[R3ctivision]

Originally Posted by TEX1LE

I had the same issue when I installed initially. The strut nut is loose you'll need to tighten it with a 3/8 impact (not too tight) and then finish it off with a torque wrench. With the car on the ground you can take the strut nuts on/off without any issues I've done it multiple times.

When tracking your car make sure to check it after every run.

Which specific tools do you use to do this with the plates on the car, given the tight clearance to the strut nut inside the plate cutout? I guess I need a pass-through 21mm socket plus a strong and very long T40 key? Although I don't think it is actually T40, anyone confirm?

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

Do you have the original set of nuts or the elongated ones?

I installed the ones (elongated compared w/ factory) that came with the kit. See the attached pics.

[R3ctivision]

FWIW, that torx bit you see in my pic snapped when we used a torque wrench on it with an open wrench holding the nut. Then we hit the nut with an impact wrench while the shock stem was free. Apparently neither approach worked for us Would like to get the "correct" solution for torquing this down without having to re-do the entire thing out of the car!

[TEX1LE]

Originally Posted by R3ctivision

FWIW, that torx bit you see in my pic snapped when we used a torque wrench on it with an open wrench holding the nut. Then we hit the nut with an impact wrench while the shock stem was free. Apparently neither approach worked for us Would like to get the "correct" solution for torquing this down without having to re-do the entire thing out of the car!

The only thing you’ll need is a deep 21mm socket. Put everything back together and torque it to spec with the car on the ground the weight of the car will hold everything in place. If you do it this way you won’t need the T40 anymore.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by TEX1LE

The only thing you’ll need is a deep 21mm socket. Put everything back together and torque it to spec with the car on the ground the weight of the car will hold everything in place. If you do it this way you won’t need the T40 anymore.

I saw your post about switching to red Loctite... still running that? and has it backed off since? I know you said check it after every run... but as for daily driving?

last time I used red Loctite was on the rotor bolts for the wilwood 2 piece rotors mounting em to the hats.

[TEX1LE]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

I saw your post about switching to red Loctite... still running that? and has it backed off since? I know you said check it after every run... but as for daily driving?

last time I used red Loctite was on the rotor bolts for the wilwood 2 piece rotors mounting em to the hats.

I switched to green loctite when I got the new part and it’s working pretty well but still backs off just a little after a few runs. I had blue loctite on there initially and after my second session the strut nut was loose to where I could unscrew it with my hand so I freaked out a little. I check it after each run just to play it safe and give myself a piece of mind while I’m on the track. I don’t think you’ll need to check it that often if you’re only daily driving. You’ll definitely know if it’s loose when you go over a bump it sounds like your car is falling apart lol.

[R3ctivision]

Originally Posted by TEX1LE

The only thing you’ll need is a deep 21mm socket. Put everything back together and torque it to spec with the car on the ground the weight of the car will hold everything in place. If you do it this way you won’t need the T40 anymore.

Really? The shock top goes through the camber plate's spherical bearing, right? I tried turning the 21mm nut with a simple ratchet and it seemed the shock turns along with it.

[TEX1LE]

Originally Posted by R3ctivision

Really? The shock top goes through the camber plate's spherical bearing, right? I tried turning the 21mm nut with a simple ratchet and it seemed the shock turns along with it.

I use my 3/8 impact to get it started and do the final tightening with a torque wrench.