[mfk]

hey guys - been lurking and reading all I can for the past week or so.
I'm hoping to take delivery of a 2017 Camaro 2.0T A8 within the next week.
I am extremely new to car modding but have always had a keen interest in cars.

My two goals for this car is to get the 0-60 down to below 5 seconds while keeping it as stock as possible.
I know there is a lot of literature on this forum about how people should not fixate on 0-60 but I've just always dreamed of owning a car that hits 0-60 in less than 5 seconds.

A few other things that I read on the forum that matter: I weigh 160lbs and have the 18 inch rims with stock tires (all seaons I believe).


So far, I think I'm going to get a CAI and a Racechip.
Will that be enough to get a sub 5 second 0-60?

Or will I need to do something about the exhaust too?
I'm hesitant to go catless but wouldn't mind something a more free flowing.
(if something like that even exists.)

As I said, I'm completely new to car modding any assistance or tips would be highly appreciated.
Thank you for reading!!

[HCI2000SS]

On the right surface with the right temp I think it's very possible. My bone stock automatic 18 RS V6 has done a best of 5.3, and that's with big heavy 20's and no foot braking. With 18's and pulling the revs up a bit, I bet I could do 5 flat in the right conditions. With your mods, and the lighter weight and better torque of the turbo 4, I'm sure it can be done

[Gutling]

Look at the 0-60 thread, lots of times/mods posted there for 2.0

[mfk]

Thanks for the responses!

@HCI2000SS -> As soon as I get my hands on the vehicle. I will test it stock and order the relevant parts, install them, compare and report back!

@Gutling -> I've definitely read through that thread a little bit.
There seems to be a lot people with a lot of work done to their cars that are getting anywhere from 3.8 - 4.8 seconds to 60mph.
But my question really is what is the minimum amount of mods (stay closest to stock) to reliably hit 4.9s.

[Evil-Bee-NH]

Originally Posted by mfk

Thanks for the responses!

@HCI2000SS -> As soon as I get my hands on the vehicle. I will test it stock and order the relevant parts, install them, compare and report back!

@Gutling -> I've definitely read through that thread a little bit.
There seems to be a lot people with a lot of work done to their cars that are getting anywhere from 3.8 - 4.8 seconds to 60mph.
But my question really is what is the minimum amount of mods (stay closest to stock) to reliably hit 4.9s.

You don't need a RaceChip to hit that i hit 4.8s with just 2 bolt-ons untuned on heavy 20s.

ZZP Catted Downpipe & Injen CAI. I did have an Axle-back probably saved some weight there but did nothing for that extra power.

If your not interested in a CAI best bang for your buck is a Downpipe, Mishimoto Intake Tube and K&N drop in filter. Everything after that is practice and road conditions.

[wookwook]

pretty sure stock tires wont cut it. also you may be a little disadvantaged w/o a LSD. you would need perfect atmosphere to come close. anything that will improve free flow across the head is a good start. Im pretty well bolted up with a RC-RS and my best start is still 5.6. BUT POSTED MY FIRST SUB-14 on the 1/4 mile!!! after tires spent the afternoon heating up and the track cooled down. There are limited CEL free options w/o a ecu rewrite. RC is pretty good for all around drivability but to win races you will need strong medicine.

[Evil-Bee-NH]

Originally Posted by wookwook

pretty sure stock tires wont cut it. also you may be a little disadvantaged w/o a LSD. you would need perfect atmosphere to come close. anything that will improve free flow across the head is a good start. Im pretty well bolted up with a RC-RS and my best start is still 5.6. BUT POSTED MY FIRST SUB-14 on the 1/4 mile!!! after tires spent the afternoon heating up and the track cooled down. There are limited CEL free options w/o a ecu rewrite. RC is pretty good for all around drivability but to win races you will need strong medicine.

I did it on stock 20" runflats pretty sure whiskeyfed cut some under 5.0s times as well.

[mfk]

@wookwook -> thats disappointing that you're unable to get below 5 seconds with all those mods.
@Evil-Bee-NH -> Are the stock 20" summer performance tires?

What would a downpipe and CAI do for my engine warranty? Would the dealer void my engine warranty?

I know the RaceChip would prolly void it so I would uninstall every time before going to the dealer.

I see on the website that the ZZP downpipe claims to add ~30HP.
Which seems to be around the same that the RaceChip seems to add according to the dyno testing that jacFab did.

I'm leaning towards the Racechip because its so easy to reverse.
I wonder if anyone on the boards just has the Racechip and nothing else and see what their 0-60 times are.

[wookwook]

Lets put it this way. Anyone pondering warranty with a removable mod is just ruminating morality. Its like buying something you desperately want but really don't need, and have every intention of returning such thing once the single use is done. In the case of a bolted on mod, like race chip as an example, and yes I have one, what happens if you had to get a tow to the dealer? They see the mod. Its just a calculated risk we all have to take who are modding here. Warranty is after all, the definition of risk management. There is some peer pressure on here to go to full ecu tune. Modding communities are like the wild west to some degree because we, me include are pushing the envelope and thus introducing some risk. I think its also part of the fascination with this hobby or sport. I am being sincere and not trying to be a know it all by any stretch. If you want to reach 5 secs, its going to take a lot of trials of high speed take offs, whether legally on track or the streets. Testing and trying new things is risky in expense, it may not work or produce new dynamics to chase down, the unknown and unknowable. Running cat less is illegal so consider epa penalties and harm to environment and breach of good faith to a manufacturer who designed a clean engine. Also consider that we are mostly hobbyists here, not professional mechanics, for the most part. Consider that most of the info and opinions on much of the internet should be taken for what its worth; free advise.



There is a whole pandora's box when you are pushing this envelope. It is a big learning curve to understand the limits and which ones to push to try to get to there where ever there is. On the other hand, you can get 5 pages in to tuning for dummies to get the lecture on hidden mods like ecu writing. Consider selling a modded ecu w/o disclosure. The safest way is to transfer the risk back to the dealer and thus get the worst possible return on your investment. The sly way to transfer that risk is sell it privately w/o disclosing the warranty busting mod. But if it were me on the receiving end I would get mad and get even. Because well fraud, is bad. If its really too much to accept, just hang on until the warranty is up, then go ahead and let it rip!

[Giri]

Wow 5 seconds? I'm at like 6.7

[wookwook]

6.7, how do you fit?

[mfk]

Agreed with everything you’ve said about warranty wookwook.

But this thread has me super confused.

Stock our A8 is supposed to do 5.5 according to the brochure.
How are you doing 5.6 with so many mods?
Or Giri - how are you at 6.7?

[Evil-Bee-NH]

Originally Posted by mfk

Agreed with everything you’ve said about warranty wookwook.

But this thread has me super confused.

Stock our A8 is supposed to do 5.5 according to the brochure.
How are you doing 5.6 with so many mods?
Or Giri - how are you at 6.7?

Wook is also M6 so his 0-60 is entirely on his shifts. The A8 shifts for you the 20s i had were the A/S runsucks at the time. When i went to 20" Summer Performance i hit 4.6s fairly often but usually still cut 4.8s on average. The bolt-ons without a tune do not add power they open the available powerband up more. When i went to my 17" drag radials i could cut 4.2 to 4.3s on a regular basis so nothing makes me think the lighter 18s with bolt-ons can't easily hit 4.8s but don't count on it hitting that more then 40% of the time without going further down tje aftermarket rabbit hole.

Ex; stock crank 275/295 wheel maybe 240/260 some have better or worse in 6th gear. What the untuned bolt-ons will do is maybe put wheel higher around 260/290 some have seen more or less. I'm not a huge fan of tje RaceChip because you can't properly monitor your car using it. I'm not saying it doesn't have it's uses and merit but if your modding you need to do yourself a simple favor and not take warranty into consideration. Your not voiding anything but your exhaust with a downpipe. And using the intake tube with a drop-in K&N isn't going to harm your turbo and if you were worried that tube is very easy to switch out to the stock one.

[wookwook]

Well? That question is exactly what has me looking at my logs. I notice a certain mph spin up right after each shift. Its exactly what would be logged during wheel spin at shifts 1, 2, and yes 3 even. That to the first 1/8 mile. Tires are 18 inch GY perf sport 18 NRF, they are high mileage all season, thus harder compound, thus not gripping. Also running on the track surface w/o a traction adder, slip and slide on warm surface. Also in the long standing thread for 0-60 I think Jason? maybe, proved that his drag pack proved worth, a few tens? it was significant. Also I have a mid pipe, that is adding restriction to the stock muffler. theres 2 factors. I am thinking of doing MRT with the resonator. But I really dont want to drive a "RACE" ready car all the time. My dilemma. Next its summer and boost is probably near max reserve... theory. I am pretty sure there's 5.2 there I just have to pay up for it. Not a huge priortiy but the research is worth it learning a ton. Apex Arc-8 10's square and MRT axle back. Just have to pull the trigger. (maybe a set of drag fronts for the hell of it). I guess the moral to the story is I prefer to get the answer for the right reason, not just because I know intuitively it will work.