[ProCharger]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

Hopefully it's not boosted.

Me personally am not a fan of sealed catch can's on a boosted car and I think that venturi effect of running a 3rd hose to the intake side of the procharger is a gimmick and doesn't provide enough vacuum. It sounds cool but how clogged up does your K&N filter have to be to provide adequate enough vacuum to the catch can to retain a good enough suction to efficiently let a boosted car vent?

I don't really know what you are talking about here.

I run them (and have run them for years) on cars right at 1000 wheel HP.
Never had an issue, and I have no smell, perfectly clean air filters.
And loads and loads of oil, and moisture trapped by the cans. (have to drain them)

I really like them on the LT4 and LT1 wet sump cars, since it 100% eliminates the "smell" of oil from ever entering the cabin.

[Elite Engineering]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

Hopefully it's not boosted.

Me personally am not a fan of sealed catch can's on a boosted car and I think that venturi effect of running a 3rd hose to the intake side of the procharger is a gimmick and doesn't provide enough vacuum. It sounds cool but how clogged up does your K&N filter have to be to provide adequate enough vacuum to the catch can to retain a good enough suction to efficiently let a boosted car vent?

I'm sorry, but your information is just not correct!

So, a vented system causes the following issues our FI systems address and correct. Here is a list of the negatives of a system like you run:

It only evacuates when there is vacuum from the intake manifold, which is only a small amount of running time unless it is a PD blower.

By not evacuating and removing the constantly entering contaminants it allows much of them to remain n the crankcase and contaminate the engine oil.

By venting, you allow pressure to build and release where we pull full time evacuation. That is at all modes of operation. When you do this you have parasitic power loss by the pistons having to fight on the downstroke this pressure. We assist the pistons downstroke pulling the piston down with suction vs pushing against pressure.

We aid in piston ring stability and prevent "ring flutter", while allowing pressure to build and vent creates a condition where the valves enter into rapid vibration and they cannot seal properly.

And we can go on.

Now you bring up the Venturi Effect generating vacuum as a "Gimmick"? Google search and see how wrong that statement is. You mistakenly assume the suction generated is from a "clogged filter"? The flow past the inlet barb in the intake stream generates its own vacuum: https://makezine.com/projects/giovan...enturi-effect/ It has nothing to do with air filter restriction.

And as we emulate what ALL Professional race teams have used for decades, but designed for street use and to meet emissions requirements. Can you point to a single example of any Pro teams running venting? No, it is not done. The engines are far to valuable to subject to the wear and stresses venting does.

Now, how would our system allow pressure to ever build? Even if the engine would experience a breach in the rung/piston/cylinder seal, any excessive pressure would simply release just as the breather vent on what you use, but instead of into the engine compartment with smelly oily residue (illegal in all 50 States), our simply release without restriction into the main intake air tube BUT it is also filtered and oil separated by our billet cleanside separator. So what part of each point is not far superior to a venting? All is laid out. And we welcome a civil discussion with technical data and facts, not assumptions.

Keep in mind, "Venting" was used from the earliest automobiles until the mid 1960's and the advent of the PCV system. Engines prior to positive evacuation only lasted 30-40k miles before and entire rebuild was needed due to excessive wear. After the PCV system was implemented, these same engines, using the same oils and 1000-12000 mile oil changes started lasting 100k plus miles before internal wear dictated a rebuild. That was a complete surprise to the industry as the point of the PCV system was to reduce groundwater pollution from oil dripping onto the road ways, so it took a great deal of studying what had changed. It was found that the PCV system was actually removing the combustion by-products BEFORE they could settle and mix with the oil. So, your implementing a system using technology going back to over 100 years ago.

No where is "venting" used except by tuner shops that are just making assumptions VS actual science and engineering.

[laynlo15]

I'm pretty sure mine is leaking, but only under boost (16 lbs) on the stock motor. Can it leak only under boost but not at idle. Mine happened at the track on my second pass. Luckily I had my belly pan on I had built this winter, other wise I would have oiled the track down and maybe worse into the wall. After I cleaned everything up I put it on my drive on rack an it never leaked. The only other thing that could leak up front could be the oil cooler lines.

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

When we do FI on a Gen 6 we install an LS3 crank seal up front, Or a Metco Crank case breather.

GM changed the design for the Gen6 Likely to reduce drag, and it's very weak like tissue paper, Sneeze and it blows out.

Ted.

Just installed my maggie kit last weekend and swapped to the ls3 seal per Ted's recommendation. The ls3 part is much more robust than the tissue thin lt1 part. It is obvious when comparing the two parts that the ls3 will be able to contain far more pressure. Swapping seals adds 5 bucks and 5 minutes to a FI installation. Imho it would be crazy not to swap. I will admit, however that if ted had not recommended this it would not have occurred to me as i had no idea how flimsy the stock seal was

[oneredry]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

Just installed my maggie kit last weekend and swapped to the ls3 seal per Ted's recommendation. The ls3 part is much more robust than the tissue thin lt1 part. It is obvious when comparing the two parts that the ls3 will be able to contain far more pressure. Swapping seals adds 5 bucks and 5 minutes to a FI installation. Imho it would be crazy not to swap. I will admit, however that if ted had not recommended this it would not have occurred to me as i had no idea how flimsy the stock seal was

well crap. wish I would have known this good info prior to doing my install.

[misterjaayy]

What’s involved in swapping the seal if the blower has already been installed?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by misterjaayy

What’s involved in swapping the seal if the blower has already been installed?

R&R the balancer

[Inkedmongo]

Anyone happen to have a part number for the LS3 front seal being used to upgrade on the LT1 when going FI install?

Also any information on a proper catch can and breather w part number would be awesome.

Sorry, just being a humble sponge for information since I do my own wrenching.

[Jhunsberger]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

Just installed my maggie kit last weekend and swapped to the ls3 seal per Ted's recommendation. The ls3 part is much more robust than the tissue thin lt1 part. It is obvious when comparing the two parts that the ls3 will be able to contain far more pressure. Swapping seals adds 5 bucks and 5 minutes to a FI installation. Imho it would be crazy not to swap. I will admit, however that if ted had not recommended this it would not have occurred to me as i had no idea how flimsy the stock seal was

Same here! Doing a whipple install and gathering the final pieces to prep for the install. Thanks to this forum and the expertise of Ted at JRE I also purchased the LS3 seal to install.

[Jhunsberger]

Originally Posted by Inkedmongo

Anyone happen to have a part number for the LS3 front seal being used to upgrade on the LT1 when going FI install?

Also any information on a proper catch can and breather w part number would be awesome.

Sorry, just being a humble sponge for information since I do my own wrenching.

Call up Kris G at JRE 203-753-7223, and he will quickly ship you what you need, they are awesome there.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Jhunsberger

Call up Kris G at JRE 203-753-7223, and he will quickly ship you what you need, they are awesome there.

Thank you very much.

[L78toLT1]

I guess I have taken the belt and suspenders approach; I’ve got the LS3 seal and the Metco breather. Is there any history of rear seal issues on FI 6th gens? I wonder if there is an alternate rear seal that is better suited to FI applications? I’m sure as hell not going to pull the tranny and swap mine out, but it would be good to know for future reference. It’s inevitable that I will be replacing the clutch at some point and if there’s a better seal I would certainly want to swap it in at the first opportunity.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

I guess I have taken the belt and suspenders approach; I’ve got the LS3 seal and the Metco breather. Is there any history of rear seal issues on FI 6th gens? I wonder if there is an alternate rear seal that is better suited to FI applications? I’m sure as hell not going to pull the tranny and swap mine out, but it would be good to know for future reference. It’s inevitable that I will be replacing the clutch at some point and if there’s a better seal I would certainly want to swap it in at the first opportunity.

We have not seen any issues with Rear Mains.

[EDFHOBBIES]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

The slightest crank case pressure can blow the seals out even without any piston ring land failure.

To answer your question Yes Piston failure causes seals to blow and not the other way around.

Ted.

Do the eforce kits come with anything to vent the crank case pressure?

If not what would work and be the easiest setup so that the pressure can escape?

On my LS3 w eforce I got a lot little oil leaks after about 50k miles..