[WiggyB]

Originally Posted by oldman

I wondering how the prochager with the factory box compares to the one with the air filter sticking out the back?

Honestly I can't tell the difference. I have the factory box and was told by procharger there is about a 2 psi (equating to 35 hp) loss because of all the curves that the air has to flow through. At one point I had the filter off of my old rotofab hooked up and after dynoing the car I was told it made no difference than using the factory box. So I put the original setup back. I have driven mines and a friends that has the filter over the back and no different to me. Mines just looks better.

[oldman]

2 PSI drop is no joke.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Thank you for all the recommendations guys I really appreciate it.

Zeprocks1 Please feel free to call me with any questions 203-753-7223.

I will be glad to guide you on your quest for power and reliability.

[oldman]

since you sell both superchargers and NA packages, I would be interested on your take?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by oldman

since you sell both superchargers and NA packages, I would be interested on your take?

Certainly can you be more specific?

[oldman]

The OP has really a general question but one I'm sure is asked all the time. My take is it depends and for many reasons I like NA, that said because my car is mainly a cars and coffee show piece, I like the supercharger just for the bling, I'll probably go with a hi-ram and cut hood just for the bling too. For everyday fun, drivability and usable power I really like the NA as I felt it was about the max torque / power I could use on the street and still control. I also like the sound of a high RPM V8 through LT headers and cats.

Since you done dunno hundred of these, I'm sure you have customer feedback. Of course many people justify their decisions; but I'm sure many have gone one way and the other.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by oldman

The OP has really a general question but one I'm sure is asked all the time. My take is it depends and for many reasons I like NA, that said because my car is mainly a cars and coffee show piece, I like the supercharger just for the bling, I'll probably go with a hi-ram and cut hood just for the bling too. For everyday fun, drivability and usable power I really like the NA as I felt it was about the max torque / power I could use on the street and still control. I also like the sound of a high RPM V8 through LT headers and cats.

Since you done dun hundred of these, I'm sure you have customer feedback. Of course many people justify their decisions; but I'm sure many have gone one way and the other.

In this case it would be more about my personal preference and Power Per dollar spent.

Everyone is chasing a certain power level there is no denying boost is the easiest way to get that.

NA builds above 75 additional HP start to get very expensive and head toward Race Car rather than powerful Daily driver weekend warrior especially with these LT with DOD lifters, and where the engine is glued together and the oil pump won't come off unless you pull the pan with pushes us in to total engine removal and tear down.

You can't just slide a cam in anymore.

Boosted build can have all the creature comforts at 200 RWHP higher than stock without pulling the heads.

[Dynamical]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

In this case it would be more about my personal preference and Power Per dollar spent.

Everyone is chasing a certain power level there is no denying boost is the easiest way to get that.

NA builds above 75 additional HP start to get very expensive and head toward Race Car rather than powerful Daily driver weekend warrior especially with these LT with DOD lifters, and where the engine is glued together and the oil pump won't come off unless you pull the pan with pushes us in to total engine removal and tear down.

You can't just slide a cam in anymore.

Boosted build can have all the creature comforts at 200 RWHP higher than stock without pulling the heads.

How reliable are the DOD lifters with the added power?
How much safer are the DOD lifters after turning off the AFM in your experience? Are they actually safer after turning off DOD?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Dynamical

How reliable are the DOD lifters with the added power?
How much safer are the DOD lifters after turning off the AFM in your experience? Are they actually safer after turning off DOD?

DOD lifters do not fail from power.

They fail from lack of oil changes or over revving.

So if you take care of these 2 the have been extremely reliable.

Turning off DOD prevents them from every going in to 4 cylinder mode.

Varnish causes them to stick collapsed and ticking.

Ted.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

DOD lifters do not fail from power.

They fail from lack of oil changes or over revving.

So if you take care of these 2 the have been extremely reliable.

Turning off DOD prevents them from every going in to 4 cylinder mode.

Varnish causes them to stick collapsed and ticking.

Ted.

So I’ve seen way too many instances of 2021/2022 (haven’t seen many 23’s yet but they are younger) GM trucks and suvs with lifter failure. Would you say GM’s oil life monitor or recommend oil change intervals are to blame or do you still believe it’s strictly due to owners pushing off their oil changes?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

So I’ve seen way too many instances of 2021/2022 (haven’t seen many 23’s yet but they are younger) GM trucks and suvs with lifter failure. Would you say GM’s oil life monitor or recommend oil change intervals are to blame or do you still believe it’s strictly due to owners pushing off their oil changes?

A little of Both.

Oil change monitors push the Life of the oil for EPA and Sales reasons.

Many Owners barely know how to put gas in them never mind check the oil and are too busy with facebook to change the oil on the transportation that takes them to work. End rant LOL.

[oldman]

I dropped my pan on my fist cam change, there are guys that say you can wiggle the cam gear off and then pull the cam; without taking off the pump / pan. I never tried it, I just figure it was true just I could not do it.

Since my labor is free I can see how I feel there was some good bang for the buck NA, I can see adding in labor that FI is cheaper.

Also let me add my ride is a manual and hence it is really traction limited on 220+ wear tires (heck it is traction limited on 100 wear drag radials)....

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

In this case it would be more about my personal preference and Power Per dollar spent.

Everyone is chasing a certain power level there is no denying boost is the easiest way to get that.

NA builds above 75 additional HP start to get very expensive and head toward Race Car rather than powerful Daily driver weekend warrior especially with these LT with DOD lifters, and where the engine is glued together and the oil pump won't come off unless you pull the pan with pushes us in to total engine removal and tear down.

You can't just slide a cam in anymore.

Boosted build can have all the creature comforts at 200 RWHP higher than stock without pulling the heads.

Agree... when I talked to Lingenfelter several years ago they said that they sell the Magnuson kit 10:1 over their NA package. They said it's the same cost for more power and a lot more torque with no drivability loss and that is what most want. Most enthusiasts cannot do the work themselves based on not having the ability, tools, and/or space to do it. So, you have to factor all that in.

Over the weekend I was out at the last car meet of the year and there was a guy that has a built NA 6th gen. It's a 14:1, CID heads, GPI track attack cam, Hi ram, 4500 stall car. He said he very seldom drives it anymore. While it's fast, he claimed that it was no longer any fun to drive on the street. He wants to switch to a mild build with boost.

You have provided a wealth of information on this forum especially in the early days of 6th gen development. We had some good conversation years ago. Learned a lot from you and Pray.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Agree... when I talked to Lingenfelter several years ago they said that they sell the Magnuson kit 10:1 over their NA package. They said it's the same cost for more power and a lot more torque with no drivability loss and that is what most want. Most enthusiasts cannot do the work themselves based on not having the ability, tools, and/or space to do it. So, you have to factor all that in.

Over the weekend I was out at the last car meet of the year and there was a guy that has a built NA 6th gen. It's a 14:1, CID heads, GPI track attack cam, Hi ram, 4500 stall car. He said he very seldom drives it anymore. While it's fast, he claimed that it was no longer any fun to drive on the street. He wants to switch to a mild build with boost.

You have provided a wealth of information on this forum especially in the early days of 6th gen development. We had some good conversation years ago. Learned a lot from you and Pray.

Thanks Brother always a pleasure.