[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

hey!

Too soon…?

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Wellgass93

See and that makes me want to just bite the bullet and spend a little more for this setup:

Lower Pump https://deatschwerks.com/products/9-000-7003
REFLEX+ https://toohighpsi.com/products/reflex
BOSCH Extended 800cc/min https://toohighpsi.com/products/genu...-fuel-injector
Vindicator 2 https://toohighpsi.com/products/vind...-sc-port-plate
flex fuel https://wildhammermotorsports.com/16...it-wildhammer/
turbos https://www.huronspeed.com/products/...turbo-kit-race
Piston/Rod https://gwatneyperformance.com/produ...BoCs5IQAvD_BwE
wideband O2 still looking

I guess the final question here is, what is a safe HP for the build?
@Joshinator99
@KingLT1

If you do the GPI drop ins and a full heavy duty fuel system, then you can rock and roll. Those drop ins are good for about 1K WHP. I’ve been up against that power number for nearly 3 years now and can say they’re really good.

For a wideband, there is only one choice: the AEM 30-0334 as it communicates via canbus and you can datalog it with HP Tuners.

[KingLT1]

I believe the SBE will survive as long as you run E, don't go above 11psi, and run more than 19-20 degrees timing on the street.

This is what I have been running on my SBE for years and it's still alive.

But I agree with Josh, it might be best to keep boost around 8-9psi, 20 degrees, and E. Should make 620-650 and live a long life.

[Wellgass93]

Ordering the port injected stuff today most likely, picked up the lt4 lp for that + piston/rod for certain now. I am going to do a 750 build most likely, unless I go ahead and get the dual pump..
For the 750+ decision..
@ joshinator, the tune shop said valve covers, springs, etc. And they said there's a new recal on the crank now 6 months ago for the 19+, possibly my car.
They said lt1 bullet proof requires a little bit more than the rod/pistons but I didn't catch everything they said.
Something about the valves. Maybe the springs, and maybe the crank.
Secondly, my rear will hold up?
Third, they recommended 750 before I make the big jump incase I find that it's sufficient. Maybe that's a good choice, but ofc they want repeat business..

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Wellgass93

Ordering the port injected stuff today most likely, picked up the lt4 lp for that + piston/rod for certain now. I am going to do a 750 build most likely, unless I go ahead and get the dual pump..
For the 750+ decision..
@ joshinator, the tune shop said valve covers, springs, etc. And they said there's a new recal on the crank now 6 months ago for the 19+, possibly my car.
They said lt1 bullet proof requires a little bit more than the rod/pistons but I didn't catch everything they said.
Something about the valves. Maybe the springs, and maybe the crank.
Secondly, my rear will hold up?
Third, they recommended 750 before I make the big jump incase I find that it's sufficient. Maybe that's a good choice, but ofc they want repeat business..

If you’re doing a cam, then springs & lifters should be done (LS7 lifters are ok, Johnson is best). CamMotion is great to deal with. Maybe King will chime in…he might have a suggestion too on the best grind for you. I let CamMotion pick mine and they did not hold back.

You don’t need aftermarket valve covers. Stock ones baffle the best (although the new TooHighPSI ones might take the crown now that they’re out…plus they’re sexy lol).

LT1 crank is forged from the factory and can take a pounding assuming you have properly balanced rods/pistons and don’t detonate the crap out of it.

Stock SS diff has proven to be surprisingly reliable. Not saying you couldn’t break it, but it’s not even close to the top of your list. Stock SS driveshaft will need attention if you bolt up stick drag tires….followed by half shafts next.

Just my 2 cents

[Wellgass93]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uNkFp5L3V0o
Haven't seen any recommendations on this. Thinking of cutting this panel and making a latch system if I upgrade from the lt4 pump down the road..
Thoughts?
If I do this, I will probably do some gasket/ weather stripping and maybe spray the metal with undercoat to stop any noise.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Wellgass93

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uNkFp5L3V0o
Haven't seen any recommendations on this. Thinking of cutting this panel and making a latch system if I upgrade from the lt4 pump down the road..
Thoughts?
If I do this, I will probably do some gasket/ weather stripping and maybe spray the metal with undercoat to stop any noise.

Dropping the tank isn’t hard or particularly time consuming. Not sure I’d take advice from that guy anyway.

[Wellgass93]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Dropping the tank isn’t hard or particularly time consuming. Not sure I’d take advice from that guy anyway.

Any way to avoid dropping the driveshaft?
Already having to do the vert support and exhaust(I'll do this at the same time as the turbo install if I don't make the pump hatch).