and we still have no brakes

2ndgenz28 · 03-15-2012, 11:45 AM

and we still have no brakes, only thing that happens, when in my stone drive way, the rears will lock up n drag and thats it.

Everything is new under the hood and up front, but the front brakes don't work right. BUT EVERYTHING IS NEW AAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH im gonig nuts here.

did I say everything is new???

*CamaroSpike23* · 03-15-2012, 12:48 PM

sounds like you've got brakes if its locking up...lol

what car is this for?

2ndgenz28 · 03-15-2012, 12:59 PM

86 Firebird

2ndgenz28 · 03-15-2012, 01:04 PM

Ive gone through gallons of fluid, flushing and bleeding.

rears will lock and release as normal, the front just don't do much of anything unless you lean on it hard.

but everything is new, I only have new parts to replace with new parts.

it all happened about 5 years ago, brakes started to go to crap. changed rotor n pads, no change, change calipers n master cylinder, no change, changed booster and prop valve no change, all new rubber and hard lines, no change.

Every summer I mess with it some then give up, being a stick I can just downshift to stop decent. But I won't let the GF or her kids ride in it that way.

Camaro21 · 03-15-2012, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2ndgenz28

Ive gone through gallons of fluid, flushing and bleeding.

rears will lock and release as normal, the front just don't do much of anything unless you lean on it hard.

but everything is new, I only have new parts to replace with new parts.

it all happened about 5 years ago, brakes started to go to crap. changed rotor n pads, no change, change calipers n master cylinder, no change, changed booster and prop valve no change, all new rubber and hard lines, no change.

Every summer I mess with it some then give up, being a stick I can just downshift to stop decent. But I won't let the GF or her kids ride in it that way.

It sounds like you have a bad Proportioning Valve or you didn't bleed them in the right sequence.

2ndgenz28 · 03-15-2012, 01:43 PM

I do have a uni disc/drum brass hotrod prop valve I could put on for a test, SInce its only 2 in and 2 out[stock is 2 in 3 out], id say the large port on the end is for the front brakes???
smaller bottom one rears?

Would I assume the top two input holes would be the same, left top in pic is rear, right top is front?

Fightinfire921 · 03-15-2012, 02:01 PM

Did you bleed the master cylinder?

*CamaroSpike23* · 03-15-2012, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2ndgenz28

Ive gone through gallons of fluid, flushing and bleeding.

rears will lock and release as normal, the front just don't do much of anything unless you lean on it hard.

but everything is new, I only have new parts to replace with new parts.

it all happened about 5 years ago, brakes started to go to crap. changed rotor n pads, no change, change calipers n master cylinder, no change, changed booster and prop valve no change, all new rubber and hard lines, no change.

Every summer I mess with it some then give up, being a stick I can just downshift to stop decent. But I won't let the GF or her kids ride in it that way.

sounds like the prop valve/manifold

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2ndgenz28

I do have a uni disc/drum brass hotrod prop valve I could put on for a test, SInce its only 2 in and 2 out[stock is 2 in 3 out], id say the large port on the end is for the front brakes???
smaller bottom one rears?

Would I assume the top two input holes would be the same, left top in pic is rear, right top is front?

with a 2 in, 3 out... IIRC, the larger one should be for the rear brakes (as it should "T" and split across to each of the rear brakes) and each of the smaller ones should be for the fronts individually.

see if this pic helps. you may have the lines run incorrectly

2ndgenz28 · 03-15-2012, 08:34 PM

no lines are right, that brass one isn't like stock so i wasn't sure. No way to mix up the lines going from a stock prop to stock prop.

Got it all done, working till I couldn't see then cracked my rear line trying to break the bleeder lose.

had to reflare several lines for standard ends, to avoid needing 999 adapter for the metric ends they had. So fingers crossed there too.

alini · 03-15-2012, 09:00 PM

How solid is the pedal? Does it feel strong and just not grabbing? You have a locked up caliper or bad brake line causing fluid not to move the caliper piston

Is it soft and not grabbing til the back?? Air in the system still, bleed the brakes again. Start first with the fittings at the master cylinder, then do rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver.

2ndgenz28 · 03-16-2012, 11:55 PM

Well I have no choice but to start over with the earliest parts I replaced, which was calipers n rotors.

I can see rotors are fine, reman calipers are $10 each so ill do it anyways.

MAC · 03-17-2012, 12:48 AM

Heres a thread on Thirdgen.Org related to brake issues. It may be of some use.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/br...al-no-air.html

03-15-2012, 11:45 AM	#1
2ndgenz28 Thread Killer Drives: All Black Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: NWO Toledo Area Posts: 4,720	and we still have no brakes and we still have no brakes, only thing that happens, when in my stone drive way, the rears will lock up n drag and thats it. Everything is new under the hood and up front, but the front brakes don't work right. BUT EVERYTHING IS NEW AAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH im gonig nuts here. did I say everything is new???

03-15-2012, 09:00 PM	#10
alini Drives: 2016 Camaro Hyper Blue 2SS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 370 View My Garage	How solid is the pedal? Does it feel strong and just not grabbing? You have a locked up caliper or bad brake line causing fluid not to move the caliper piston Is it soft and not grabbing til the back?? Air in the system still, bleed the brakes again. Start first with the fittings at the master cylinder, then do rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver. __________________ The above post is by someone who is not an expert 2005 Pt Cruiser panel Conversion 2016 2SS Camaro Hyper Blue white interior 1937 Chevy truck. Full custom. Build in work https://www.teamalini.com

03-16-2012, 11:55 PM	#11
2ndgenz28 Thread Killer Drives: All Black Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: NWO Toledo Area Posts: 4,720	Well I have no choice but to start over with the earliest parts I replaced, which was calipers n rotors. I can see rotors are fine, reman calipers are $10 each so ill do it anyways. __________________ 2013 5th Gen Firebird on order. 86 Pontiac Firebird [a work in progress] [68 Firebird hoodscoops, custom notchback[1-3 built]rear mounted tach, inverted wing] http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/v6...-all-over.html ---------------------------------------------- "In certain extreme situations, the law is inadequate. In order to shame its inadequacy, it is necessary to act outside the law. To pursue... natural justice. This is not vengeance. Revenge is not a valid motive, it's an emotional response. No, not vengeance. Punishment."

03-17-2012, 12:48 AM	#12
MAC Iroc-Z <3'r Drives: '87 5.7L Iroc-Z Join Date: May 2008 Location: Modesto, CA Posts: 392	Heres a thread on Thirdgen.Org related to brake issues. It may be of some use. http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/br...al-no-air.html __________________ "Camaro Z/28 is back. Gentlemen, Don't even bother to start your engines."

03-15-2012, 12:59 PM	#3
2ndgenz28 Thread Killer Drives: All Black Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: NWO Toledo Area Posts: 4,720	86 Firebird

03-15-2012, 01:04 PM	#4
2ndgenz28 Thread Killer Drives: All Black Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: NWO Toledo Area Posts: 4,720	Ive gone through gallons of fluid, flushing and bleeding. rears will lock and release as normal, the front just don't do much of anything unless you lean on it hard. but everything is new, I only have new parts to replace with new parts. it all happened about 5 years ago, brakes started to go to crap. changed rotor n pads, no change, change calipers n master cylinder, no change, changed booster and prop valve no change, all new rubber and hard lines, no change. Every summer I mess with it some then give up, being a stick I can just downshift to stop decent. But I won't let the GF or her kids ride in it that way.

03-15-2012, 01:43 PM	#6
2ndgenz28 Thread Killer Drives: All Black Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: NWO Toledo Area Posts: 4,720	I do have a uni disc/drum brass hotrod prop valve I could put on for a test, SInce its only 2 in and 2 out[stock is 2 in 3 out], id say the large port on the end is for the front brakes??? smaller bottom one rears? Would I assume the top two input holes would be the same, left top in pic is rear, right top is front?

03-15-2012, 02:01 PM	#7
Fightinfire921 Drives: GMC Acadia, Chevrolet Camaro Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Winter Springs FL Posts: 1,657 View My Garage	Did you bleed the master cylinder?

03-15-2012, 08:34 PM	#9
2ndgenz28 Thread Killer Drives: All Black Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: NWO Toledo Area Posts: 4,720	no lines are right, that brass one isn't like stock so i wasn't sure. No way to mix up the lines going from a stock prop to stock prop. Got it all done, working till I couldn't see then cracked my rear line trying to break the bleeder lose. had to reflare several lines for standard ends, to avoid needing 999 adapter for the metric ends they had. So fingers crossed there too.

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