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Old 03-08-2018, 08:09 AM   #1
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FI and Oil Seals

I am on the fence about going FI or ZL1. Thinking at least at first of a low PSI centrifugal on my M6 SS.

I see several threads about blown seals. At what PSI is this a problem with the LT1 being revved to 6,500 often with the M6?

Also what should I do on my build to minimize or prevent a problem? Seals are a PIA.
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Old 03-08-2018, 08:16 AM   #2
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It should not be a problem long as you put a catch can on from the get go.
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Old 03-08-2018, 08:40 AM   #3
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Yes proper crankcase venting. Also in alot of these blown seal situations the people come to find out theres a deeper cause like piston failure. Theres a thread over on the Corvette forum about this. The 600 wheel mark seems to be the cutoff point for piston survival. The failures above the 600 mark are said to be non detonation related and more due to the tight ring gaps.
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Old 03-08-2018, 09:06 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by JFM-jr View Post
Yes proper crankcase venting. Also in alot of these blown seal situations the people come to find out theres a deeper cause like piston failure. Theres a thread over on the Corvette forum about this. The 600 wheel mark seems to be the cutoff point for piston survival. The failures above the 600 mark are said to be non detonation related and more due to the tight ring gaps.
What he said is what was my end result. Front seal, rear seal, then found 2 ringland failures. I was also just over the 600 mark and at the top of the RPM in a 4th during a long pull when she went.
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Old 03-08-2018, 11:48 AM   #5
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I will be installing a Whipple in the next couple weeks when it arrives. I am planning on installing a mighty mouse vented catch can at the same time to help minimize the risk of blowing a seal. Are there any guys that have had a blown seal while using a vented catch can?
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Old 03-08-2018, 12:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fraxum View Post
I am on the fence about going FI or ZL1. Thinking at least at first of a low PSI centrifugal on my M6 SS.

I see several threads about blown seals. At what PSI is this a problem with the LT1 being revved to 6,500 often with the M6?

Also what should I do on my build to minimize or prevent a problem? Seals are a PIA.
When we do FI on a Gen 6 we install an LS3 crank seal up front, Or a Metco Crank case breather.

GM changed the design for the Gen6 Likely to reduce drag, and it's very weak like tissue paper, Sneeze and it blows out.

Ted.
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Old 03-08-2018, 12:31 PM   #7
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Quick question. Does the ringland failure cause the crankcase to blow or does the blown crankcase cause the rings/pistons to fail?
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Old 03-08-2018, 12:41 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by misterjaayy View Post
Quick question. Does the ringland failure cause the crankcase to blow or does the blown crankcase cause the rings/pistons to fail?
The slightest crank case pressure can blow the seals out even without any piston ring land failure.

To answer your question Yes Piston failure causes seals to blow and not the other way around.

Ted.
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Old 03-08-2018, 01:08 PM   #9
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kind of on the subject/off the subject. I am looking for a catch can that I do not have to really do anything or think on how the routing of the hoses goes. That said, I did come from Mishimoto prior to boosted. is there anyone, anyone out there that has instructions that can accommodate to an already boosted motor?
- Maggie has you adjust the dirty side where the valley below the intake is prior to installation. due to the new routing. I'm confused as to what goes where. If someone sells this or can tell me the easiest most reliable way I'd buy from you TODAY!
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Old 03-08-2018, 03:35 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by oneredry View Post
kind of on the subject/off the subject. I am looking for a catch can that I do not have to really do anything or think on how the routing of the hoses goes. That said, I did come from Mishimoto prior to boosted. is there anyone, anyone out there that has instructions that can accommodate to an already boosted motor?
- Maggie has you adjust the dirty side where the valley below the intake is prior to installation. due to the new routing. I'm confused as to what goes where. If someone sells this or can tell me the easiest most reliable way I'd buy from you TODAY!
Here is the complete thread if you didn't see it
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showth...degree+fitting
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Old 03-08-2018, 05:28 PM   #11
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So if going FI, and only planning on staying around the 600whp figures, the best way to prevent engine failure would be a catch can and new pistons/rings? As well as fuel mods for SS models? Anything else I'm missing?
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Old 03-08-2018, 05:41 PM   #12
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No you don't need piston rings at that power...most of the failures are guys running over 600whp on the stock fuel system and start going lean on long pulls. Yes the ring gaps are tight on LT1's and some are tighter then others...kind of like women.

keep it around 580whp with a catch can/breather setup(mighty mouse) and you should be fine with nothing else.
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Old 03-08-2018, 08:25 PM   #13
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Metco

Quote:
Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING View Post
When we do FI on a Gen 6 we install an LS3 crank seal up front, Or a Metco Crank case breather.

GM changed the design for the Gen6 Likely to reduce drag, and it's very weak like tissue paper, Sneeze and it blows out.

Ted.
What part number metco do you use?
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Old 03-09-2018, 07:01 AM   #14
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So if going FI, and only planning on staying around the 600whp figures, the best way to prevent engine failure would be a catch can and new pistons/rings? As well as fuel mods for SS models? Anything else I'm missing?
With proper fuel supply and tuning the engine can live a long happy life at 600 RWHP.

The stock fuel system is capped out around 580 RWHP, those who push the limits of the fuel system are learning the hard way.

Ted.
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