Change your differential fluid!

[Shift]

We just hit 1,500 miles on the car and since the manual recommends changing the differential fluid at this point I did it last night. And I am astounded by how much metal was in it!

It looked like liquid metal pouring out with a fair amount of little shards stuck to the magnets in the plugs.

If you haven't changed it I would highly recommend you do it. I'm personally going to change it again at the next oil change.

[caverman]

+1

And use synthetic going back in. I used Royal Purple.

I've already done both Trans Oil and Rear End Oil.

[FRANK121]

How hard is it to change the manual says a dealer has to do it and Lord that would cost a fortune!

[Shift]

Originally Posted by FRANK121

How hard is it to change the manual says a dealer has to do it and Lord that would cost a fortune!

peace of cake, 30-45 minutes

[2010 Bumblebee]

Originally Posted by FRANK121

How hard is it to change the manual says a dealer has to do it and Lord that would cost a fortune!

Don't let them rip you off it's only one quart. The dealer quoted me $140. I told them it's one quart and 15 min to drain the thing. So they looked into it. So the dealer ended up charging me $66 total for the differential fluid change.

Also I pay $70 for the 8 quart synthetic mobil 1 oils change at the dealer. Don't let yours rip you off on that either.

Here is a link for some differential fluid info.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76160

[INTIMIDAT3R]

You got any pics of the metal shavings?

[Shift]

Originally Posted by INTIMIDAT3R

You got any pics of the metal shavings?

I dont, I wish I had thought to take some pics of the shavings before I wiped them off the plugs. I will how ever try to get a pic of the fluid up.

[Shift]

I would say it was comparable to this random pic I found with google




This pic doesn't really do it justice of how bad it really looks but its an idea considering clean gear lube looks like clean motor oil



It looked like mercury pouring into the can I was catching it in

[pennor]

Would somebody please tell me where in the manuals there is a recommendation to change differential fluid. I've read through the 2011 owners manual, supplimentals, and warrante manual and have only found one reference to the differential fluid at all, and that was saying how much fluid the differential holds. That reference is on page 12-3. The rear end takes 1 quart by the way.

In secition 11, starting on 11-2 all scheduled maintenance required is outlined. I don't find any reference to rear end fluid changes or manual transmission fluid changes in that section at all.

Further, on page 10-14 you will find this section titled:

Manual Transmission Fluid
It is not necessary to check the manual transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to your dealer service department and hit it repaired as soon as possible. See Recommeneded Fluid and Lubricants on page 11-6 for the proper fluid to use.

[racrx451]

I hope this isn't the reason my rear end feels like it's going out.... I haven't changed it and it has 7500 miles on it.

[Shift]

Originally Posted by pennor

Would somebody please tell me where in the manuals there is a recommendation to change differential fluid. I've read through the 2011 owners manual, supplimentals, and warrante manual and have only found one reference to the differential fluid at all, and that was saying how much fluid the differential holds. That reference is on page 12-3. The rear end takes 1 quart by the way.

Further, on page 10-14 you will find this section titled:

Manual Transmission Fluid
It is not necessary to check the manual transmission fluid level. A transmission fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to your dealer service department and hit it repaired as soon as possible. See Recommeneded Fluid and Lubricants on page 11-6 for the proper fluid to use.

In the break in section I think somewhere around page 10-10, says it recommends changing the differential fluid after the break in period if you plan on driving it competitively.

[Doc]

If anyone hasn't changed it already, change it now. I highly recommend Royal Purple Maxgear 75w90 gear oil. 1 qt will make a noticeable difference.

[ravensjeff]

Competitively is a whole lot different then normal driving. That was referring to road racing.

I ended up changing ratio to 3:70. Part of Lingenfelter mods. I'm a little surprised at the amount of metal you are talking about though. Need a mechanic input to see if its normal.

[pennor]

Originally Posted by Shift

In the break in section I think somewhere around page 10-10, says it recommends changing the differential fluid after the break in period if you plan on driving it competitively.

Thanks for the heads-up on where to find this information. The break in section begins on page 9-18 and continues on page 9-19. Just for the fun of it and because it's raining and I have time on Saturuday, I'll include it here for everyone's reading pleasure. It actually answers a bunch of other questions that come up all the time on this site. Note that the very last bullet item talkes about the rear axle fluid change and is quite specific. I put that one in red just to highlight it.

New Vehicle Break-In


Notice: Follow these guildelines during the first 2415km/1,500 miles of driving this vehicle. Parts have a break-in period and performance will be better in the long run.

• For the first 2414km/1,500 miles:
• Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops.
• Do not exceed 4,000 engine rpm.
• Avoid driving at any one constant speed, fast or slow.
• Do not drive above 176km/h (100 mph).
• Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle when the engine speed will exceed 4000 RPM.
• Do no let the engine labor. Never lug the engine in high gear at low speeds. With a manual transmission, shift to the next lower gear. This rule applies at all times, not just during the break-in period.
• Do not participate in racing events, sport driving schools, or similar activities during the break-in period.
• Check engine oil with every refueling and add if necessary. Oil and fuel consumption may be higher than normal during the first 2414 km/1,500 miles.
• To break in new tires, drive at moderate speeds and avoid hard cornering for the first 322 km/200 miles. New tires doe not have maximum traction and may tend to slip.
• New brake lining also need a break-in period. Avoid making hard stops during the first 322 km/200 miles. This is recommended every time brake linings are replaced.
• Should the vehicle be used for racing or competitive driving (after break-in) the rear axle lubricant must be replaced before hand.