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Old 04-12-2019, 08:58 AM   #1
Mick0311
 
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Z26 pads and break in procedure

Not sure I can do the break in procedure in my neighborhood. 40 mph might piss off my neighbors. LOL


Has anyone skipped it or did a partial break in with good results?
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Old 04-12-2019, 09:18 AM   #2
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You're supposed to do several 60 to 30 and 60 to 15 runs, so 40 mph isn't even going to cut it. Last time I did mine I went to a four lane road with little traffic, very early in the morning, hogging the right lane for a couple miles with my hazards on.

I know this doesn't sound overly professional, but that's the only means I was able to conjure up over here, there's way too much traffic everywhere.
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Old 04-12-2019, 09:20 AM   #3
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One of the benefits of living in the country. Country roads and no safety/smog.
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Old 04-12-2019, 09:20 AM   #4
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It's a street pad, it'll break itself in as you drive it just like every other production street car on the planet. Don't worry about it.
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Old 04-12-2019, 12:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryephile View Post
It's a street pad, it'll break itself in as you drive it just like every other production street car on the planet. Don't worry about it.
Award for worst advice given on the forum goes to...

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Old 04-12-2019, 01:01 PM   #6
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Award for worst advice given on the forum goes to...

Ok, explain how every mass production car on the planet does its pad break-in. I'll wait for you to continue making a fool out of yourself.
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Old 04-12-2019, 01:03 PM   #7
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The website states the following. (Google and a minute of reading is a good thing!)

5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you’re forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.

Then do 5 mod*erate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.
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Old 04-12-2019, 01:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airfuel View Post
The website states the following. (Google and a minute of reading is a good thing!)

5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you’re forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.

Then do 5 mod*erate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.
That is for burnishing the pads, which is only relevant for racetrack operation. Read the Owners Manual, it'll give a similar burnishing method and it clearly states it's only needed for track or racing.
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Old 04-12-2019, 01:40 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Ryephile View Post
That is for burnishing the pads, which is only relevant for racetrack operation. Read the Owners Manual, it'll give a similar burnishing method and it clearly states it's only needed for track or racing.
https://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/

Maybe I missed it? Show me something different.
All high performance pads need some type of break in. Regular car pads can get by with the grandma treatment if all you do is get groceries.
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Old 04-12-2019, 01:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryephile View Post
It's a street pad, it'll break itself in as you drive it just like every other production street car on the planet. Don't worry about it.
This is actually hard to argue with....
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Old 04-12-2019, 01:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airfuel View Post
https://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/

Maybe I missed it? Show me something different.
All high performance pads need some type of break in. Regular car pads can get by with the grandma treatment if all you do is get groceries.
The SS1LE comes with light use track pads. Break in is the same as every other car out there.

For general use pad break in really is pointless. Just don't abuse them for a couple hundred miles and you'l be fine.
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Old 04-12-2019, 02:40 PM   #12
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Ok, I'll move to the country for my brake in. LOL
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Old 04-12-2019, 03:51 PM   #13
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On the stock pads, they're much more likely to squeak if you don't burnish.

I have Z26 and didn't bother to burnish and so far no problems but I don't see the harm in following Powerstop's recs, hard stops from 40 mph isn't that hard to accomplish. Will it make a difference? Maybe, maybe not... I'll put the stock pads back in for track use anyways.
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Old 04-14-2019, 08:55 PM   #14
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Ryephile, thanks for the PM reminder that I was tasked with responding to you. I was busy doing a brake job where I just finished the fluid flush and brake burnishing procedure today.

I will reiterate some of the information that is already available from the engineers who design, validate, and support the use of brake systems. The burnishing procedure recommended at the beginning of the pad life serves to control the phenomenon at play which is the act of burnishing. Through friction and the heat generated by it, the compounds in the brake pad and rotor will infuse. The procedures described are an attempt to burnish the materials together evenly, creating a surface that will resist the negative effects of burnishing. Burnishing has just as many negative effects as it does positive. If allowed to go completely uncontrolled, it can cause cracking, "hot spotting" if the material deposits are drastically uneven, and objectively annoying things regarding performance of brakes.

All brake systems are designed to overcome the full power available of the vehicle. Some cars have 180 lb ft of torque, 455, or 650. They must also dissipate the energy of the vehicle in motion. It is all dissipated as heat. High performance brakes are more susceptible to improper burnishing because they are potentially tasked with higher loads. One might find that their Chevy Cruze has no discernible issues with brakes despite not completing a controlled burnishing procedure. But their brakes are unlikely to see the thermal loads required of a Camaro or Corvette.

There are more objective, evidence based reasons to follow the burnishing procedure for high performance brakes than there are naysayers who cannot be bothered to follow simple instructions. I prefer to follow instructions of the engineers who design, validate, and support these systems because I am one of them.
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