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Old 02-17-2020, 09:09 PM   #15
JCunningham


 
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according to GM Performance Motor https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/P..._Code=84341929 they are the only ones who have these right now. Said he bought all they had. He believes GM is only selling them 10 at a time.
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Old 02-23-2020, 04:21 PM   #16
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Even though i have the BMR Delrin kit on the shelf, i went ahead and ordered the gm kit. Promised my 1LE buddy a sweetheart deal on the BMR kit, but I ain't letting it go until I have the gm kit in hand!
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Old 02-23-2020, 06:51 PM   #17
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i got mine a few days ago.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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Old 02-24-2020, 11:44 AM   #18
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still want to get this but the labor $$ is crazy i heard lol
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Old 02-26-2020, 07:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCunningham View Post
yep just got my shipping notification too
Mine arrived today! JCunningham, you need to get the installation technique figured out! You have time though, I just got my car aligned so I'm going to hold until the next time I change tires. I'm doing my bushings and Hurst shifter in the same session. It's such a PITA getting these cars jacked that I try do do several tasks at once. Come to think of it, I'll probably change the fluid in my diff while I'm at it.
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Old 02-26-2020, 08:40 PM   #20
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I just saw this update, I ordered. Lets hope they still have one to send to me.
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Old 02-27-2020, 07:04 PM   #21
Joey Soul
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I am not sure that is a bad thing actually (with the exception of initial cost).

Having gone thru the process, it's a pretty intensive process, which usually requires heating up the rear cradle (potentially weakening the metal chemistry)

My performance shop opted for the more labor intensive route of sawing the rubber bushings out, rather than heating up the cradle. I was totally ok with that.

As a secondary reason, GM probably also wanted to make the price of entry steeper to protect the handling benefits of the ZL1 1LE. While the DSSV's are more track focused, the biggest upgrade to the stability and handling between the ZL1 1LE and the ZL1/SS 1LE are those solid rear cradle bushings.
I did a write up on changing them with the subframe still in the car. These dont need to be heated up into a fireball like old nissans. Its a min or 2 to melt the 3 drops of glue the put on and it pops right out
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Old 04-13-2020, 08:56 AM   #22
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Is there any increase of stiffness or sharpness when hitting bumps or potholes? Even just a little I’d like to know. I like the very plush ride on my SS and don’t want to give any of that up.
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Old 04-13-2020, 12:28 PM   #23
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none that i noticed but i have my mod in signature.
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Old 04-13-2020, 02:03 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by 6spdhyperblue View Post
Is there any increase of stiffness or sharpness when hitting bumps or potholes? Even just a little I’d like to know. I like the very plush ride on my SS and don’t want to give any of that up.
They do not alter vertical shock movements. The eliminates the lateral flexes of the rear-end.

There is no ride quality penalty whatsoever.
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Old 01-16-2021, 03:11 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by JCunningham View Post
actually its pretty easy with a 2 jaw puller impact and socket you can just push them out.
Resurrection....

Is there enough space to use the puller while the cradle is still attached?
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Old 02-20-2021, 02:40 AM   #26
JCunningham


 
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no. you have to drop the cradle so you can push the bushings out from the top.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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Old 02-20-2021, 02:45 AM   #27
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when installing the aluminum bushings. You have to install the top bushing 1st or it will not go in all the way and that will make your cradle crooked.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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Old 02-20-2021, 08:58 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by JCunningham View Post
when installing the aluminum bushings. You have to install the top bushing 1st or it will not go in all the way and that will make your cradle crooked.

So I just finished my installation of the GMPP bushing last week and I just realized I screwed up not sure if it makes a difference but you don't press the top bushing first.

The instructions say that the front bushing need the top press first but the rear the lower has to be pressed first.

I did all 4 lowers first hopefully it's don't make a difference. 😟
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