[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by rorymick

Nui I'm not seeing fuel % dilution in your UOA included in your tribology test, correct?

I was curious to see what your UOA would look like in regards to fuel in the oil.

With ALS i just found out its usually only noted if there is a problem with the oil sample... unless specifically asked for. To be honest ive never requested it due to ive never had any excessive wear of any metals or any issues/cautions noted in the results.

Given that ive never had any excessive wear in any of the last 3 vehicles, and have had catch cans installed to catch most of the blowby which would cause the dilution, never thought to request it to be honest.

Close to an oil change soon. I can do so if you really want to see.


I mainly use my UOA's as one would use a dyno. Just a tool to see if there are any changes internally. Specifically wear changes. If there was any heavy or above normal fuel dilution in the oil, like enough to where the cylinder walls are washed down with fuel to cause extra wear on the walls and rings, it would be picked up as a caution for metals being high.

Unless youre looking for it for any other specific reasons. Either way i can ask on the next change.

Good article on it....http://oil-synthetic.com/2017/02/22/...-on-an-engine/

For me im still on stock gm tune and parameters, so if 2.4% or less is ideal, generally, im prob that or less given no cels or issues.

[cellsafemode]

Fuel tends to evap out of the oil so you usually end up with a reading that is not representative of what's in the car (even if you take all the proper precautions in acquiring the sample for fuel dilution analysis). The wear metal numbers are what matters anyway and dont have the same problems with measurement.

So if those are good, then the fuel dilution numbers dont matter. Except to your wallet over time.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Just a small update, I finally sold the Mishimoto can... just threw it on ebay for 50$ shipped. one thing I noted before cleaning it the last time... there started to be rust internally. not sure which area it was coming from, but it as there. not that theres any moving parts to be concerned with, but it can give a false sense of what is trapped and condensed.

the other thing that I felt was missing, was the scrubbing media. I get the tab was basically it... then the condensed liquid falls below the circular grate, and anything that was reheated to a gas, was to be finally scrubbed by the bronze micron filter. my filter kinda gummed up both times which needed cleaning. so if you run this can (its personal preference) then make sure to remove the filter or run some carb cleaner through the housing area that the filter side is on.


Since running the Elite can solo, everything has been good. only have had one empty and the contents inside were the yellow water looking content with opaque white stuff inside. theres only been about 5ml so far, however since I've concluded the test, and removed the mishimoto can I haven't been to the track yet. a few hard pulls to bed some brakes and test some parts here and there, but nothing severe yet. gonna let the next check go for the full oil change span (so from oil change to oil change). one of the top features Im diggin is the larger can. gives more room for the condensation to take place, but for those of us that are gonna do 30-40K per year (already at 60K), you don't always get around to checking everything. life happens. so the larger can gives you some breathing space if you don't empty it per avg oil change (3-5k). my oil changes are FAR longer than that on most changes with the oil I run.

Just some updates. theres been a lot of stuff I've added over the last few months, so just making rounds.

[Dustya]

Thanks for your continued updates.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by Dustya

Thanks for your continued updates.

trying to keep things updated. between the brake upgrade, pad upgrade, diff and bushing lockouts, moreno camber plates... I have a lot to write that's been on my mind along with life. getting there though. hope alls well with ya!

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Mini Update: So the restrictor in the barb, fell out at some point. possibly when at the dealer as they removed some hoses when I was there to get a oil level sensor wire looked at.

For the 3rd connection, outlet on the can, you have to tap into a constant vacuum source. but it shouldn't be allowed to flow at full open. remember its only a small orifice to flow constant. this is just for the times when the PCV closes, but allows for vacuum to always be present.

Now to note, I noticed when it was gone, but it took about a week and a half to find a solution. I used a plastic 1/4 npt -18 thread barb, which is in the manifold now. the little tabs that sockets come on, that are attached to the plastic tree... I plugged it with that and drilled the proper 1/16th inch hole. its also plastic welded around the sides after I shaved it down to be the exact width as the top of the barb



this keeps the plastic socket holder in place, sealed, and able to flow the correct amount of vacuum, and not overdo the need.




with that out of the way, I wanted to see what I could do with the original brass one. I have two, so figured to put em to use as spares, or if someone else has a need for one on the LGX.


I took the original brass one, tapped it with a 5/16 - 18 pitch tap, then installed a 5/16 bolt in it. its a brass bolt, so I can now finish the solder around the edges. I basically did a spot solder (weld) to keep it in place, and then drilled the center of the bolt with a 1/16th bit.




next I'll take the diamond grind wheel and shave the width off the screws head, to match the width of the top of the barb.




in the end it will be basically a brass plug, drilled like a vented allen cap head screw (where I got the idea from) inserted into the brass barb, and no where to go, in or out. its hard to find cap head or button head allen screws in 5/16-18 pitch. there's plenty of 1/4 -20 pitch out there, but even on amazon its slim pickins.

the plastic route is prob the quickest and cheapest though.

[Joker75]

Just a quick question regarding the install of the fitting into the intake manifold. Did you remove the throttle body, or take any other precautions to prevent the plastic shavings, from drilling and tapping the manifold, from being pulled through the engine?

I have the CSS installed, but was missing the flow restrictor and a couple of the fittings, so I haven't been able to get the catch can installed, yet. I'm hoping to have the missing parts today, and would like to get the catch can install completed as soon as possible.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by Joker75

Just a quick question regarding the install of the fitting into the intake manifold. Did you remove the throttle body, or take any other precautions to prevent the plastic shavings, from drilling and tapping the manifold, from being pulled through the engine?

I have the CSS installed, but was missing the flow restrictor and a couple of the fittings, so I haven't been able to get the catch can installed, yet. I'm hoping to have the missing parts today, and would like to get the catch can install completed as soon as possible.

i personally didn't. you can however remove the TB. don't feel its needed though.

I drilled most of the way through, then put grease on the tip of the drill bit for the final punch through. didn't have any issues. its the same way we used to drill cast iron exhaust manifolds so that it would catch the iron shavings from going down through a catalytic converter.

plus, drill bits by design, pull material outward away from the drilling area, so it wasn't much concern.

[Joker75]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

i personally didn't. you can however remove the TB. don't feel its needed though.

I drilled most of the way through, then put grease on the tip of the drill bit for the final punch through. didn't have any issues. its the same way we used to drill cast iron exhaust manifolds so that it would catch the iron shavings from going down through a catalytic converter.

plus, drill bits by design, pull material outward away from the drilling area, so it wasn't much concern.

Cool. Thanks for responding. I'm working on getting my catch can installed.

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[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by Joker75

Cool. Thanks for responding. I'm working on getting my catch can installed.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

as long as im not at work, the ring, racing, or the gym...I try to respond as quick as possible.

if ya run into any snags, post up... im flying east coast to west coast over the next 24 hours, so i'll have lots of free time.

[Joker75]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

as long as im not at work, the ring, racing, or the gym...I try to respond as quick as possible.

if ya run into any snags, post up... im flying east coast to west coast over the next 24 hours, so i'll have lots of free time.

I got the clean side separator installed, but was missing some fittings from my kit, do I haven't been able to get the catch can installed. I still need to pick up a fitting for the venturi valve, so as soon as I find one of them, I'll get everything completed. Best of luck on your trip. I haven't been on a plane since I changed jobs almost 16 years ago.

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