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Old 05-26-2023, 09:14 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpevans View Post
This is 2023 we have fuel injection not a carb, in the days of old you had to let the engine warm up because you had a choke. Computers take care of air fuel mixture now.
Not sure who you're updating on the year and current technology, but in defense of the "the days of old", drivers were wise to pay attention to what was happening under the hood. Now we do have the luxury to start'em up and go. Just put it in 'R' or 'D' and go. But I also prefer to let things idle down and take the manual shifter thru the gates a couple of times before proceeding.

Last edited by Ventmaster; 05-28-2023 at 12:51 PM.
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Old 05-26-2023, 10:09 PM   #16
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All my cars I wait at least until the RPMs are below 1,000 to put it in gear, however the Camaro always gets at least a 3-5 minute warm up on a cold start before I move it... ("Cold Start" being the first start of the day or more than a few hours since it has been run)
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Last edited by 2SS Capt; 05-27-2023 at 12:18 AM.
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Old 05-26-2023, 10:39 PM   #17
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The car literally tells you when it's ready, the RPMs come down to the normal idle. Now, there is some jerkyness/injection stuff as it's warming up in the first mile or so, so you can drive in a higher gear to fix that easily.
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Old 05-26-2023, 11:45 PM   #18
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I let my ZL1 warm up before pulling off even in warmer weather but especially in cold weather for sure.
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Old 05-27-2023, 12:32 AM   #19
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Idle until rpms go down (takes around 20 seconds). Shift before 3k rpm until engine oil starts to warm up. Then send it.
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Old 05-27-2023, 01:25 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yiweno View Post
Idle until rpms go down (takes around 20 seconds). Shift before 3k rpm until engine oil starts to warm up. Then send it.


This should be added to the owners manual verbatim.
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Old 05-28-2023, 07:26 AM   #21
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When you 1st crank, the vehicle is operating in open loop until the O2 sensors can warm up and take an accurate reading to move into closed loop control. It's operating off a table and not feedback. This condition should only take a few seconds while the sensor's internal heater has the opportunity to warm up the sensing element.

You also have a period of cat light off to warm up the converters so that they'll be doing thir job. I think this takes a little longer depending on the situation. The car may have generally higher RPM and hold gears longer to generate heat to get the cats to fire, maybe dump more fuel too. This might be some of the difference you're experiencing as well.

During these conditions you might experience some drivability differences versus when the vehicle is warmed-up and approaching operating temperatures and the combustion system is in feedback control. A good tuner (of which I am not) would probably know a lot more about these interactions and the inputs to explain the performance you're seeing.
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