[BlackbeastSS2]

So I recently picked up a 2010 Chevy Silverado 1500 Service Truck to act as my Tow/Pit Crew vehicle since my plan is drag race/cars & coffee machine only. I plan on taking a few trips to visit different tracks and get to Bowling Green Kentucky for LS Fest this coming September for the first time ever.

So I have a truck now, I just need advice on which trailer to get. I was thinking of an open 16 foot low aluminum trailer. Is 16 feet enough? Will I be sorry if I get an open trailer vrs a closed car hauler? (A front stone deflector is needed for the open trailer for sure )

The truck has lots of room for tools and parts in the various bins. I plan on putting the tires up top with a custom bar of some sorts to hold and lock them down. Only a 100,000 miles on the vehicle, pretty low for a service vehicle all documented on car fax plus no accidents. Plus I wanted to stay with a Chevy truck which I achieved, it would have seemed weird towing with a Ford. I am sure some do but not me.

[Alpha1BC]

Here's a thread that should answer your question: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=553224

In summary, a 16' will work, but 18 or 20 may be better since it allows a little more wiggle room to get the weight distribution right. Will also want to make sure the trailer isn't too narrow for the car.

As for enclosed vs. open trailer, as long as you don't mind your car being out in the open when it's loaded the open trailer is much more economic. Cheaper to buy up front and cheaper to tow. Open is also easier to load assuming the car doors clear the trailer fenders.

Enclosed trailers offer the benefit if being a little more useful all around. I've used mine to sleep in on multi-day track days and can offer some shelter if you get caught in any less-than-ideal weather. However, they cost more up front and are more costly/difficult to tow due to aero load. They're also more difficult to get in/out of without the side access door because the car doors can't be opened as far. This is especially an issue to consider with the Camaro since the doors are pretty long.

[ember1205]

Trickiest part overall is being able to open the door of the car on the trailer. The U-Haul car hauler trailers (open) have a fold-down fender on the driver's side so that you can open the door easily. I don't know if this is something that would factor in for an open trailer / car hauler from major manufacturers.

For enclosed trailers, the "escape door" option would be nice... https://www.trailersuperstore.com/sh...e-escape-door/

Or

https://www.jimglo.com/enclosed-car-trailer

But it's a bit on the pricey side and I'm not sure how easy it would be to find one used. You might have to travel a ways to get one that isn't brand new and a decent deal.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Thanks both of you for your insights and info. The extra insight to using it to sleep in at the track is a great point. Cost is not a factor, just means saving up a few more months if I go enclosed. I am leaning towards a new trailer if I go open trailer because they are not that costly and if I go enclosed I would be looking for a good used one.

BTW thanks for the links.

[ember1205]

I've had a couple of equipment trailers (10k) and a couple of utility trailers (3k) over the years. I've also had a few different snowmobile trailers. The snow trailers were all bought used while the others were mostly bought new.

Used trailers can be a great way to save money, but there's a lot of due diligence that needs to be done to ensure you aren't buying into a money pit. And you have to be comfortable with what you're buying.

For example: LOTS of folks opt for torsion axles because they allow the trailer to ride a little more smoothly than one riding on leaf springs (they may also be able to ride a touch lower to the ground). That's great while they're in motion, but leaf spring suspensions generally hold up much better over time because they don't suffer the same issues as torsion axles by being left sitting. My snow trailers used torsion axles and I never had an issue. But that's because the 9 months of the year when they weren't in use they were sitting up on blocks that allowed the wheels to hang free without compressing the suspension inside the axle.

If you're buying a used trailer, you probably should immediately factor into the cost what it will mean to replace all of the wheel bearings, all of the brake shoes, and the breakaway battery. You will want to check the tires very closely for checking / cracking and may need to factor in the cost of replacing those as well.

Wiring and the operational status of the lights is always something to check closely as well. Snow trailers use a four-flat connector which provides a ground. Because they corrode from road salt, the grounding aspect of the wiring often ends up needing to rely on connectivity back to the tow vehicle through the hitch. If you connect the plug to a tow vehicle and any of the lights don't work properly, this is more work to be done...

Not saying any of this is unknown to you - just mentioning some of the key things I've learned over the years for anyone's benefit that may read this.

[rcoe]

You might want to put that truck on a scale with the box loaded as it would be when hauling.

I think if you get an enclosed trailer with a car in it behind that truck fully loaded you are going to be way over weight.

[FlukeSS]

Originally Posted by rcoe

You might want to put that truck on a scale with the box loaded as it would be when hauling.

I think if you get an enclosed trailer with a car in it behind that truck fully loaded you are going to be way over weight.

Most Class D driver's licenses allow you to drive up to 26,000lbs (This includes a 26' UHaul Truck fully loaded for example.)

So no you won't need to weigh the trailer, although the OP has a slightly bigger truck but as long as the total weight doesn't exceed 26,000lbs with the trailer and vehicle you should be fine.

The car itself is 4000lbs + trailer maybe another 1000-3000lbs. Your concern is towing capacity of the vehicle and trailer hitches.

A standard F150/1500 truck can tow up to 10,000+lbs with a 2000lbs 2" Trailer hitch/ball.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by FlukeSS

Most Class D driver's licenses allow you to drive up to 26,000lbs (This includes a 26' UHaul Truck fully loaded for example.)

So no you won't need to weigh the trailer, although the OP has a slightly bigger truck but as long as the total weight doesn't exceed 26,000lbs with the trailer and vehicle you should be fine.

The car itself is 4000lbs + trailer maybe another 1000-3000lbs. Your concern is towing capacity of the vehicle and trailer hitches.

A standard F150/1500 truck can tow up to 10,000+lbs with a 2000lbs 2" Trailer hitch/ball.

There's a lot of very good info in what you posted, but it may not all be applicable here.

- The tow capacity you're mentioning is for half ton trucks and only really started to be an actual, achievable norm for them 4-5 years ago. The OP has a truck that's quite a bit older.

- An enclosed trailer will likely come in closer to the 3k mark you mentioned, but that's bare trailer only. If any additional items like a workbench or sleeping accommodations are added, that will further increase trailer weight.

- The car will be right around the 4k mark, but is there additional weight to be considered for other items in the trailer? The OP mentioned using a rack to carry a spare set of tires, but they are likely better off being placed in the trailer because the truck will only directly carry a -portion- of their weight (tongue weight) instead of all of it.

- While the tow rating of a truck could be rated for 10k, that will almost certainly require proper use of a weight distributing hitch to ensure that some of that tongue weight gets carried by the front axle and likely assumes no cargo in the truck so that the entirety of the vehicle's suspension can carry the tongue weight (which would be in the neighborhood of 1700 lbs for a full 10k of trailer weight).

When it comes to towing, especially if you're likely to be on the higher end of your rating, I like the idea of getting the tow vehicle weighed alone, and then again with your trailer. At best, it's validation of having done everything correctly. At worst, it will uncover some things that need attention before embarking on a long trip without being as safe as possible.

[FlukeSS]

- While the tow rating of a truck could be rated for 10k, that will almost certainly require proper use of a weight distributing hitch to ensure that some of that tongue weight gets carried by the front axle and likely assumes no cargo in the truck so that the entirety of the vehicle's suspension can carry the tongue weight (which would be in the neighborhood of 1700 lbs for a full 10k of trailer weight).

Food for thought: My buddy's Dodge Ram 1500 got stuck pulling 5000lbs worth of shingles on a trailer in mud, I pulled his truck and the trailer at the same time on my 2000 Silverado Z71 without issue.

I had a 2000lbs hitch and Ball granted mostly pulling weight, but still about 11,000lbs

Guarantee you he won't be pulling much more than 8,000 lbs. And even if he added other stuff like you said he won't have a problem. I doubt balancing will be needed.

That said however, his truck isn't going to weigh much more than 8000lbs as newer trucks are 7900lbs as it is. The older trucks 2000+ are actually lighter in weight closer to 6000lbs. Not sure about 2011's.

UHAUL is a really good place to get a hitch/ball installed they know what you will need if the OP just explains to them what the maximums are.

Edit pulled off website: 2011 Silverado 1500 = 6,400 to 7,000 lbs gross weight.

But ya in general he has 2 main concerns as you said.

1. Type of Hitch/Ball
2. How much torque weight on the ball. ( Rather or not you ass end suspension sags due to to much ball weight - Which I believe means your trailer is front heavy and the weight is not distributed over the trailer axles properly)

Everything else is negligible

[ariZona28]

I have a Sloan Kwik Load 18ft and I use it to haul both of my Zs. Tows great behind my '94 1500 truck, just wish I had a bit more HP/TQ. The Z/28 fills the trailer completely but the Gen 5 cars are a bit more portly than the Gen 6s.The Z06 Vette has room to spare. When trailer shopping make sure that your cars snout clears during entry. I throw down a pair of 2X10s for added clearance on uneven surfaces.

[ZL1plumbin]

Most times the weight guidelines only apply to people that are in business using the highway to make money. (Talking about max weights for licenses etc)
Idk one person with a fifth wheel that has a CDL.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by FlukeSS

Food for thought: My buddy's Dodge Ram 1500 got stuck pulling 5000lbs worth of shingles on a trailer in mud, I pulled his truck and the trailer at the same time on my 2000 Silverado Z71 without issue.

I had a 2000lbs hitch and Ball granted mostly pulling weight, but still about 11,000lbs

Guarantee you he won't be pulling much more than 8,000 lbs. And even if he added other stuff like you said he won't have a problem. I doubt balancing will be needed.

That said however, his truck isn't going to weigh much more than 8000lbs as newer trucks are 7900lbs as it is. The older trucks 2000+ are actually lighter in weight closer to 6000lbs. Not sure about 2011's.

UHAUL is a really good place to get a hitch/ball installed they know what you will need if the OP just explains to them what the maximums are.

Edit pulled off website: 2011 Silverado 1500 = 6,400 to 7,000 lbs gross weight.

Understood... And as you mentioned, your scenario was that of only pulling weight with zero weight being carried. Tow ratings take into account a LOT of factors, though. A maximum tow capacity will account for the ability to pull certain amounts of weight up grades of certain inclines, stop that same weight while descending grades, ability to carry amounts of weight on the tow vehicle's suspension, etc. There was a marketing 'stunt' conducted a number of years ago where they used a stock Toyota Tundra to tow the space shuttle. They locked it in 4WLow to produce the torque needed to make it move and they could only proceed at a very slow pace... But it worked fine.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by ZL1plumbin

Most times the weight guidelines only apply to people that are in business using the highway to make money. (Talking about max weights for licenses etc)
Idk one person with a fifth wheel that has a CDL.

Actually, weight guidelines apply to everyone. Once you're hauling for money, things get more stringent and it isn't necessarily tied to weight (although being above certain weights could require DOT placards).

[MightyBobo]

Does this service truck even have the 5.3L in it? I had a 2008 Silverado extended cab with the towing package, and that barely was allowed up to 10000 lbs I believe, and that was with the max towing package if I recall correctly.

I would be very nervous about towing a big enough enclosed trailer PLUS car in it, especially with a bare-bones truck such as this. You even need to fix up the rear-end with a hitch and whatnot, if it even has one already underneath all of that diamond plate. I used to tow my 370Z (which is like, 600-700 lbs lighter than the ZL1 I believe) with a UHaul open car trailer (2200 lbs) - so roughly 5500-5600 lbs. I can't imagine wanting to pull 7000 lbs of car and trailer, PLUS all of your gear, with that old-arse truck.

Ill be honest, trying to use this as a tow vehicle is a head-scratcher for me.