6L with automatic) this is the one I have and its open diff, no LSD

on the SS http://media.chevrolet.com/media/us/...2017.tab1.html

3.73 (manual)
2.77 (automatic) Both should be LSD equipped.

the main reason why I mention the LSD....is its not exclusively a track thing, or a drag race thing, but when you add more power to a car...the whole point is to be able to apply the power from the engine through the drivetrain, to the wheels and to the ground right? an LSD equipped setup makes sure the power is applied to both wheels. having a "bitchin ride" as dave kindig would say would kinda be hampered when you go to show off and do a burnout, but only spin one wheel. spinning one wheel would also make it more possible to damage a diff if done a lot as well.

revving too high and launching, without drag slicks, you'll just spin. with boost, you'll prob spin. with drag slicks, i'd worry about the axles more so than the diff offhand. the SS diffs are beefier size wize and I think naturally will hold up to more abuse. I've helped with diff swaps on the 5th gen before, but on the 6th gen it'll be the same thing pretty much. stuff like this has gone on since the muscle car era... the only difference is now, with ABS, if you change ratios...like 2.77 to 3.27 you'll need tuning, as the car will register as 2.77 but the wheels spinning faster at 3.27 gearing speeds, it throws off the speed sensors and the abs during braking.

as far as the car in neutral and revving to 5 grand vs 4.... that's more a feature so people DONT damage their engines. auto guys have a limit, and Id figure manual to have the same. we do live in an age now where if someone could redline their car in neutral, they'd do it, and then take it in and act like they didn't know you shouldn't do that.

if you need it there to launch, then tuning should take care of it. if not, ehhh... i'll just say not my cup of tea.

hope the info above helps. my advice, build for the future. if you are gonna do it, do it once but do it right. saves money time and headaches.

[Dustya]

Revving for launch is controlled by the torque converter stall not the computer rev limiter. You can tune out the rev limiter but you will still have a stall limit from the torque converter I believe our is around 2700 I would have to check again.. You can do so by breaking hard while in drive and holding the gas down for 1-2 seconds.. no more then that where they RPM's stop is where the stall is at.

That is why in the 5th gen auto's there are a few higher stall converters out there. I know that Tracy Lewis obtained a used transmission he is currently working on a higher stall converter however this is really only useful for launching and if you have a drag pack.. If you are on street tires there is no need for it.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by Dustya

Revving for launch is controlled by the torque converter stall not the computer rev limiter. You can tune out the rev limiter but you will still have a stall limit from the torque converter I believe our is around 2700 I would have to check again.. You can do so by breaking hard while in drive and holding the gas down for 1-2 seconds.. no more then that where they RPM's stop is where the stall is at.

That is why in the 5th gen auto's there are a few higher stall converters out there. I know that Tracy Lewis obtained a used transmission he is currently working on a higher stall converter however this is really only useful for launching and if you have a drag pack.. If you are on street tires there is no need for it.

do we flash stall to 2700? I think mine was around 22-2300 when constant.

[WhiteLightening]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

to be honest, theres a few v6's with the overkill S/C already and they haven't had a need to upgrade the diff. if its something you wanna do, cool. but if you have a manual, then chances are you already have the 3.27 gears. the difference is, do you have the open diff or the LSD equipped one.

as it stands I don't think anyone has been to snap city on a diff yet. theres been plenty of axles on v8's snapped from heavy launches, but by the time you upgrade to DSS axles or a similar style company, they're good up to 1400 HP. pretty confident not many v8's will see that level of power, much less our V6's. they got two guys on the 5th gen v6 forums running boosted 800+ hp cars, and the first short coming was the transmission, which needed a hell of a tune to keep up.

the manuals have a 3.27 gearing, to make up for the lack of gearing in the 6 speed manual transmissions vs the A8 and A10 transmissions.

the automatics, including the ZL1 and ZL1 1LE have 2.77, 2.85, and 3.73 gearing. http://media.chevrolet.com/media/us/...2017.tab1.html
3.73 (manual)
2.85 (automatic – coupe)
2.77 (automatic – conv.)
first gear in the auto trans is already a 4.56 or something high near that so that the reason for the "highway" (but numerically low) gearing. this is on both the A8 and 10 speed. but its why the autos can make use of a numerically lower diff.

on the v6's and 2.0T http://media.chevrolet.com/media/us/...2017.tab1.html

3.27 (2.0L Turbo or 3.6L with manual) theres an open diff and theres a LSD version
2.77 (3.6L with automatic) this is the one I have and its open diff, no LSD

on the SS http://media.chevrolet.com/media/us/...2017.tab1.html

3.73 (manual)
2.77 (automatic) Both should be LSD equipped.

the main reason why I mention the LSD....is its not exclusively a track thing, or a drag race thing, but when you add more power to a car...the whole point is to be able to apply the power from the engine through the drivetrain, to the wheels and to the ground right? an LSD equipped setup makes sure the power is applied to both wheels. having a "bitchin ride" as dave kindig would say would kinda be hampered when you go to show off and do a burnout, but only spin one wheel. spinning one wheel would also make it more possible to damage a diff if done a lot as well.

revving too high and launching, without drag slicks, you'll just spin. with boost, you'll prob spin. with drag slicks, i'd worry about the axles more so than the diff offhand. the SS diffs are beefier size wize and I think naturally will hold up to more abuse. I've helped with diff swaps on the 5th gen before, but on the 6th gen it'll be the same thing pretty much. stuff like this has gone on since the muscle car era... the only difference is now, with ABS, if you change ratios...like 2.77 to 3.27 you'll need tuning, as the car will register as 2.77 but the wheels spinning faster at 3.27 gearing speeds, it throws off the speed sensors and the abs during braking.

as far as the car in neutral and revving to 5 grand vs 4.... that's more a feature so people DONT damage their engines. auto guys have a limit, and Id figure manual to have the same. we do live in an age now where if someone could redline their car in neutral, they'd do it, and then take it in and act like they didn't know you shouldn't do that.

if you need it there to launch, then tuning should take care of it. if not, ehhh... i'll just say not my cup of tea.

hope the info above helps. my advice, build for the future. if you are gonna do it, do it once but do it right. saves money time and headaches.

Well that was a lot to take in, wow! I was the thinking of swapping my gears out in my A8 auto because of how , I believed it would give me LSD and higher gearing in all of the acceleration ratios.i had believed when I dropped a SC in my car I would be able to accelerate faster than a Camaro that had a SC installed as well but still stock gearing , stock rear end and transmission. So was I wrong in thinking that?
Also a LSD is like posi-trac right? Keeps both wheels spinning at the same rate...right, and from slipping?
Thank you guys for answering all my questions and helping to guide me!

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by WhiteLightening

Well that was a lot to take in, wow! I was the thinking of swapping my gears out in my A8 auto because of how , I believed it would give me LSD and higher gearing in all of the acceleration ratios.i had believed when I dropped a SC in my car I would be able to accelerate faster than a Camaro that had a SC installed as well but still stock gearing , stock rear end and transmission. So was I wrong in thinking that?
Also a LSD is like posi-trac right? Keeps both wheels spinning at the same rate...right, and from slipping?
Thank you guys for answering all my questions and helping to guide me!

Trust me ive already been doing research on it from a year ago.

With the s/c youll already get more acceleration and pull. You can switch to the 3.27 with lsd, but since it hasnt been done as far as ive seen. Gas mileage, how much more acceleration, etc is up in the air. Just make sure if you do, youre gonna be on a tire that can handle it. Many add power but waste it cause it doesnt get the ground.

Lsd basically does that. Puts power from the wheel that slip to the wheel thay grips.

[Dustya]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

do we flash stall to 2700? I think mine was around 22-2300 when constant.

No I was throwing a number up in the air it could be as low as 2300 I tested it one day and remember being surprised by it. I remember tracy saying the best way to cut times off 0-60 60ft and 1/4 mile is with a higher stall converter and back then when we were discussing when I tried it I remember it being higher then he thought.

But there is 0 development out for the torque converter except for him. We were also discussing the 3.27 gears but they are not easy to find everything is automatic that seems to be in junk yards.

Also forgive my spelling and proper grammar alot of times I am responding on my phone and auto correct takes over.