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09-04-2016, 09:15 AM
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#1 |
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro RS Inferno Orange Join Date: May 2015
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 79
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Front Lower Control arms rearward and forward
Anybody have a walk through of removing the front lower control arm rearward and forward? Looking to do this today if its not too much of a headache. I know its pretty straightforward to do but i am just not sure if the shocks need to be messed with or not, meaning do they need to have a jack under them.
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09-04-2016, 12:46 PM
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#2 |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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Before I reply, why are you removing the front lower control arm?
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09-04-2016, 08:48 PM
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#3 |
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Master ASE, GM, LSX Tech.
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,034
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2010 2SSRS A6, Custom Pat G. Cam, WCCH Cylinder Heads, Kooks Headers/Exhaust, BTR Valvetrain, Fluidampr 25% UDP, All Engine ARP bolts, Flex-a-lite radiator/Trans cooler, Yank converter, PFADT Suspension, ADM Race Intake/Scoop, Torq tow hook, CFD auto shifter, Dynojet AFR gauge, Aeroforce scan gauge, Brake Performance rotors/pads
Prothane bushings, ZL1 wheels, spoiler, Z/28 wickerbill, 1LE Aero/Suspension Package, Anderson Composites COPO Carbon Fiber Hood, LED lighting, Elite Catch Can, Improved Racing oil pan baffle, crank scraper, windage tray 480 RWHP 452 RWTQ + Nitrous Express 150 Shot |
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09-05-2016, 02:14 AM
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#4 |
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Drives: 2010 Camaro RS Inferno Orange Join Date: May 2015
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 79
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I ran over a curb at about 40mph avoiding something in the road. Split my front driver rim completly around and warpped all other rims. Changed them all out since than however found out when i went to get an alignment that my lower control arm on the drivers side was bent 20 degrees. Seeing as i am replacing it so i can have a straight steering wheel again i am getting both the rearward and forward control arms. Already have them just was looking to see if anyone had any guides.
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09-05-2016, 10:00 AM
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#5 |
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Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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If you do one arm at a time, there is no need to support the assembly.
A floor jack or second person will come in handy to help you position hub / strut for re-assembly. |
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09-05-2016, 11:09 AM
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#6 |
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Drives: 2010 Camaro RS Inferno Orange Join Date: May 2015
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 79
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So basically if i use a jack to lift car up another to support the wheel hub unbolt one arm at a time that should be all i need to do correct. Shouldnt need to take off anything else other than the arm itself right. I can work on cars but havent done the control arms ever and couldnt find a chilten or haynes manual at store since its special order. Just making sure i dont have to do anything more than that.
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09-05-2016, 11:13 AM
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#7 | |
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Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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Quote:
If you are doing the radius arms as well, you'll need to take out a 10mm bolt that holds the washer bottle in place to remove the radius arm bolt on the driver's side. |
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09-05-2016, 11:15 AM
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#8 |
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Drives: 2010 Camaro RS Inferno Orange Join Date: May 2015
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 79
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Ok cool thank you for the help i appreciate it. Just doing the control arms so im good.
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09-05-2016, 01:19 PM
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#9 |
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Drives: 2010 Camaro RS Inferno Orange Join Date: May 2015
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 79
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Ok so i removed the forward control arm however putting the new one in is not as easy any tricks? I got the ball joint end in however trying to get the upper section to align with the bolt hole to the frame is not working out like i thought.
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09-05-2016, 02:00 PM
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#10 |
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Drives: 2010 Camaro RS Inferno Orange Join Date: May 2015
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 79
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Ok never mind i got it on. Was a bit tricky. Anyone know the torque for theses bolts?
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09-05-2016, 04:39 PM
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#11 |
  
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Victory Red Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 921
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Sorry was at the pool. http://www.spohn.net/support/questio...ications+chart
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 Updates: BTR Stage 2 VVT Cam Kit w/Smith Brothers Trunnions, Fluidampr, RX catch can, B&M Trans pan mod, Kooks Black Headers, Borla S-tunes, Eibach Multi-Pro-R2 coilovers and Swaybars, BMR Full Bushing kit with Toe and Trailing arms, RB Rotors w/EBC Pads, GForce 1400 Axles (now on order). AVH-X5800BHS in Scosche GM5201AB. |
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09-05-2016, 06:39 PM
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#12 |
        
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Clarksville Tennesse.
Posts: 6,064
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Did you have issue getting them apart???
I heard the ball joints could be a real Bitch!!!
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Orange Krush II
1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components. |
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09-05-2016, 07:02 PM
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#13 |
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Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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Torque specs are for new bolts. The inner lower control arm bolt you removed is a TTY single use bolt. If you replace it torque to spec. If you reuse it, red LocTite and German spec, Goodentight.
The ball stud is steel. The knuckle is aluminum. Once apart, they need to be a bit tighter than spec. |
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09-05-2016, 09:08 PM
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#14 |
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Drives: 2010 Camaro RS Inferno Orange Join Date: May 2015
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 79
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Finished the job earlier and torqued everything to spec. Got an alignment and all is good now. I appreciate all the help from everyone. Now just need to put on my ported intake manifold, and hurst short throw shifter. That and the mylink i bought and have sitting around. I need to get it programmed i know gen5diy does it but still think 240 plus shipping is costly, anyone know who else does it for cheaper and possibly in houston area or in texas.
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