[coruiz]

Originally Posted by Laststandard

Actually, I didn't trim the 60663's. I kept trimming back the stock pipes until the Borla's fit. Not a perfect fit on the clamps but I've put on about 150 miles and no o2 codes yet.

I didn't trust myself to not stab something under that car with a sawzall.. that's why I went with the exhaust pipe cutter.

Any Pics?

[Ventmaster]

Originally Posted by Laststandard

Actually, I didn't trim the 60663's. I kept trimming back the stock pipes until the Borla's fit. Not a perfect fit on the clamps but I've put on about 150 miles and no o2 codes yet.

I didn't trust myself to not stab something under that car with a sawzall.. that's why I went with the exhaust pipe cutter.

It is a rush trying to control the sawzall under the car and I think you're right- if the pipes aren't round, the sleeve clamp will likely leak and you probably won't get a CEL from a leak that far back. Look for excess carbon/blow-by at the end of the clamps to be sure.

Also keep in mind the 2nd cat's job is to convert carbon monoxide into carbon dioxide (the monoxide has no smell to give you any warning).

[coruiz]

I wonder if by cutting the cross brace GM welds on the stock mid pipes, you have more flexibility to fit the 60663 to the stock mid pipes

[GooseSS]

Sub'd

[Laststandard]

Pic attached of spot being talked about. Exhaust flow is from right to left - flex joints are towards the rear of the car.

There's really not a straight section of pipe in there. In front of the the pipes bend pretty quick towards the sides of the car into the secondary cats.

Cutting the brace and grinding everything smooth would yield the most workable length. I cut the pipes farther down - just ahead of the marks by the flex joint. The Vibrant clamp is long enough that it extends past the factory dimple in the pipe to clamp on the round section.

[Ventmaster]

Well done! Anything worth doing... but it had to be a PIA to remove the entire exhaust. I'm sure it will be worth it in the long run.

If a person ante's up for the full 60606, you can by-pass removal of the stock NPP muffler ( which is really not that big a job, but...), and just cut both pipes about 8" out from the muffler (more room for a sawzall, I promise) and use the same sleeve clamps (https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-Perfo.../dp/B009OLRGN0) the 3.5" width of the clamps allows for plenty of flexibility in how exact you need to be with your cuts and make this job a bit easier and a bit louder cuz the longer Borla pipes do away with any other crimps or crushed sections of the cat back- but it will cost you another $300.

Thanks again to David Borla for making good on his promise to make this inexpensive DIY possible. There is always more effort and work involved when something costs you less. But more satisfaction with a job well done too!

[Booher]

I thought it would be easier than it will be, and if I had known, I would of just gotten the 60606. I'm really afraid of drone, is the main reason I didnt buy it. Im kicking myself now though, dog! My clamps finally came yesterday, but I'm out of town for work, so hopefully this weekend. Kind of wish I could go back in time and buy the full kit. Really not looking forward to doing it all and have an exhaust leak, I guess only time will tell. I appreciate all the help and picture, it really helped give me an idea of what I'm about to get myself into, heh.

[Laststandard]

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

Well done! Anything worth doing... but it had to be a PIA to remove the entire exhaust. I'm sure it will be worth it in the long run.

It's not that bad.. if you have a helper. Remove the cross brace, WD40 on the rubber hangers to help them come off, unbolt the rearmost hangers for the suitcase. Toughest part is wedging your hand in to disconnect the NPP valves.

I'm glad the released this option - but I'll bet the way it mates up to the factory exhaust is why they didn't initially. It's not a perfect solution but it works.

Only picture I remembered to take of the clamps. I ended up moving them back a bit more to help them seal better.

[coruiz]

Originally Posted by Laststandard

It's not that bad.. if you have a helper. Remove the cross brace, WD40 on the rubber hangers to help them come off, unbolt the rearmost hangers for the suitcase. Toughest part is wedging your hand in to disconnect the NPP valves.

I'm glad the released this option - but I'll bet the way it mates up to the factory exhaust is why they didn't initially. It's not a perfect solution but it works.

Only picture I remembered to take of the clamps. I ended up moving them back a bit more to help them seal better.

Did you happen to measure the distance between the flex joints and the beginning of the Borla pipe? The reason I ask is because I am trying to install the Flowmaster X Pipe and the instructions mention to measure 7 inches from the flex joint forward.

[IH8WNTR]

When I get to do this, I was thinking of using a pipe expander to swedge the pipes in. I haven’t gotten under the car to take a good look at it. Anyone see a problem doing it that way?

[trohde78]

Originally Posted by Booher

I thought it would be easier than it will be, and if I had known, I would of just gotten the 60606. I'm really afraid of drone, is the main reason I didnt buy it. Im kicking myself now though, dog! My clamps finally came yesterday, but I'm out of town for work, so hopefully this weekend. Kind of wish I could go back in time and buy the full kit. Really not looking forward to doing it all and have an exhaust leak, I guess only time will tell. I appreciate all the help and picture, it really helped give me an idea of what I'm about to get myself into, heh.

If I'm not mistaken, the cat delete pipes are the same as the first section of the 60606 mid-pipe. Perhaps, Borla would be kind enough to sell you the pipes to make it into a 60606.

[Ventmaster]

Originally Posted by Booher

I thought it would be easier than it will be, and if I had known, I would of just gotten the 60606. I'm really afraid of drone, is the main reason I didnt buy it. Im kicking myself now though, dog! My clamps finally came yesterday, but I'm out of town for work, so hopefully this weekend. Kind of wish I could go back in time and buy the full kit. Really not looking forward to doing it all and have an exhaust leak, I guess only time will tell. I appreciate all the help and picture, it really helped give me an idea of what I'm about to get myself into, heh.

Don't beat yourself up Booher. I've posted elsewhere that the 60606 combined with Track mode on the NPP is loud enough IMHO to draw too much attention in city driving and I've found myself actually backing off the throttle to avoid interaction with "the Man!". I think you're gonna save money and have the best combination seriously good sound without being antisocial!

It may take a bit more effort but will be worth it.

[Laststandard]

Originally Posted by IH8WNTR

When I get to do this, I was thinking of using a pipe expander to swedge the pipes in. I haven’t gotten under the car to take a good look at it. Anyone see a problem doing it that way?

Yes, because there's just not a good section of straight pipe. I think you're better off using a Vibrant clamp.

Originally Posted by coruiz

Did you happen to measure the distance between the flex joints and the beginning of the Borla pipe? The reason I ask is because I am trying to install the Flowmaster X Pipe and the instructions mention to measure 7 inches from the flex joint forward.

I did not. Just looked at the instructions for the flowmaster - you'll have to cut down the borla if you're using the 60663 pipes.

[coruiz]

Originally Posted by Laststandard

Yes, because there's just not a good section of straight pipe. I think you're better off using a Vibrant clamp.



I did not. Just looked at the instructions for the flowmaster - you'll have to cut down the borla if you're using the 60663 pipes.

Yea that's the plan. I'll probably install the borla to the stock exhaust, measure per the FM instructions and cut the borla.