09-20-2016, 01:24 PM | #15 |
Let's go fishing!
Drives: a car with 8 cylinders Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Seabrook, Texas
Posts: 1,129
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Ha! You beat me to it!
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"When choosing between two evils, I always like to try the one I’ve never tried before." Mae West 1892-1980
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09-20-2016, 01:29 PM | #16 |
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I just realized your in Rochester - what track? I was at NYIRP Friday night. That's where I used to run my Camaro. I'd definitely ask them again about a factory stock 'vert - they may be ok with it if it's stock-ish. If you're looking for somebody to go down with some time let me know, I might try to make another trip this year, it's a 90 minute drive for me from Weedsport.
With regards to the burnout - if it's automatic it's really easy, just like flipstyledsm22 said, you can hold it right there with the footbrake and create as much smoke as you want.
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09-20-2016, 01:37 PM | #17 | |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Convertible Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 671
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09-20-2016, 01:47 PM | #18 | ||
GPI Sales Consultant
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I'd be happy to show you a brake stand some time, you have the right idea. Initiate the burnout, then move from the clutch to the brake with your left foot. It takes a little practice, but it's really not that hard. Here is an old video of me slaying some tires in the previously mentioned Z/28 Vert using the technique described. I rolled ahead quite a bit there, but I was just playing around, if you get to the brake more aggressively you can pretty much hold your position with 1-2' of rollout. Honestly, at the track, I don't use any brake at all. If you go to the thread I linked to you'll see me spin the tires on the way out of the water box enough to clean them up and put just a touch of heat to them. You can hear in the video I'm just burping the throttle to keep them going, I could easily grab the brake and hold the car if I wanted, just wasn't trying for that much heat.
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GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph.
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09-20-2016, 01:52 PM | #19 |
if you ask for permission, they will cite the book. 13.49 and quicker requires roll bar for verts.
if you show up and tell tech you've never been or hoping to break 14's, they'll let you run once if you hit under 13.5 then they normally warn you. you can continue to practice launches and technique, just let off at the end if you're going to break 13.5.. most tracks will just continue to warn you if you're right around the marker. but if you ask them in an e-mail they don't know if it is an audit, they will respond with by the book standards. ON paper a vert does 13.5 or quicker, in person could change. i say, go out there and give it a try, if you're around 13.5 on your first pass let them warn you then let off near the finish next runs. you can get a pretty usable calculation from the 1/8th time & trap speed.
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Robert
12.012 @ 115.75mph DA: 2371 | 486rwhp/467rwtq (11/8/2015)M 11.265 @ 123.55mph DA: 2318 | 526rwhp/532rwtq (11/19/2016)M 10.722 @ 132.21mph DA: 850 | 645rwhp/581rwtq (12/3/2017)M 10.609 @ 130.19 DA: 975 | 675rwhp/629rwtq (2/16/2020)D Build: E-Force w/ 3.25" pulley (11lbs of boost), 10% OD under pulley, Fore Dual Fuel System, ID850's, AEM CAI, Borla Long Tubes, Flowmaster Super 10's, Circle D 3200 converter 258mm triple disc lockup, cam 226/242 116+4 LSA, ZL-1 Rear end, E85 & BRC Raceworks Tune (previously known as CMS) Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/c/RobertMitchellRCM |
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09-20-2016, 02:14 PM | #20 |
Drives: 2012 2ls RS V6 Auto Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Southern Alberta
Posts: 86
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Tracks are different. And they are independent. That means they don't have to adhere strictly to NHRA (or whatever association) guidelines. And those guidelines are minimums, although it's usually easier to just keep the same rules in place all the time. Your track requires a roll bar. My track requires helmets on all drivers and passengers even though it's not required unless you run a certain time. They may also be based on the tracks insurance which could want safety gear for everyone.
I do agree that you should just show up and they'll probably let you ride. My first "tech" was asking me if I did anything to the car. I said no, and he told me to go ahead. Didn't check anything. My last one was "pop the hood and start the car." Only checking to see if my battery was secured. Which is strange because my battery is in the trunk. But the point is that you're running stock, you're likely not to do anything horrible. If you do decide to race, start normal, then after you get the general idea play around with different things. I started with all nannies on and my reaction time was .600-.700 (with .000 being perfect at my track) turned TC off and it immediately dropped my reaction time by more than half. I got a best of .125. Just be careful, you'll see what you run, then see something unexpected blow you away (my case it was a daily driver chevy truck. A work truck. Running less than 10 seconds.) And you'll want to spend even more money making your car faster. Oh, and there's that whole wanting to win thing as well. |
09-20-2016, 03:42 PM | #21 | |
Let's go fishing!
Drives: a car with 8 cylinders Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Seabrook, Texas
Posts: 1,129
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Quote:
__________________
"When choosing between two evils, I always like to try the one I’ve never tried before." Mae West 1892-1980
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09-20-2016, 10:05 PM | #22 |
Drives: 2012 Orange 2SS/RS Convertible Join Date: May 2016
Location: Saint Louis, Mo.
Posts: 227
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2 more things. I checked at my track and if you run less than 13.5 in a vert you need a roll bar. I ran a best of 13.6. Also if you are that inexperienced with the manual I bet you won't break the 13.5 . At my track you can race until you hit the mark where you are too fast. Then they tell you to slow it down, or go home and put a roll bar on it.
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