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Old 02-25-2021, 07:34 AM   #43
JSH


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangkok_ZL1 View Post
Go to their site, they explain everything in detail. I actually inquired about the chiller, 1850 USD. The spacer and blanket is 600. might as well go the mile and do it right the first time IMHO. At first, I was wondering if I should do both. But after hearing all of their people's testimonies with just the chiller, I think the chiller is enough.
Are there good reports on their interchiller here?
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'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
OEM short block, LME heads/valve train, E2650.
100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O.
2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel.
4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes).
2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.
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Old 02-25-2021, 09:23 AM   #44
Z OH 6


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSH View Post
Are there good reports on their interchiller here?
Never used one on my ZL1, but I had a FI Interchillers stage 1 kit, along with spacers and blanket on my Hellcat. It would keep the IAT temps in the high 60's even on a 90F+ day, and intercooler temps would get as low as 28F. The stage 2 kit is even more effective but I didn't see the need for it.
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Old 02-25-2021, 02:33 PM   #45
JSH


 
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Originally Posted by Z OH 6 View Post
but I didn't see the need for it.
Just looking to find a few more easy hp by reducing heat and stress
__________________
'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
OEM short block, LME heads/valve train, E2650.
100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O.
2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel.
4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes).
2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.
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Old 02-25-2021, 02:55 PM   #46
Z OH 6


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSH View Post
Just looking to find a few more easy hp by reducing heat and stress

The chiller works well.
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Old 02-25-2021, 09:07 PM   #47
Alain


 
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Drives: 2016 Challenger Hellcat, 2018 ZL1LE
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Originally Posted by gtfoxy View Post
Not sure what bolts you’re talking about, but I think you’re making a bigger deal out of it than it really is. Removing those bolts is required to lift the charger up for even a CC insta.

This gal did it, I think you can handle it.
If you go to 4:30 on this video https://youtu.be/aLn_hy5pxH4 (made by a member here while installing his catch can) you'll see the bolts I'm referring to. It's the two bolts in the very back. It's hard to tell on the video but those bolts are directly under the cowl.

To install the catch can you don't need to remove those bolts or the supercharger. You just need to loosen them, elevate the supercharger a couple of inches to gain access to the diverter valve. To install the spacers and blanket the supercharger and those bolts need to come out of the car.

I installed the catch can on my ZLE and that job is nothing compared to installing the spacers and blanket.

I'm not trying to be Mr. Gloom about this install. I just want to give people as much info as possible so they can make an informed decision when it comes to either installing this themselves or paying someone to do it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JSH View Post
LOL, no, I was referring to how common blower removal/install is. I'm sure it's in Chevy's shop hours book.
Haha, now I see what you meant.

If I remember correctly, the shop manual calls for the motor to be lowered in order to gain clearance to remove those bolts in the rear. I know some people here have access to the shop manual, hopefully they'll chime in and correct me if I am wrong.

I had a similar clearance issue with those rear bolts on my Hellcat when I did the install last year. I removed the wipers, wiper motor and the cowl and had plenty of room.

I assume the Camaro would be the same, I can't see it being a big pain in the ass to remove the cowl on the Camaro. It worries me that the shop manual calls for the motor to be lowered to remove the supercharger INSTEAD of just removing the cowl.

I like this kit, my Hellcat felt peppier after I put the kit on it.

I just don't think I would have paid someone to do it. A shop would probably charge 4-5 hours to do it.....at probably close to $100/hour for labor it becomes a really expensive mod.
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2018 ZL1 1LE/Red hot

2019 Shellby GT 350R/ Oxford white/ Matte Black Stripes/ Carbon Fiber Dash/ Electronics Package #413
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Old 02-25-2021, 09:20 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alain View Post
If you go to 4:30 on this video https://youtu.be/aLn_hy5pxH4 (made by a member here while installing his catch can) you'll see the bolts I'm referring to. It's the two bolts in the very back. It's hard to tell on the video but those bolts are directly under the cowl.

To install the catch can you don't need to remove those bolts or the supercharger. You just need to loosen them, elevate the supercharger a couple of inches to gain access to the diverter valve. To install the spacers and blanket the supercharger and those bolts need to come out of the car.

I installed the catch can on my ZLE and that job is nothing compared to installing the spacers and blanket.

I'm not trying to be Mr. Gloom about this install. I just want to give people as much info as possible so they can make an informed decision when it comes to either installing this themselves or paying someone to do it.




Haha, now I see what you meant.

If I remember correctly, the shop manual calls for the motor to be lowered in order to gain clearance to remove those bolts in the rear. I know some people here have access to the shop manual, hopefully they'll chime in and correct me if I am wrong.

I had a similar clearance issue with those rear bolts on my Hellcat when I did the install last year. I removed the wipers, wiper motor and the cowl and had plenty of room.

I assume the Camaro would be the same, I can't see it being a big pain in the ass to remove the cowl on the Camaro. It worries me that the shop manual calls for the motor to be lowered to remove the supercharger INSTEAD of just removing the cowl.

I like this kit, my Hellcat felt peppier after I put the kit on it.

I just don't think I would have paid someone to do it. A shop would probably charge 4-5 hours to do it.....at probably close to $100/hour for labor it becomes a really expensive mod.
I get ya now.

With all the people installing 2650’s, I’m sure we’ll find out.
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Old 02-25-2021, 09:45 PM   #49
Alain


 
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Originally Posted by gtfoxy View Post
I get ya now.

With all the people installing 2650’s, I’m sure we’ll find out.
Good call !!!!

someone will chime in with a way to remove the supercharger without dismantling the entire engine bay.
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2016 Challenger Hellcat /B5 blue/Sepia interior/Brass Monkey Wheels/

2018 ZL1 1LE/Red hot

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Old 02-26-2021, 02:24 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alain View Post
Good call !!!!

someone will chime in with a way to remove the supercharger without dismantling the entire engine bay.
Honestly with the cost involved of the items discussed I’d probably put it towards a 2650. The IAT’s would probably end up substantially lower since the reality is the blower itself probably lends more to the heat soak than transferable enthalpy from the motor itself.

When driven hard any way.
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Old 02-26-2021, 07:48 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alain View Post
If you go to 4:30 on this video https://youtu.be/aLn_hy5pxH4 (made by a member here while installing his catch can) you'll see the bolts I'm referring to. It's the two bolts in the very back. It's hard to tell on the video but those bolts are directly under the cowl.

To install the catch can you don't need to remove those bolts or the supercharger. You just need to loosen them, elevate the supercharger a couple of inches to gain access to the diverter valve. To install the spacers and blanket the supercharger and those bolts need to come out of the car.

I installed the catch can on my ZLE and that job is nothing compared to installing the spacers and blanket.

I'm not trying to be Mr. Gloom about this install. I just want to give people as much info as possible so they can make an informed decision when it comes to either installing this themselves or paying someone to do it.




Haha, now I see what you meant.

If I remember correctly, the shop manual calls for the motor to be lowered in order to gain clearance to remove those bolts in the rear. I know some people here have access to the shop manual, hopefully they'll chime in and correct me if I am wrong.

I had a similar clearance issue with those rear bolts on my Hellcat when I did the install last year. I removed the wipers, wiper motor and the cowl and had plenty of room.

I assume the Camaro would be the same, I can't see it being a big pain in the ass to remove the cowl on the Camaro. It worries me that the shop manual calls for the motor to be lowered to remove the supercharger INSTEAD of just removing the cowl.

I like this kit, my Hellcat felt peppier after I put the kit on it.

I just don't think I would have paid someone to do it. A shop would probably charge 4-5 hours to do it.....at probably close to $100/hour for labor it becomes a really expensive mod.
This is correct, the manual says to drop the cradle a few inches to gain access. Hoping this isn't the case as I'm gonna be sending the blower out for porting within the next month. Guess I'll find out the hard way
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Old 02-26-2021, 08:05 AM   #52
JSH


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtfoxy View Post
Honestly with the cost involved of the items discussed I’d probably put it towards a 2650.
Like almost everything for cars, removing/replacing the blower is probably a piece of cake AFTER you reinvent the wheel so to speak and do your first one. But sooner or later an LT4 owner will do one.

Reports on the interchiller are so convincing that it might make more sense to do that and not do spacers/blanket.
__________________
'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
OEM short block, LME heads/valve train, E2650.
100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O.
2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel.
4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes).
2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.
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Old 02-26-2021, 08:58 AM   #53
Z OH 6


 
Drives: 2021 Red Hot ZL1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSH View Post
Like almost everything for cars, removing/replacing the blower is probably a piece of cake AFTER you reinvent the wheel so to speak and do your first one. But sooner or later an LT4 owner will do one.

Reports on the interchiller are so convincing that it might make more sense to do that and not do spacers/blanket.
The chiller is more effective than just the spacers and blanket by far but costs more. The chiller, spacers, blanket together are even more effective which is how I had mine done on my Hellcat. This was the reason I never needed the stage 2 chiller.
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Old 02-26-2021, 09:34 AM   #54
gtfoxy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSH View Post
Like almost everything for cars, removing/replacing the blower is probably a piece of cake AFTER you reinvent the wheel so to speak and do your first one. But sooner or later an LT4 owner will do one.

Reports on the interchiller are so convincing that it might make more sense to do that and not do spacers/blanket.
An interchiller is on my list as something I would like to do. I am curious about one thing; I know Ford had a deal where at WOT the AC compressor would unlock, I don’t think they do any more. My old 650 would start blowing hot air every time, which, when hauling, was a LOT. I don’t remember my new one doing it.

I’m guessing our cars don’t do this, but I don’t know for sure.
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Old 02-26-2021, 09:35 AM   #55
JSH


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z OH 6 View Post
The chiller is more effective than just the spacers and blanket by far but costs more. The chiller, spacers, blanket together are even more effective which is how I had mine done on my Hellcat. This was the reason I never needed the stage 2 chiller.
We're going to get the car running right with the mods in my sig and then do the interchiller and measure the improvement
__________________
'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
OEM short block, LME heads/valve train, E2650.
100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O.
2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel.
4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes).
2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.
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Old 02-26-2021, 10:09 AM   #56
Z OH 6


 
Drives: 2021 Red Hot ZL1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSH View Post
We're going to get the car running right with the mods in my sig and then do the interchiller and measure the improvement
The thing about a chiller is that it isn't going to give you more HP so much as it keeps your car from losing HP from run to run. Nothing but cold outside air is actually going to increase HP, but with a chiller you can keep your car from pulling as much timing by keeping the air cooler going into the engine.
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