[Megahurtz]

On an NA Engine, you typically want longer intake durations and then exhaust durations that are not too much longer than the intake duration. This is because not being forced induction, you need more time for the air to ingest air while the intake valves are open.

In a supercharged engine, you don't need as long as an intake duration since the air is being forced in, but you want a longer exhaust duration to allow extra time for the additional exhaust gasses to escape. This is why you typically see cams geared for boost have a larger difference in intake vs exhaust duration and why you see NA cams typically have less of a difference in intake vs exhaust duration.

I suspect adding an LT5 cam to an LT1 would maybe shift power around a little but ultimately not be optimal and provide very little gain. The shorter intake duration will hurt power and the longer exhaust duration, in this case, wont help power.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Canyonero

Coming out of warranty, I'm looking to install a k-tech oil pump and ideally more reliable lifters.

Is the LT1 Camaro cam the same as a truck cam?

From the product description:


If this applies to our cars and we can swap with no other mods or tuning, it would be very appealing.

Not exact but close enough you wouldn't know any difference. BTR developed it as a DOD delete cam that requires no tuning. It's not a new concept, this has been a thing since DOD first appeared in the 5.3's going back to 2007.

Originally Posted by Zuberman717

Honestly i don't want to risk it no more with other aftermarket cams as i dont trust their “stock” drivability claims no more. Thats why im trying to stick with stock cam and enjoy the stock drivability.

I think you went too large out the gate is all. If I am purchasing a cam for something that is daily driver, The V220 is the largest I would go. It will drive nicer than the 225 as it works much better with the stock converter and has around 0 degrees of overlap. Don't assume all cams drive the same. Once you get around 225 degrees on the intake lobe with a 114 or tighter LSA, you are now dealing with positive overlap and a cam that wants a 800rpm idle. The V225 has at minimum +6.5 degrees of overlap and could be more since I don't know the exact spec on the exhaust lobe( used 240). That isn't ideal for the stock converter in automatics. Then you need to ideally raise compression to get some of the tip in low rpm throttle response back.

Moral of the story when cam shopping for a daily is that you want to keep overlap around 0 or slightly negative... it should drive 95% like stock with proper tuning and work great with stock converters. Positive overlap trades bottom end for more peak power. You start to lose low end and have to compensate in other areas...gears, larger stall, more compression etc.

[Zuberman717]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Not exact but close enough you wouldn't know any difference. BTR developed it as a DOD delete cam that requires no tuning. It's not a new concept, this has been a thing since DOD first appeared in the 5.3's going back to 2007.



I think you went too large out the gate is all. If I am purchasing a cam for something that is daily driver, The V220 is the largest I would go. It will drive nicer than the 225 as it works much better with the stock converter and has around 0 degrees of overlap. Don't assume all cams drive the same. Once you get around 225 degrees on the intake lobe with a 114 or tighter LSA, you are now dealing with positive overlap and a cam that wants a 800rpm idle. The V225 has at minimum +6.5 degrees of overlap and could be more since I don't know the exact spec on the exhaust lobe( used 240). That isn't ideal for the stock converter in automatics. Then you need to ideally raise compression to get some of the tip in low rpm throttle response back.

Moral of the story when cam shopping for a daily is that you want to keep overlap around 0 or slightly negative... it should drive 95% like stock with proper tuning and work great with stock converters. Positive overlap trades bottom end for more peak power. You start to lose low end and have to compensate in other areas...gears, larger stall, more compression etc.

Appreciated man. Last one, my tuner is recommending the following custom Cam Motion 219/233 118 LSA, How will the drivability be (i.e. will it surge/buck at low speeds) or will be similar to the stock cam? My car is a manual and im really hating the v225 at low speeds it surges like crazy in 1st and 2nd at low speeds below 1500rpms.

[Blackmonba6Gen]

I agree with others BTR or Katech cam for your setup. I have the Katech Torquer version in mines and daily drive it with out any issues.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Zuberman717

Appreciated man. Last one, my tuner is recommending the following custom Cam Motion 219/233 118 LSA, How will the drivability be (i.e. will it surge/buck at low speeds) or will be similar to the stock cam? My car is a manual and im really hating the v225 at low speeds it surges like crazy in 1st and 2nd at low speeds below 1500rpms.

That cam should drive really well with -10 degrees of overlap. Should be no bucking or surge and require minimal tuning to dial it in.

[Zuberman717]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

That cam should drive really well with -10 degrees of overlap. Should be no bucking or surge and require minimal tuning to dial it in.

Thanks again man. One more please, my car currently has the following installed already:

> Gaterman Lifters
> BTR 0.660 Springs
> BTR 7.85 Pushrods

Will these parts work perfectly fine with the cam you shared earlier from BTR stock profile (LT1/L86 DOD Delete cam)?

https://briantooleyracing.com/btr-ca...240006175.html

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Zuberman717

Thanks again man. One more please, my car currently has the following installed already:

> Gaterman Lifters
> BTR 0.660 Springs
> BTR 7.85 Pushrods

Will these parts work perfectly fine with the cam you shared earlier from BTR stock profile (LT1/L86 DOD Delete cam)?

https://briantooleyracing.com/btr-ca...240006175.html

The valve springs are far more than you need for a stock profile cam. The pushrods and lifters are fine. I would ask BTR about using the springs.

[6spdhyperblue]

Why are so many people still using dual springs instead of the conical for the 220 or smaller?

[Zuberman717]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

The valve springs are far more than you need for a stock profile cam. The pushrods and lifters are fine. I would ask BTR about using the springs.

Dropped them an email 2 days back but no response received yet. Tuner says it would work but again he is suggesting better to go with custom cam motion 219/233 LSA118 im just to worried that drivability will be impacted and again i would start paying for replacement cam. Im really hating the drivability with BTR v225. Anyways Im trying my best not to mess with heads and whats in there thats why trying to keep everything the same and just swap the cam.

Thanks for the help tho much appreciated

[cmitchell17]

Originally Posted by Zuberman717

Dropped them an email 2 days back but no response received yet. Tuner says it would work but again he is suggesting better to go with custom cam motion 219/233 LSA118 im just to worried that drivability will be impacted and again i would start paying for replacement cam. Im really hating the drivability with BTR v225. Anyways Im trying my best not to mess with heads and whats in there thats why trying to keep everything the same and just swap the cam.

Thanks for the help tho much appreciated

When you are talking about drivability? Are you talking about jerkiness and a feeling like you press the gas pedal down more and you don't get any increase, so you go just a little more and nothing then a little more, then all of the sudden it speeds up really fast so then you have to let off and then it slows down too much?

Or are we talking about more of a random misfire and shaky feeling from the cam?

My cam motion cam with 4 degrees of overlap will have normal combustion, meaning smooth engine operation about 900-950 rpms, once you go below that you start getting inconsistent combustion.

I think these cars have major calibration/drivability issues from the factory. A lot of people claim to fix it mechanically with throttle body modifications. Or with HP Tuners but I don't think they are getting anywhere that would solve my concerns. I see someone made a new tool I want to try out that attempts to calculate out a linear driver demand torque table for HP Tuners. If you air model is not correct in your calibration/tune from your tuner you are always going to have drivability issues with a cam.

I think a lot of people have a lot of different opinions on what drivability actually could me to each person.