[ABQautoxer]

IMO after 20 yrs of this game is that there are very few compromise pads if your tracks have significant braking. Best plan is to simply switch pads between events. That said, if the OE pads are close to good enough, I'd recommend the Ferodo DS2500. There are a minor step up from the OE pad but don't have the 1.11's cold temp issues. Normally I'd warn about dust but compared to OE I don't think its any different.

[seanblurr]

Been through a few different pads, prefer OEM. They do the job (at least at our tracks). Calipers are still fine, race pads destroyed my last set.

[TrackClub]

Good to hear from you Sean!
But, what is the Forum multi track record holder doing with stock pads??? Just kidding of course, lol!

But, there seems to be a general propensity to go with a highest torque possible these days. Damn the torpedoes like tires, balance, driver skill and component longevity. Surely, putting a top dog pro race pad on, must automatically translate into faster laps, on a street car, with an amateur behind the wheel, no?

It used to be that XP10 was a cat's meow!
But now all new development and marketing seems to centre around the highest torque possible.
Soon folks will be boiling SRF! But there are some exceptions: like Pagid. Most of their pro level race pads are hardly over .50 MU. Yet, Corvette Racing team uses them. Blue, to be exact. Then again, what do they know, eh?

On the subject of the stock compound vs DS2500: they are extremely close and nobody really knows how they differ. Ferodo says both are just below their full race pad designation. Of course race pad means full slicks, full cooling, proper sized rotors to deal with heat...and little consideration to component longevity beyond a race. Not a season...
What is known, is that the stockers are derived from a DS family, which actually offers higher torque vs DS2500.
And, the latter cost about 30% more vs the stockers (Rockauto vs KNS). Personally I'd try them if they offered more longevity. But i am yet to meet a pad that lasts longer than 5 or 6 days regardless of make. So why pay more? The exception being ST43 but that binary on/off bad boy is beyond my talent (and heat tolerance).

So there you have it: my rant is over now
Cheers!

Ps Seen the latest Rd Atlanta fast lap vid? A dude in SS 1le on street tires and "track day" pads beat a prior record posted by a ZL1 1LE on Pirelli slicks. Great wheeling, including textbook **trail braking**. That's how you go fast: keep her balanced on the limit. But that wont happen without feeling the grip. And to feel it, one must invest in seat time. It really is that simple.

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

If you're going to run the same pads on the street, you might want to look into rotor wear rates (especially in the street setting when pads don't get anywhere near the temperature they're rated for in track use). Total brake system consumable cost has to include periodic rotor replacement as well.

Perhaps that's part of what the Carbotech/G-loc price premium buys you; at the XP10/R10 level that I know of, rotor wear rates are about the same as Hawk's HPS street pads. The 12 level pads aren't quite that gentle, but they're nowhere near as rough as Hawk's HP+.

What I don't know is how the 60's and 70's compare to either the CT/G-loc lineup or even Hawk's own HPS/HP+, rotor wear-wise.


Norm

I've been told Girodisc, Stoptech and DBA all make superior rotors compared to the stock ones, might give them a try once the stock ones wear out, not sure if anyone here has any experience with them or not.

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by ABQautoxer

IMO after 20 yrs of this game is that there are very few compromise pads if your tracks have significant braking. Best plan is to simply switch pads between events. That said, if the OE pads are close to good enough, I'd recommend the Ferodo DS2500. There are a minor step up from the OE pad but don't have the 1.11's cold temp issues. Normally I'd warn about dust but compared to OE I don't think its any different.

Yeah I might just have to switch pads before and after events...

Hawk recommended the HT10 or Street/Track R series, so I might give those a try first and see how they are for dual purpose, has anyone tried these before?

Also I'm wondering about Cobalt XR3, man they are expensive but the description says it has good cold and hot performance, has anyone here tried them before?

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

Been through a few different pads, prefer OEM. They do the job (at least at our tracks). Calipers are still fine, race pads destroyed my last set.

Which pads destroyed your calipers? Gloc?

I'm starting to see why you run things stock, it's a lot cheaper, easier/simpler and it all works together, almost like it was meant or or something...

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Ps Seen the latest Rd Atlanta fast lap vid? A dude in SS 1le on street tires and "track day" pads beat a prior record posted by a ZL1 1LE on Pirelli slicks. Great wheeling, including textbook **trail braking**. That's how you go fast: keep her balanced on the limit. But that wont happen without feeling the grip. And to feel it, one must invest in seat time. It really is that simple.

Yeah I just started trail braking, was on pace to beat my best lap time by more 1 second before I locked up all 4 tires on the last corner. It's making a huge difference for sure.

Didn't know ST43 were on and off, that doesn't sound street friendly.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey

I've been told Girodisc, Stoptech and DBA all make superior rotors compared to the stock ones, might give them a try once the stock ones wear out, not sure if anyone here has any experience with them or not.

Pads that are known to be abrasive are still going to be abrasive on 'superior' (read, pricier) rotors. Maybe just a little less so than on OE-replacement-level rotors.


Norm

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey

Yeah I just started trail braking, was on pace to beat my best lap time by more 1 second before I locked up all 4 tires on the last corner. It's making a huge difference for sure.

Didn't know ST43 were on and off, that doesn't sound street friendly.

Or trail-brake friendly . . .


Norm

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey

Which pads destroyed your calipers? Gloc?

I'm starting to see why you run things stock, it's a lot cheaper, easier/simpler and it all works together, almost like it was meant or or something...

I think you're onto something here

If you managed to lock up stockers (or presumably engage ABS), than dont go to a more aggressive pad, but continue to work on your driving and better laps will come!

"Superior" rotor is a rather subjective term imo. Superior HOW? More metal mass (better cooling), better metallurgy (less cracking, longer life), other? Surprised AP Racing wasnt mentioned. In any case, to suggest that Brembo ranks dead last is a ridiculous proposition based on my own first hand experience, as well as how many tod dog manufacturers and pro race teams use them.
Moreover, I am not aware of anyone ever splitting a rotor on any gen6, or going off because of brake fade on stock set up.

As far as i know only DBA makes discs that fit our hats. For ZL1 i think you'd need to buy a whole assy incl their hat. Jury is out if they are better than stock and likely the jury is not coming back any time soon (because of countless variables involved in arriving at an objective comparison). And of course they cost more...

Usually, folks change brake systems because:
1. Current rotors split (longevity issue)
2. They want to reduce rotating mass, while chasing this last tenth (focus on performance vs longevity = big wallet).
3. They want better heat management (bigger rotors for more aggressive pads).
4. They have too much money and/or want to impress their cars and coffee friends

Usually those with long HPDE seasons focus on longevity, as this hobby is hard on a wallet no matter what. Usually those folks focus on maximizing their seat time vs looking at a parked car with a $10k BBK and expensive replacement parts. Those that race, may use different criteria as mentioned above. Pro teams use completely different criteria (and budgets). Note that if you purchase a BBK you will likely be at a mercy of that manufacturer for replacement parts and their prices.

Bottom line, you have 6 days behind your belt, which means you still have a very long road ahead of you learning wise. You almost bettered your PB by a second, which is HUGE (kudos! - you'll get it next time!).
So...WHAT PROBLEM EXACTLY ARE YOU TRYING TO ADDRESS WITH DIFFERENT PADS?

PS As usual Norm's responses are spot on

[rickybobby]

I bought the Zl1 1LE because it is track ready out of the box. Over the last 20 years, I’ve been modifying my cars (ie brakes, suspension, tires) to be competitive in nasa and scca and am thrilled to see that everything on this car suits my needs for the track without modifications.

Based on the two days I’ve had at Laguna, the stock brakes are just fine for me.
For what it’s worth, I’ve run the st43’s on other cars and think they were ok. I had a hard time bedding them and getting them to run smoothly, and they produced some high caliper and rotor temps. Nonetheless, were a good value pad.

I’m glad I don’t need to mess around with race pads on the ZL1 and run around town sounding like a squealing school bus. The big wing gets me enough attention on its own

[Provoste]

Agreed, I have countless laps on stock pads in both the SS 1LE and the ZLE. Only time I felt the stock pads were holding me back was at VIR last year in the ZLE. They never gave up, just found I needed to use a little less pedal pressure than I wanted to use initially to avoid overheating the pads. BTW, that is 155-160mph 2x per lap. Side note, the ZL1 uses rear pads pretty hard as well, the OE rear pads seem to wear out about the same time as fronts.

[Homeless Junkie]

I don't have much experience, 5 days, but I run the stock pads. When I started to push the brakes hard changing fluid to Motul 5.1 (i think 5.1) made a difference. At this point seat time and instruction seem like the best money spent to get faster.

During my first track day, not performance driving course, I was surprised how many built race cars I passed.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Homeless Junkie

I don't have much experience, 5 days, but I run the stock pads. When I started to push the brakes hard changing fluid to Motul 5.1 (i think 5.1) made a difference. At this point seat time and instruction seem like the best money spent to get faster.

During my first track day, not performance driving course, I was surprised how many built race cars I passed.

Pretty nice feeling eh And kudos for having right priorities as to how to get faster!

Since you used Motul 5.1 fluid (which is ok) just an fyi to NEVER confuse 5.1 with DOT5 which is a BIG NO!
Here is a great chart of available brake fluids, plus some educated commentary about them, incl price per oz. for comparison.