[Justin_Swift6]

So after riding a few times with my friend who drifts his 6.2 c63 all the time, I started to try drifting these couple days lol. It’s really fun though but I do it in competition mode all the time since I still want the nannies to save me when I really get out of control, so I wanna know better about driftability in competition mode.
I can do nice 90 degree drifts and then large fish tails without feeling any nannies kicking in, or at least I didn’t know they kicked in. So my question is what kind of drifts will make me trigger nannies in competition mode? for those guys that drift in here, what mode do you use? competition mode or everything completely off (holding the button for 10 secs)?
I’d also appreciate some other tips since i just get started! Thanks in advance!

[Justin_Swift6]

come on guys just wanna know more about the limit of competitive mode, when it’s gonna kick in etc

[MrNoosNoos]

Originally Posted by Justin_Swift6

come on guys just wanna know more about the limit of competitive mode, when it’s gonna kick in etc

I've used competitive mode (sport mode, tc button twice) and I could swing it around either which way nicely. Didn't try going around things but it did some nice smokey donuts when I was stock.

[Vtor_ZL1]

competitive mode (sport mode, tc button twice) = no nannies. When it goes.. it GOES.



You need Track mode to have varying degree of nannies.

[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1

competitive mode (sport mode, tc button twice) = no nannies. When it goes.. it GOES.



You need Track mode to have varying degree of nannies.

That's not accurate based on the info in the owner's manual:

https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam...ers-manual.pdf

StabiliTrak - Competitive Driving
Mode (if equipped)
Available in Sport and Track Modes.

Competitive Driving Mode
Competitive Driving Mode and
Launch Control are systems
designed to allow increased
performance while accelerating and/
or cornering. This is accomplished
by regulating and optimizing the
engine, brakes, and suspension
performance. These modes are for
use at a closed course race track
and are not intended for use on
public roads. They will not
compensate for a driver’s
inexperience or lack of familiarity
with the race track. Drivers who
prefer to allow the system to have
more control of the engine, brakes,
and suspension are advised to turn
the normal TCS and StabiliTrak
systems on.
Caution
Attempting to shift when the drive
wheels are spinning and do not
have traction may cause damage
to the transmission. Damage
caused by misuse of the vehicle
is not covered by the vehicle
warranty. Do not attempt to shift
when the drive wheels do not
have traction.
Competitive Driving Mode allows full
engine power while the StabiliTrak
system helps maintain directional
control of the vehicle by selective
brake application. In this mode, TCS
is off and Launch Control is
available. Adjust your driving style
to account for the available engine
power. See “Launch Control” later in
this section.

[CoeusAscended]

Originally Posted by vtirocz

That's not accurate based on the info in the owner's manual:

https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam...ers-manual.pdf

StabiliTrak - Competitive Driving
Mode (if equipped)
Available in Sport and Track Modes.

Competitive Driving Mode
Competitive Driving Mode and
Launch Control are systems
designed to allow increased
performance while accelerating and/
or cornering. This is accomplished
by regulating and optimizing the
engine, brakes, and suspension
performance. These modes are for
use at a closed course race track
and are not intended for use on
public roads. They will not
compensate for a driver’s
inexperience or lack of familiarity
with the race track. Drivers who
prefer to allow the system to have
more control of the engine, brakes,
and suspension are advised to turn
the normal TCS and StabiliTrak
systems on.
Caution
Attempting to shift when the drive
wheels are spinning and do not
have traction may cause damage
to the transmission. Damage
caused by misuse of the vehicle
is not covered by the vehicle
warranty. Do not attempt to shift
when the drive wheels do not
have traction.
Competitive Driving Mode allows full
engine power while the StabiliTrak
system helps maintain directional
control of the vehicle by selective
brake application. In this mode, TCS
is off and Launch Control is
available. Adjust your driving style
to account for the available engine
power. See “Launch Control” later in
this section.

This ^ the fact Stabilitrack is slightly on and brakes the car means by default its not optimal for drifting. Its not on fully, and its not on hard enough to prevent you wrapping yourself around a tree if you lose control too hard. So do yourself and your brakes a favor, turn it all off by holding down the button 10 seconds if you're gonna drift or do donuts.

[Justin_Swift6]

Originally Posted by MrNoosNoos

I've used competitive mode (sport mode, tc button twice) and I could swing it around either which way nicely. Didn't try going around things but it did some nice smokey donuts when I was stock.

So you can do a few donuts in competitive mode without any nannies kicking in right?

[Justin_Swift6]

Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1

competitive mode (sport mode, tc button twice) = no nannies. When it goes.. it GOES.



You need Track mode to have varying degree of nannies.

I always use competitive mode in track mode cus I like the pedal feel, feels more touchy

[Justin_Swift6]

Originally Posted by vtirocz

That's not accurate based on the info in the owner's manual:

https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam...ers-manual.pdf

StabiliTrak - Competitive Driving
Mode (if equipped)
Available in Sport and Track Modes.

Competitive Driving Mode
Competitive Driving Mode and
Launch Control are systems
designed to allow increased
performance while accelerating and/
or cornering. This is accomplished
by regulating and optimizing the
engine, brakes, and suspension
performance. These modes are for
use at a closed course race track
and are not intended for use on
public roads. They will not
compensate for a driver’s
inexperience or lack of familiarity
with the race track. Drivers who
prefer to allow the system to have
more control of the engine, brakes,
and suspension are advised to turn
the normal TCS and StabiliTrak
systems on.
Caution
Attempting to shift when the drive
wheels are spinning and do not
have traction may cause damage
to the transmission. Damage
caused by misuse of the vehicle
is not covered by the vehicle
warranty. Do not attempt to shift
when the drive wheels do not
have traction.
Competitive Driving Mode allows full
engine power while the StabiliTrak
system helps maintain directional
control of the vehicle by selective
brake application. In this mode, TCS
is off and Launch Control is
available. Adjust your driving style
to account for the available engine
power. See “Launch Control” later in
this section.

yeah I figured competitive mode in sport or track should be the same except for pedal feels

[Justin_Swift6]

Originally Posted by CoeusAscended

This ^ the fact Stabilitrack is slightly on and brakes the car means by default its not optimal for drifting. Its not on fully, and its not on hard enough to prevent you wrapping yourself around a tree if you lose control too hard. So do yourself and your brakes a favor, turn it all off by holding down the button 10 seconds if you're gonna drift or do donuts.

Actually I found stabilitrack in competitive mode is really helpful while not intrusive at all. I think the freedom it gives us depends on our speeds. It will let me do nice 90 degree drifts in right turn corners and also let MrNoos do donuts, while keeping me straight when I do fishtails after drifts when I speed up. It is exactly like the cars that drift to leave car meets, except that stabilitrak always keeps me from crashing like some of them when they are doing fishtails. It also saved me big time when I was driving in competitive mode in rain one day, I was kind of testing my traction limit and gradually applying throttle at 2nd gear, then I broke traction at around 50mph and really going sideways, almost already 45 degree, then stabilitrak kicked in and pulled me back very very strong, I will definitely crash if I turned all nannies off.
So now I just kind of worrying about my rear brakes when I drift in competitive mode......

[cthompson07]

Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1

competitive mode (sport mode, tc button twice) = no nannies. When it goes.. it GOES.



You need Track mode to have varying degree of nannies.

As others have stated, you’re wrong. Competitive still has some aids kick in. If you really want them all off, you have to press and hold the traction control off button to turn TC and STM off.

[Alpha1BC]

Couple of notes on what I'm seeing here:

• Others are correct in saying that Comp mode keeps some of the nannies on. Specifically, electronic stability control (ESC) in on but traction control (TC) is off.
• Leaving ESC on while attempting to drift will fry your rear brakes. ESC works by comparing yaw rate, sideslip angle, and steering wheel angle to get an idea where the driver is trying to get the vehicle to go vs. where it's going. If you're drifting with as much slip angle as you say you are at speed, ESC is still using the rear brakes to try and straighten the car due to having counter steer. You might not feel it as much because you have the brakes fighting engine torque at the same time and it's slightly less limiting than just hitting the button once to turn TC off, but it's still there (probably saving you from over-rotating in the stuff you've been doing so far) and will eat the rear brakes much faster than if you just turn everything off.
• Sport vs. Track for comp mode will change throttle pedal mapping, steering, suspension if you have MR dampers, and engine sound if you have NPP. Throttle pedal mapping is actually less snappy in track than it is in sport. Sport has a steeper pedal slope at the start of pedal application so it makes the car feel faster (i.e., pushing the pedal 10% opens the throttle body to 30%). The problem with this is it makes the throttle tough to modulate on the track because small changes at the pedal mean larger changes at the throttle body. That's why track is closer to purely linear (10% pedal = 10% throttle body opening). It'll feel a little sluggish compared to sport if you try driving one after the other normally on the street, but it's much easier to modulate throttle on the track. As for the others, steering and damping with MR will be slightly stiffer in track vs. sport. This is done by providing less steering assist with the electric power steering and providing more damping force with the MR dampers. Engine sound will also keep the valves open in slightly broader conditions than sport, but being that much into throttle for drifting shouldn't make a difference. You can set steering, suspension, and sound settings to stay on one setting no matter which drive more you're in, but throttle mapping will always match the selected drive mode.

My 2¢ is to find a more open space to practice with all systems off (push and hold the TC switch for 5 seconds). It'll make you a better driver and save on brakes, just at the expense of more tires lol. Not to say you can't continue in comp mode, just expect to go through rear brakes faster going that route.

[MrNoosNoos]

Originally Posted by Justin_Swift6

So you can do a few donuts in competitive mode without any nannies kicking in right?

Yes I can. I did a couple of full 360s with like a 180 turn around with no issues, I also have a M6.

[Justin_Swift6]

Originally Posted by Alpha1BC

Couple of notes on what I'm seeing here:

• Others are correct in saying that Comp mode keeps some of the nannies on. Specifically, electronic stability control (ESC) in on but traction control (TC) is off.
• Leaving ESC on while attempting to drift will fry your rear brakes. ESC works by comparing yaw rate, sideslip angle, and steering wheel angle to get an idea where the driver is trying to get the vehicle to go vs. where it's going. If you're drifting with as much slip angle as you say you are at speed, ESC is still using the rear brakes to try and straighten the car due to having counter steer. You might not feel it as much because you have the brakes fighting engine torque at the same time and it's slightly less limiting than just hitting the button once to turn TC off, but it's still there (probably saving you from over-rotating in the stuff you've been doing so far) and will eat the rear brakes much faster than if you just turn everything off.
• Sport vs. Track for comp mode will change throttle pedal mapping, steering, suspension if you have MR dampers, and engine sound if you have NPP. Throttle pedal mapping is actually less snappy in track than it is in sport. Sport has a steeper pedal slope at the start of pedal application so it makes the car feel faster (i.e., pushing the pedal 10% opens the throttle body to 30%). The problem with this is it makes the throttle tough to modulate on the track because small changes at the pedal mean larger changes at the throttle body. That's why track is closer to purely linear (10% pedal = 10% throttle body opening). It'll feel a little sluggish compared to sport if you try driving one after the other normally on the street, but it's much easier to modulate throttle on the track. As for the others, steering and damping with MR will be slightly stiffer in track vs. sport. This is done by providing less steering assist with the electric power steering and providing more damping force with the MR dampers. Engine sound will also keep the valves open in slightly broader conditions than sport, but being that much into throttle for drifting shouldn't make a difference. You can set steering, suspension, and sound settings to stay on one setting no matter which drive more you're in, but throttle mapping will always match the selected drive mode.

My 2¢ is to find a more open space to practice with all systems off (push and hold the TC switch for 5 seconds). It'll make you a better driver and save on brakes, just at the expense of more tires lol. Not to say you can't continue in comp mode, just expect to go through rear brakes faster going that route.

Thanks for the clarifications man, I don’t actually care that much about brakes themselves as they can be replaced easily, I was just kind of worrying about my ABS pumps or anything like that to get fried and incur an expensive repair bill