[Sillysspeed]

Hi everyone, my Lt1 trim car will be in soon. Really considering bolting on a procharger and getting a custom tune. I like the fact that it can be bolted on in a day. Only thing is I don’t really see any impressive track times with them. How are they stacking up against the magnuson 2650 and new whipple 3.0? Was gonna do hci but I really don’t want to tear apart a new car and I don’t want loud exhaust at all. It’s just a cruiser but I’d like to be able to run atleast mid 10’s with drag pack Thoughts?

[cjperformance]

Im hopefully in the 10s at this point My 11.5 was pre-trans tune and pre-converter. It has been a world of difference with those two things on the street. Ive been doing the work myself, so its been slow progression. I have to believe its worth .5 to .75 secs and 5 mph.

Ive said it before... i contacted both maggie and whipple before i got the procharger... it was 6 to 8 month wait on those but procharger was in stock... so thats what i got. It will have more power than you need to get in trouble.

[Sillysspeed]

Thanks for the reply. Yep I’m sure you are probably in that range. I’ve been looking some more and looks like it drops around 1 second in 1/4. Drag pack and a few other tricks and it should be in the 10’s. I keep coming back to it since you can install in a day and take it off any time.

[WiggyB]

Just speaking for myself as I'm not a track guy but like to hit 600rwhp with factory internals and fueling. I have the p-1-sc-1 setup with the factory box (which I swapped out with the rotofab filter). Currently build is LT2 intake, Kooks 1 7/8 LTH w/ HF cats along with the rotofab filter and I'm currently making 566rwhp. Going back for a 306 pulley (one size down from stock with PC) and meth injection looking to get over 600rwhp which is my goal. Should surpass my goal also only running 8lbs of boost.

[LT1ornothing]

Originally Posted by Sillysspeed

Hi everyone, my Lt1 trim car will be in soon. Really considering bolting on a procharger and getting a custom tune. I like the fact that it can be bolted on in a day. Only thing is I don’t really see any impressive track times with them. How are they stacking up against the magnuson 2650 and new whipple 3.0? Was gonna do hci but I really don’t want to tear apart a new car and I don’t want loud exhaust at all. It’s just a cruiser but I’d like to be able to run atleast mid 10’s with drag pack Thoughts?

In my opinion, the transmission of your new LT1 should dictate which blower to choose. The automatics with the factory torque converter works better with top mount blowers. On the six speed Manual either blower works fine. You will need a torque converter to optimize an automatic procharger set up.
I highly suggest you thoroughly research supercharging a stock LT1. If you want it to last a while, you need to do a complete LT4 fuel system upgrade and flex fuel at minimum. Pump 93 octane is not enough octane for a supercharged LT1 with stock internals/compression. You will need to either blend e85 with 93, or you will need to buy very expensive race fuel.
Lastly, leaving the stock cats on a supercharged LT1 is not a great idea. The back pressure will not do your engine or blower any favors and you will probably toast the motor if you melt the cats.

The majority of blown up LT1s here happen when people try to supercharge their stock LT1 and fail to upgrade the fuel system and fuel octane. Some of them choose to go meth injection instead of upgrading the fuel system and eventually lose one of the pistons in the back of the motor because they did not realize that the LT1 intake manifold is a dry manifold that was never designed to equally disperse liquid fuel within it.

[Sillysspeed]

Thanks guys. Been doing more research. Definitely would upgrade to lt4 hp pump and injectors along with the boost a pump. Even if I could run 30-40% ethanol it should help tremendously. Not really a fan of methanol unless it’s the primary fuel aka m1. I’m getting the a10 but not really interested in doing a converter in a brand new car. I ran around in my 4th Gen with a 4400 stall. It’s cool and all just not really trying to go that route with the new 6th Gen

[LT1ornothing]

Originally Posted by Sillysspeed

Thanks guys. Been doing more research. Definitely would upgrade to lt4 hp pump and injectors along with the boost a pump. Even if I could run 30-40% ethanol it should help tremendously. Not really a fan of methanol unless it’s the primary fuel aka m1. I’m getting the a10 but not really interested in doing a converter in a brand new car. I ran around in my 4th Gen with a 4400 stall. It’s cool and all just not really trying to go that route with the new 6th Gen

Do a whipple or a 2650 for the A10. You will be able to leave the transmission alone and just work on your fuel system. E40 on 8 lbs you should be good to go.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by WiggyB

Just speaking for myself as I'm not a track guy but like to hit 600rwhp with factory internals and fueling. I have the p-1-sc-1 setup with the factory box (which I swapped out with the rotofab filter). Currently build is LT2 intake, Kooks 1 7/8 LTH w/ HF cats along with the rotofab filter and I'm currently making 566rwhp. Going back for a 306 pulley (one size down from stock with PC) and meth injection looking to get over 600rwhp which is my goal. Should surpass my goal also only running 8lbs of boost.

I caution you to not fall in to the meth injection trap too many broken LT1s

Invest in an LT4 fuel system Low, High, and injectors, as yours is right at the end now.

We carry everything Camaro and can help with remote custom tuning if you like.

Ted.

[WiggyB]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

I caution you to not fall in to the meth injection trap too many broken LT1s

Invest in an LT4 fuel system Low, High, and injectors, as yours is right at the end now.

We carry everything Camaro and can help with remote custom tuning if you like.

Ted.

I understand what you're saying but if I do the LT4 top 1/2 work then I'm pretty much forced to do the bottom end work. If I'm that far in may as well do heads and cam since the engine is out. I'm really not looking to do all of that at this point and just doing bolt on work right now. The meth is not so much for fueling but the cooling when in boost. With a pulley swap I figured I would need that even though I'll only be around 8-9 lbs boost. The fueling aspect is just an extra bonus to me and should accomplish the 600 goal and then some.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by WiggyB

I understand what you're saying but if I do the LT4 top 1/2 work then I'm pretty much forced to do the bottom end work. If I'm that far in may as well do heads and cam since the engine is out. I'm really not looking to do all of that at this point and just doing bolt on work right now. The meth is not so much for fueling but the cooling when in boost. With a pulley swap I figured I would need that even though I'll only be around 8-9 lbs boost. The fueling aspect is just an extra bonus to me and should accomplish the 600 goal and then some.

Maybe this will offer some clearity.

The fuel system on the engine is about a 2 hour install which will give you the support for more than 570 RWHP up to about 750 on gasoline i.e. race gas or 650 RWHP on E fuels.

The low side pump is dependent on what year and model you have some come with the ZL-1 Low side.

A JMS fuel system voltage booster is strongly recommended in either case along with tuning of the Fuel System control module if on board.

1LE have the ZL-1 low side pump but do not have FSCM.

There are fuel pump tables to adjust.

If you are trying to make more the 570 RWHP on an LT1 fuel system, then you will be relying on the meth system which is how most all of the LT1s have failed, Pretty easy to search all the failures.

If you want to rely on a fertilizer pump to supply fuel to your engine your asking for a failure.

I hope this helps.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Maybe this will offer some clearity.

The fuel system on the engine is about a 2 hour install which will give you the support for more than 570 RWHP up to about 750 on gasoline i.e. race gas or 650 RWHP on E fuels.

The low side pump is dependent on what year and model you have some come with the ZL-1 Low side.

A JMS fuel system voltage booster is strongly recommended in either case along with tuning of the Fuel System control module if on board.

1LE have the ZL-1 low side pump but do not have FSCM.

There are fuel pump tables to adjust.

If you are trying to make more the 570 RWHP on an LT1 fuel system, then you will be relying on the meth system which is how most all of the LT1s have failed, Pretty easy to search all the failures.

If you want to rely on a fertilizer pump to supply fuel to your engine your asking for a failure.

I hope this helps.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by WiggyB

I understand what you're saying but if I do the LT4 top 1/2 work then I'm pretty much forced to do the bottom end work. If I'm that far in may as well do heads and cam since the engine is out. I'm really not looking to do all of that at this point and just doing bolt on work right now. The meth is not so much for fueling but the cooling when in boost. With a pulley swap I figured I would need that even though I'll only be around 8-9 lbs boost. The fueling aspect is just an extra bonus to me and should accomplish the 600 goal and then some.

You don't have to do the bottom end when doing the fuel system....not sure where you came up with that? The stock fuel system and meth setup will have you pulling the engine sooner then upgrading the fuel system and doing things the correct way... it's been proven.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

You don't have to do the bottom end when doing the fuel system....not sure where you came up with that? The stock fuel system and meth setup will have you pulling the engine sooner then upgrading the fuel system and doing things the correct way... it's been proven.

[Sillysspeed]

Ted what race fuel you guys using?