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Old 04-06-2018, 01:14 PM   #15
RXtacy
 
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Note* When going back to stock wheels (no spacer) you will need longer lug nuts. At least 2" long, or open ended.

I had extended lugs ~1.75" but they were too short still.
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Old 05-22-2018, 12:50 AM   #16
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Stud Clearance with Knuckle?

Thanks RXtacy! Beyond grateful for this. Curious, did you happen to check the clearance of the ARP studs with the knuckle before you removed the hub? I'd like to avoid removing the hub if I can and install the extended studs using the washer stack/impact method but I'm not sure if there is enough room behind it given the need for a steeper angle of install with the longer stud. Does that makes sense? I know for sure the 1" longer would be a no go without removing the hub, but I think I have a shot with 0.5" It looks so different depending upon the angle of the photo! I'd also be working on the 1LE setup. Thanks man!
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Old 05-22-2018, 08:04 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dissonance View Post
Thanks RXtacy! Beyond grateful for this. Curious, did you happen to check the clearance of the ARP studs with the knuckle before you removed the hub? I'd like to avoid removing the hub if I can and install the extended studs using the washer stack/impact method but I'm not sure if there is enough room behind it given the need for a steeper angle of install with the longer stud. Does that makes sense? I know for sure the 1" longer would be a no go without removing the hub, but I think I have a shot with 0.5" It looks so different depending upon the angle of the photo! I'd also be working on the 1LE setup. Thanks man!
Yes you can get the 0.5" longer studs in from the back without removing the hub.
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Old 06-20-2018, 11:35 PM   #18
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Would this procedure be the same for the rears.
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Old 07-20-2018, 11:44 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hot 2017 View Post
Would this procedure be the same for the rears.

Same question and also I wonder if the ZL1 1LE has any other exceptions?
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Old 07-28-2018, 08:35 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RXtacy View Post
Note* When going back to stock wheels (no spacer) you will need longer lug nuts. At least 2" long, or open ended.

I had extended lugs ~1.75" but they were too short still.

Would you care to share what lugs you got? I’ll be running an apex wheel with a spacer and would be way more comfortable having longer studs but will still have my stock wheels for street use
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Old 07-30-2018, 08:45 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hot 2017 View Post
Would this procedure be the same for the rears.
No it would be different due to the axles. I haven't looked to see if you can get a stud in with the rear hubs on the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mspeed1LE View Post
Same question and also I wonder if the ZL1 1LE has any other exceptions?
I wouldn't expect there to be any major differences on the ZL1 1LE fronts, but I haven't looked at one up close.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Move_Over View Post
Would you care to share what lugs you got? I’ll be running an apex wheel with a spacer and would be way more comfortable having longer studs but will still have my stock wheels for street use
I got cheap lugs off amazon, but anything that is at least 2" long will work with both factory and Apex setup.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 09-02-2018, 04:57 PM   #22
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Just wanted to circle back on this thread and give my .02c, you do not have to pull off the rotor, caliper, or hub to do this mod (however i do appreciate the OP's efforts, as i was going to use this originally).

You can simply knock out the studs with everything still in tact. For the passengers side, you can knock out the stud at the 9 Oclock position and pull it thru the two caliper bolts. Put the new stud in and you can pull it through with a stud installer tool and a lug nut, or two washers and a M14x1.5 nut.

On the drivers side, you will knock out the stud again in the 9 oclock position, however this time is is opposite of the caliper that it will come out.

This took me literally 5 minutes per side. Super, super easy to do on the 1LE's simply because of almost no dust shield.

Tools needed:
2lb sledge
https://www.amazon.com/TopBuilt-sled...+sledge+hammer

Wheel installer tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-W...stud+installer

22MM socket, and either an impact wrench, or large 1/2 drive ratchet to pull the stud through (need a partner to hit the brakes for this method).
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Old 10-21-2018, 06:27 PM   #23
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Here are some pics of the ZL1 1LE, I’m swapping out both front and rear studs...the rear is going to be a PÍA due to the parking brake and everything else covering the studs. I would appreciate any info on the parking brake removal. 😨
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Old 02-23-2019, 06:16 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Move_Over View Post
Just wanted to circle back on this thread and give my .02c, you do not have to pull off the rotor, caliper, or hub to do this mod (however i do appreciate the OP's efforts, as i was going to use this originally).

You can simply knock out the studs with everything still in tact. For the passengers side, you can knock out the stud at the 9 Oclock position and pull it thru the two caliper bolts. Put the new stud in and you can pull it through with a stud installer tool and a lug nut, or two washers and a M14x1.5 nut.

On the drivers side, you will knock out the stud again in the 9 oclock position, however this time is is opposite of the caliper that it will come out.

This took me literally 5 minutes per side. Super, super easy to do on the 1LE's simply because of almost no dust shield.

Tools needed:
2lb sledge
https://www.amazon.com/TopBuilt-sled...+sledge+hammer

Wheel installer tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-W...stud+installer

22MM socket, and either an impact wrench, or large 1/2 drive ratchet to pull the stud through (need a partner to hit the brakes for this method).
Do you have pics showing how the stud can come through with all the brakes in place?
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Old 02-23-2019, 07:40 PM   #25
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I had the rotors off and used a ball joint separator I’ve had for years. It’s the one called out in Service Manual (J-43631) and Lisle 22800 stud installer. Just a few minutes per side. Cut bullet nose off each stud so stock length but 12mm more threads. No hammering required.
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:42 AM   #26
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How much longer is the Silverado studs over ours?
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Old 06-11-2019, 07:23 AM   #27
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FYI, PTC 97419 studs work too. I ordered them from Rock Auto $1.10 each (much cheaper than Dorman or ARP). They're ~ 15mm longer overall, but have ~24mm more thread engagement, due to being threaded longer.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...841348&jsn=254
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Old 06-17-2019, 01:13 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeromeS13 View Post
FYI, PTC 97419 studs work too. I ordered them from Rock Auto $1.10 each (much cheaper than Dorman or ARP). They're ~ 15mm longer overall, but have ~24mm more thread engagement, due to being threaded longer.
Looks like they're sold out on rock auto. Can anyone confirm whether or not the Silverado ones would fit?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...434385&jsn=434

$10/stud for ARP seems like a huge rip off for a wheel stud.
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