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Old 08-03-2019, 09:04 AM   #1
reko19
 
Drives: 2016 2SS
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Help with Bose and aftermarket

I am a second owner of 2016 2SS. Had a car for few months, sound system sounds like crap. I mean really bad, objectively. The car originally came with Bose system, there is some aftermarket equipment installed. Need some help sorting things out.


From what I could gather, there are six speakers in the car. Front tweeters, front door speakers, rear speakers. All speakers except for the rear look to be OEM. the rears were changed to Morel Tempo Integra 140W 6”x9” speakers.



The original Bose amplifier is still in the car mounted above left rear tire. There is also Fix 82 DSP and JL Audio HD 600/4 Amplifier. Four input channels of Fix 82 are utilized, channels 1, 2, 3, and 4. I haven’t traced inputs but they are coming from the original harness that was modified. Analog output from Fix 82 is routed to the amplifier and connected to front left and right channel input. Front speaker out is connected to tweeters and door mounted speakers (unplugged n the pic as I was trying to figure out connection). Rear speakers out is connected to the rear speakers. I could see mounting holes from the subwoofer but it is gone.


So few questions.

  1. Are the door speakers supposed to be used as subwoofers / base in the OEM setup?
  2. I understand that Fix 82 is used to mix all channels back together so the original signal could be used to drive the amp. But there are so many settings. And I don’t even know what each input was originally used for. Any recommendations on what to do here?
  3. Originally front tweeters and door speakers were on separate channels, now they are combined on the single amplifier output. How do I deal with this?
  4. Should I just leave the current setup and add subwoofer that is clearly missing from the system?
appreciate any help
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Old 08-03-2019, 10:27 AM   #2
drfeelgood

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reko19 View Post
I am a second owner of 2016 2SS. Had a car for few months, sound system sounds like crap. I mean really bad, objectively. The car originally came with Bose system, there is some aftermarket equipment installed. Need some help sorting things out.


From what I could gather, there are six speakers in the car. Front tweeters, front door speakers, rear speakers. All speakers except for the rear look to be OEM. the rears were changed to Morel Tempo Integra 140W 6”x9” speakers.



The original Bose amplifier is still in the car mounted above left rear tire. There is also Fix 82 DSP and JL Audio HD 600/4 Amplifier. Four input channels of Fix 82 are utilized, channels 1, 2, 3, and 4. I haven’t traced inputs but they are coming from the original harness that was modified. Analog output from Fix 82 is routed to the amplifier and connected to front left and right channel input. Front speaker out is connected to tweeters and door mounted speakers (unplugged n the pic as I was trying to figure out connection). Rear speakers out is connected to the rear speakers. I could see mounting holes from the subwoofer but it is gone.
First, I'm sorry you have to deal with this. This .. this... this is fu*ked up. I mean, this is what the "homie hookup" looks like. Someone has a friend that says they can hook this up, and they messed it up. OK, with that out of the way, let me try to offer some advice


Are the door speakers supposed to be used as subwoofers / base in the OEM setup?

Yes, in the Bose system, the door speakers are being sent frequencies in the midbass /subbass range. So from about 500Hz down. But the signal you are getting is more of a full range due to the Fix82

I understand that Fix 82 is used to mix all channels back together so the original signal could be used to drive the amp. But there are so many settings. And I don’t even know what each input was originally used for. Any recommendations on what to do here?

First thing you need to do is get this.
https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalo...faces/ap4-gm61

or this

https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT838/m650-gm.html


This should be connected and then run to a DSP such as a Fix82 , Hertz H8, Audison bitone. Or, if you want to forego advanced tuning, you can run this unit straight to an amplifier or two. There is no analog full range signal leaving a traditional headunit. So the person that set your vehicle up is attempting to sum signals from the OEm amplifier that are EQ'd, time delayed, AND not full range. This is not ideal

Originally front tweeters and door speakers were on separate channels, now they are combined on the single amplifier output. How do I deal with this?

I am not sure if he has a passive amplifier in there somewhere separating the signals. This can be stand alone, or can sometimes be done at the level of the midbass driver, depending on the setup. If you plan to run a 2 way front stage with tweeter and midbass/midrange, most of those will come with a passive crossover. This way, you can send one full range signal to the crossover, and it will separate the frequencies for you.

Should I just leave the current setup and add subwoofer that is clearly missing from the system?

In short... HELL NO!

Hope this helps
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Old 08-03-2019, 10:49 AM   #3
reko19
 
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@drfeelgood,
Thank you for the reply. I will look into your suggestions and circle back with more questions I am sure. I am the type a guy who prefers to do his homework before I start cutting wires. Electrical engineer by trade so hopefully I could figure this out, bit over my head for now. Appreciate your help!
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Old 08-03-2019, 12:12 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by reko19 View Post
@drfeelgood,
Thank you for the reply. I will look into your suggestions and circle back with more questions I am sure. I am the type a guy who prefers to do his homework before I start cutting wires. Electrical engineer by trade so hopefully I could figure this out, bit over my head for now. Appreciate your help!
There are lots of good threads in this forum that will get you thru it. We have hashed out problems like yours several times. Get the PAC audio piece and then you will be in good shape.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=558538

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=547568
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Old 08-03-2019, 07:37 PM   #5
headgamez
 
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That does not look good....
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Old 08-03-2019, 08:46 PM   #6
KirkH


 
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That does not look good....
Ugly install but he has good pieces to work with. Just needs a Bose signal processor and some pretty wiring ends.
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Old 08-04-2019, 09:01 AM   #7
reko19
 
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Few questions from a guy who replaced a stock radio in the car about 300 years ago

PAC connects to the radio in the dash. The function of the radio unit in the dash is to drive the display and to provide audio source such as radio, blue tooth, etc to the Bose amp in the back? Are these four channels currently plugged into my Fix82. What is the reason it is broken up in so many channels BEFORE it gets to the Bose amp?

If I install PAC, why do I need Fix82?

It seem to me I will have to run wires from the PAC to the back of the car so I could install amps (or use the aftermarket one that is already there) and connect speakers that are all wired to the back?

thanks everyone
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Old 08-04-2019, 10:05 AM   #8
KirkH


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reko19 View Post
Few questions from a guy who replaced a stock radio in the car about 300 years ago

PAC connects to the radio in the dash. The function of the radio unit in the dash is to drive the display and to provide audio source such as radio, blue tooth, etc to the Bose amp in the back? Are these four channels currently plugged into my Fix82. What is the reason it is broken up in so many channels BEFORE it gets to the Bose amp?

If I install PAC, why do I need Fix82?

It seem to me I will have to run wires from the PAC to the back of the car so I could install amps (or use the aftermarket one that is already there) and connect speakers that are all wired to the back?

thanks everyone
The PAC converts the Bose signal to a full signal you can use, not just the frequencies you would get by splicing the speaker wire.

The Fix82 is a digital sound processor. It will allow you to fix the time delay from the stereo so that the sound waves from the door speakers reaches your ears at same time as the back Speakers.
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Old 08-06-2019, 06:58 AM   #9
reko19
 
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Hit a snag last night, went from crappy sound to no sound at all. Need some help please. Also, correction to my previus post, I have inputs 1,2,3,4,7,8 utilized on FiX 82.


Wanted to use TuN software to see settings a previous owner used in Fix 82. First was unable to connect my laptop, had to update Fix 82 to the latest firmware. No issues there, went smooth. The next step was to go through the calibration status. Tried using the software, no luck. All i get is "failure: low input signal level". Tried disabling some of the inputs prior to calibration as was suggested in one of the videos, same thing. Also tried to do it by just pressing the button on the module itself, indicator LEDs for the input status stay solid red, calibration status LEDs blink four times which according to the manual means no/low input signal level. I am dumbfounded since I didn't change anything other than a firmware upgrade. Manual talks about some of the OEM needing FiX-LSA-4 to activate OEM amplifier outputs, but if it was working properly before I don't think I need it. Could someone please through some suggestions at me on what t do next. I am at a loss.
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Old 08-06-2019, 01:55 PM   #10
KirkH


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reko19 View Post
Hit a snag last night, went from crappy sound to no sound at all. Need some help please. Also, correction to my previus post, I have inputs 1,2,3,4,7,8 utilized on FiX 82.


Wanted to use TuN software to see settings a previous owner used in Fix 82. First was unable to connect my laptop, had to update Fix 82 to the latest firmware. No issues there, went smooth. The next step was to go through the calibration status. Tried using the software, no luck. All i get is "failure: low input signal level". Tried disabling some of the inputs prior to calibration as was suggested in one of the videos, same thing. Also tried to do it by just pressing the button on the module itself, indicator LEDs for the input status stay solid red, calibration status LEDs blink four times which according to the manual means no/low input signal level. I am dumbfounded since I didn't change anything other than a firmware upgrade. Manual talks about some of the OEM needing FiX-LSA-4 to activate OEM amplifier outputs, but if it was working properly before I don't think I need it. Could someone please through some suggestions at me on what t do next. I am at a loss.
From the error message, my guess is that you need the PAC Audio piece to get a good signal to the FIx 82.

See if this helps:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-pfQV30...FiX-LSA-4.html
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Old 08-06-2019, 02:03 PM   #11
reko19
 
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@KirkH, Thank you for the reply. FiX-LSA-4 is designed to present an appropriate impedance load to OEM head unit or amplifier outputs that employ ''load-sensing startup protection". Since it was properly working before, I don't think this is an issue.
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Old 08-06-2019, 02:51 PM   #12
KirkH


 
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Originally Posted by reko19 View Post
@KirkH, Thank you for the reply. FiX-LSA-4 is designed to present an appropriate impedance load to OEM head unit or amplifier outputs that employ ''load-sensing startup protection". Since it was properly working before, I don't think this is an issue.
No problem glad to try to help.

The link description of the LSA 4 says:

"Some factory radios and amplifiers will not work without sensing that its speakers (low-impedance loads) are connected to their outputs. So adding a sound processor that uses the factory wiring for its inputs, like a JL Audio FiX 82 or FiX 86, would normally result in no audio at all."

That sounds like what is going on with your system. Perhaps the previous user had hacked the firmware or something, and when you updated the firmware, you get the "normal" response of "no audio at all".
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Old 08-06-2019, 06:21 PM   #13
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So to be 100% frank, you don't really need the fix 82. as mentioned, a full DSP also has time alignment and a full 32 band EQ for each channel. That allows for pretty precise tuning within the car.

If you don't want that level of tuning and speaker attenuation, you can just bypass the fix82, and install the pac unit. You wont have to worry about all of those speaker wires going to the Fix 88, as the Pac unit will link directly with the headunit, and you can run low level (RCA) output, high level output, or Toslink directly to your amplifiers (if you have digital amplifiers that accept optical input)
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'14 CTS-V Coupe - ZL1 lid - Ported TB - Ported Snout - AirRad CAI - 8.66" lower - 2.55" upper- Greenbelt - SW Headers - SW Catback - Varimax Intercooler Pump - Track Attack Intercooler-Tuned at BRC Raceworks (551rwhp/516trq)

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Old 08-06-2019, 07:02 PM   #14
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S the Pac unit will link directly with the headunit, and you can run low level (RCA) output, high level output, or Toslink directly to your amplifiers (if you have digital amplifiers that accept optical input)
Very good and important point!
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