07-12-2018, 03:12 PM | #15 |
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I doubt that the pan warped from being exposed to the sun.
But how did you clean the pan? Did yo do anything aggressive with a wire brush? Only other thought: did you use the required 8mm guide pins when installing the pan? Last edited by Rock-It Man; 07-12-2018 at 03:25 PM. |
07-12-2018, 11:54 PM | #16 |
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I didn’t use guide pins just lined up a bolt on each side and slowly fastened all of them then torqued them down, I will be dropping it soon I’m just frustrated from having to do this for the 3rd time especially in this hundred degree weather
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07-12-2018, 11:56 PM | #17 |
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And no I used a rag with break cleaner the surface was basically clean already I didn’t even have to do that much cleaning the gaskets go dry so nothing was left on the block besides a bit of debree
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07-13-2018, 12:34 AM | #18 |
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Did you do a criss cross pattern starting from the middle when bolting the pan back on?
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07-13-2018, 12:59 AM | #19 |
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Yes
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07-13-2018, 02:06 AM | #20 |
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Do any of the bolt holes go into the crankcase area? I know on my old GTA, a few of the intake bolts did go into the oil galley area inside the heads. If you didn't coat the bolt threads with some sealer, they would leak and compromise the intake seal in that area.
I thought these newer Camaros took a FIPG sealer and not a rubber gasket like the old school cars? I don't think the sun would've warped a 1/8" piece of diecast aluminum. If it had the potential to do that, our hoods would look like melted butter. When you do it for the 3rd time, I'd get new oil pan bolts just be safe. You might've stripped one or more of holes in the aluminum block by doing it so many times, but we won't go there. That would be worst case senario. |
07-13-2018, 06:35 AM | #21 |
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They don’t I had a few buddy’s that worked at GM tell me they don’t know what it is, on the first time I dropped it they even gave me a hand and they were amazed that it leaked they said they had done a lot of pans before and never did they use anything no silicone anywhere or had an issue with a leak
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07-13-2018, 07:33 AM | #22 |
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Did you ever clean it up, drive it around the block and use the dye and UV light to find if the sealing surface was actually the source of the leak?
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07-13-2018, 08:19 AM | #23 |
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My mistake. The alignment pins are used on the V6 only.
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07-13-2018, 11:11 AM | #24 |
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I have heard of (in rare cases), where the material (in this case aluminum) is actually is porous to a small degree due to a flaw in the casting process, allowing liquid to seep thru the material itself.
I believe in one case it was an engine block. They couldn't find where it was leaking until they did a dye test, which showed it was leaking directly through the wall of the engine block. Weird huh?? |
07-13-2018, 12:22 PM | #25 | |
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Quote:
Service Information tells you to apply engine sealant (silicone) to the front cover gasket tabs. I apply it to the rear cover tabs as well just as a bit of precaution. I haven't had an oil pan come back for a leak yet, been 11 years doing it. Just make sure you don't go crazy, it only needs a .2 diameter bead run .8 inches long across the tabs. |
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07-13-2018, 04:53 PM | #26 |
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Aluminum castings can have significant porosity. But this is supposed to be detected and repaired with welding before the cast part even gets to machining. A silicone repair can only be considered temporary.
Oh well. |
07-16-2018, 10:04 AM | #27 |
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I agree completely, the engines that developed the leak in the casting should have been replaced. But GM warranty only wants the least expensive repair.
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