[radz28]

I got mine back within a week. They repaired it the day they received it, and got it back in the mail the same day.

The MOTIV service was excellent. Ones after April (I think) are already updated.

[cjperformance]

Lol, so much drama with this 3.7 pulley

Not complaining since i knew i needed to expect issues like this.

Car running amazing. Driving back from getting a passing emissions inspection. Left the nannies on because im just doing normal driving. In normal drive mode (not TUTD).

Get on highway. Decide to punch it, pulls hard... TQ mgmt kick in, car bucks because its not tuned well on my car. Hear loud BOOOM!

OH CRAP... still runs fine. Hear a weird noise under the hood like a bad trombone when i press the throttle a little. WTF...

Ok, so just get it home... almost there. Still hear the procharger whine... low on power... not panicing yet.

Open the hood anticipating a while new vision of underhood carnage...

See the rubber/silicone elbow on the discharge side of the PC is kinked up... well theres the bad trombone noise, but what caused it?

Look down at the inlet to the intercooler, rubber connection there has blown off the inlet to the intercooler. Ok, that was the boom.

Im guessing the tq mgmt cause the throttle to close and the pressure to spike. Coupled with the clamp maybe not being tight enough. If i recall, the non visible clamps that were supplied with the kit were just regular hose clamps... the ones that were visible up top are much higher quality... but i might have to tear off the FE to get to this... wasnt able to poke around much since the eng was hot. Ill get some higher quality hose clamps to replace on those connections.

I may end up stepping up to a 3.9" pulley for a while just so i can spend more time driving and less time fixing.

[rcoe]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

Im guessing the tq mgmt cause the throttle to close and the pressure to spike. Coupled with the clamp maybe not being tight enough. If i recall, the non visible clamps that were supplied with the kit were just regular hose clamps... the ones that were visible up top are much higher quality... but i might have to tear off the FE to get to this... wasnt able to poke around much since the eng was hot. Ill get some higher quality hose clamps to replace on those connections.

Yes if they are the ones that came with the kit they are the cheap worm clamps, just replaced mine this winter. Was surprised to see them down there all hidden when up top they were all quality ones.

I can relate to the frustration, finally got my tune just about done except for some belt slippage. Swapping on the griptech pulley I must have put a little too much on the large bolt on the backside of the tensioner, it just seized inside the tensioner. Had to snap the bolt to get it off, new one should be here today, hopefully back on the road again.

Good luck finishing getting your dialed in, I will most likely be doing the same upgrade this winter.

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by rcoe

Yes if they are the ones that came with the kit they are the cheap worm clamps, just replaced mine this winter. Was surprised to see them down there all hidden when up top they were all quality ones.

I can relate to the frustration, finally got my tune just about done except for some belt slippage. Swapping on the griptech pulley I must have put a little too much on the large bolt on the backside of the tensioner, it just seized inside the tensioner. Had to snap the bolt to get it off, new one should be here today, hopefully back on the road again.

Good luck finishing getting your dialed in, I will most likely be doing the same upgrade this winter.

I'm very pleased with the performance right now. I still need to dial down the shift points, but the port fuel injection and 3.7 pulley has put me where I want to be... just need to keep it together

I think you'll be happy with the THPSI kit if that's how you go.

[BeauRichardson]

I am basically doing the same thing give or take. Instead of ordering the port plates i just ordered the reflex plus/harness and the injectors, and i will be running the injectors in a holley low ram, instead of the plates. Also have the d1x blower.



My build is BTR Stage 3 S/C Cam, lt4 highside and injectors, fore dual in-tank pump, forged pistons and rods, Circle D 3600 stall, Holley low ram, and D1X Blower making about 12 pounds on the 3.85 pulley.



Unfortunately i'm only running 91 right now. I wasn't able to run much ethanol on the current setup, so once we get this thing finished up and all the secondary port set up we're going to full e85 and swapping to 3.70 pulley. Really trying to push the car to 1k wheel. But as of right now we aren't sure what its making wheel, only butt dyno. Feels about 800.



I am very curious to see how much power your car makes though with the 3.70 pulley. I was told that it is .9 psi per 100th of an inch on the pulley size. So by that calculation that would put me at about 25.5 psi.

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by BeauRichardson

I am basically doing the same thing give or take. Instead of ordering the port plates i just ordered the reflex plus/harness and the injectors, and i will be running the injectors in a holley low ram, instead of the plates. Also have the d1x blower.



My build is BTR Stage 3 S/C Cam, lt4 highside and injectors, fore dual in-tank pump, forged pistons and rods, Circle D 3600 stall, Holley low ram, and D1X Blower making about 12 pounds on the 3.85 pulley.



Unfortunately i'm only running 91 right now. I wasn't able to run much ethanol on the current setup, so once we get this thing finished up and all the secondary port set up we're going to full e85 and swapping to 3.70 pulley. Really trying to push the car to 1k wheel. But as of right now we aren't sure what its making wheel, only butt dyno. Feels about 800.



I am very curious to see how much power your car makes though with the 3.70 pulley. I was told that it is .9 psi per 100th of an inch on the pulley size. So by that calculation that would put me at about 25.5 psi.

I assume you mean 15.5 psi. Sounds reasonable. I don't know how much power mine makes. It's all stock heads/cam/pistons/exhaust/etc... I've just relied on track times and dragy to tell me if I'm making improvements or not.

I may get it on a dyno at some point, but right now, trying to make sure things are stable so I can be confident in a 1/4 mile pass without blowing something else up Feels strong, just haven't had a whole lot of time to work on the tune lately since repairing the front seal and getting the PC to Intercooler hose re-attached.

[BeauRichardson]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

I assume you mean 15.5 psi. Sounds reasonable. I don't know how much power mine makes. It's all stock heads/cam/pistons/exhaust/etc... I've just relied on track times and dragy to tell me if I'm making improvements or not.

I may get it on a dyno at some point, but right now, trying to make sure things are stable so I can be confident in a 1/4 mile pass without blowing something else up Feels strong, just haven't had a whole lot of time to work on the tune lately since repairing the front seal and getting the PC to Intercooler hose re-attached.

so help me out here because i am by no means good at math. i’m terrible at it. But i just did the math as in if you pick up .9 pounds per 100th and the 100th being the 5 in 3.85 then to get to 3.70 that would be 15/100ths which would be 13.5 and i’m currently already making 12 on the 3.85 pulley so add 13.5 psi to that and i got 25.5.

Definitely not trying to argue, just want more of an understanding of it because, well. i suck at math, and i would definitely like to have a better understanding of how to figure up boost for the different pulley sizes for future reference

[cjperformance]

Its more like 1 lb per 1/10" instead of 1/100th

Its just a rough estimate because it depends on crank pulley size, supercharger size (P1X vs D1X), rpm, and other mods.

But as far as i know going from a 3.85 to a 3.70 on the supercharger side would be anywhere in the neighborhood of .75 psi to 2.5 psi increase at most.

For example, i was making around 9.5 psi with a 4.13 pulley at 6500 rpm, going to a 3.70 its around 13 psi. Thats about .4 inch smaller and about 3.5 or so psi increase, which follows really close with the .9 psi per 1/10th estimate. If you have a smaller or larger crank pulley, the proportions will be slightly smaller or larger.

[BeauRichardson]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

Its more like 1 lb per 1/10" instead of 1/100th

Its just a rough estimate because it depends on crank pulley size, supercharger size (P1X vs D1X), rpm, and other mods.

But as far as i know going from a 3.85 to a 3.70 on the supercharger side would be anywhere in the neighborhood of .75 psi to 2.5 psi increase at most.

For example, i was making around 9.5 psi with a 4.13 pulley at 6500 rpm, going to a 3.70 its around 13 psi. Thats about .4 inch smaller and about 3.5 or so psi increase, which follows really close with the .9 psi per 1/10th estimate. If you have a smaller or larger crank pulley, the proportions will be slightly smaller or larger.

the crank pulley i have is the ATI balancer which i think the one i got was like 8 inches maybe? and so basically for me to run enough boost for 1k i’ll probably need a step lower than the 3.70

[cjperformance]

Everything has been back together for a few days. Replaced the worm style hose clamp with a tbolt style on the PC to lower intercooler connection.

Had to shim out the crash bar on the drivers side by about 1/8" to 3/16". The lower hose clamp had been in contact with the lower condenser tube. Wasnt able to get adequate clearance between the intercooler and crash bar to avoid the rubbing on the tube w/o shimming it out.

So inferior clamping force with the worm style clamp coupled with some contact between the clamp and condenser tube AND the addl boost was probably what caused that to pop off.

I have been doing some cautious tests with the 3.7" pulley, and everything holding together so far. Topped up on E85 and now at E74. Running amazing with this configuration. Still targeting .78 to .80 lambda for safety. Its going to be a while before im confident enough to do a full pull, and even longer before im confident in doing a 1/4 mile pass.

If it continues to live, ill be happy with this configuration.

[cjperformance]

May have found some explanation about the TCC slip and settings in the tune. I dont have the tune open in front of me, so explaining from memory

Not sure why it was done this way, but the tune has the TCC regulator offset set at 80 psi. It appears that stock is around 20 psi...

I had been wondering why the TCC desired pressure caused slip at the stock setting of 114 psi, when others with a similar setup reported no slip. When I was on the 4.13 pulley, the pressure was increased by the tuner from 114 psi to 200 psi and slip went away.

Again, not sure why regulator offset was changed... but if the regulator offset does what i think it does then the 200 psi is really just 140 psi. In other words, the current 80 psi minus stock 20 psi means all the numbers are inflated by 60 psi in the tune. So 200 psi - 60 psi is 140 psi. And when the tune was originally provided, the value of 114 was really 54 psi.

The values in the apply ramp were also hugely inflated over stock too. Probably to account for the increased regulator offset. Ill try to remeber to post actual table data later.

Anyway... it just didnt add up to me leading me to believe that at 200 psi of pressure i was still getting TCC slip. Made me think it was a mechanical issue....

Who knows maybe it still is..... but after i compared some other tune info... it makes more sense that the TCC regulator offset is making those pressure values appear higher than they actually are. And if i can verify that, then i feel more confident in adding some addl pressure to the TCC desired pressure to try to get full lockup.

Would be nice to see an actual tune file where this is all working on a similar setup. If you are willing to share, PM me.

[grampa_ss]

Mine is
(TCM) 35050 TCC Max Allowed Pressure = 250.0 psi accross the board.
my offset is also 80 psi.
regulator gain 0.360
TCC desired pressure max's out at 114 (which is the stock setting)
TCC Apply Pressure Ramp is also higher everything to the right of "0"

TC will completely lock up.

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by grampa_ss

Mine is
(TCM) 35050 TCC Max Allowed Pressure = 250.0 psi accross the board.
my offset is also 80 psi.
regulator gain 0.360
TCC desired pressure max's out at 114 (which is the stock setting)
TCC Apply Pressure Ramp is also higher everything to the right of "0"

TC will completely lock up.

Thanks for sharing that. VERY helpful to see actual data.

I added 20 psi to the max desired pressure, gave things a good thrashing, and it looks like it had ZERO impact on slip. I'm not going to add any more pressure because honestly, even that was a shot in the dark and I may roll that back.

Good news is that I got the shift points under control and its peaking at a much more reasonable 11.5 psi. This is perfect and exactly where I want it given the 90 degree temps today.

From the MAF/CYL numbers, etc... there was no real difference between the accidental 13-14 psi numbers and these 11.5 psi numbers. There was a pretty big temp difference. When I got 13-14 psi, it was 73 degrees out and today its 90... The fact that there was no difference in measured airflow between 13.5 psi @ 73 degrees and 11.5 psi @ 90 degrees probably means the bottleneck is somewhere else, thinking on the cam/exhaust side of things. Which exhaust is something I'll consider, but no cam in the near future.

So I'm still equally split here on whether the tcc slip is real and the values in the log are just bogus. If it IS real then i'm leaning mechanical issue.

I guess next step is to post on HPT forum and see if anyone has any insight there. I'm not tearing out the tranny unless something is obviously going wrong there. I'll just change it to shift unlocked at wot before I do that

Super happy with this configuration except for the unknown TCC issues.

[grampa_ss]

Agree to changing to shift unlocked. I did that too. You can see it in the logs too. If you want to test if it’s mechanical or not. I’d set the TUTD to stock converter settings and set the shift points to 30,60,90,118. Stock setting has the converter locking right away. I’d wait until 2nd gear around 45-50 to nail/roll in to it. Converter will be definitively locked at that point. Then check logs to see if it stayed locked. It worked for me anyways. I could see the slip and when it locks.