Lines in paint after I taped off a section will not come out! - Page 4 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

CamaroDreams07 · 12-17-2010, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B6pilot

I actually bought the car from Becky at Rodgers Chevrolet and we had it drop shipped to Florida. Well it looks like Festivas has come early for me! I got a call from Jerry the service manager from Rodgers Chevrolet. He heard about my hood from this thread and made some calls to my local dealer. They are going to cover my hood under warranty! I guess some money just freed up to by some Adams supplies! I can't say enough good things about Jerry and Becky, it's good to know that there are people like that around to help! Thanks to everyone that commented on this thread

Awesome result! Shows there're still good people out there!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russell James

I highly doubt there is anything wrong with the clear. You burned through. Happens all the time by DIYers with power tools and abrasive compounds. I'd switch brands and not tape off the small areas. Taping like that and buffing up to the edge will leave a ridge. Then when you remove that ridge with more abrasive buffing on the same area, at some point it's going to get pretty thin. A hair too much heat, and done.

Ok why don't you make a video of a PC and Wolfgang SHR showing what it takes to burn through clear with a PC. It simply isn't realistic? Haven't you seen Junkman laying on his Corvette in one spot at full speed? The PC just isn't going to do that damage.

ORANGA2D · 12-17-2010, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Well it looks like Festivas has come early for me! I got a call from Jerry the service manager from Rodgers Chevrolet. He heard about my hood from this thread and made some calls to my local dealer. They are going to cover my hood under warranty!

Nice, Kudos to Jerry @Rodgers Chevrolet!!!

B6pilot · 12-17-2010, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CamaroDreams07

Awesome result! Shows there're still good people out

Ok why don't you make a video of a PC and Wolfgang SHR showing what it takes to burn through clear with a PC. It simply isn't realistic? Haven't you seen Junkman laying on his Corvette in one spot at full speed? The PC just isn't going to do that damage.

I'll donate the wolfgang SHR!

Capthowdy · 12-18-2010, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russell James

I highly doubt there is anything wrong with the clear. You burned through. Happens all the time by DIYers with power tools and abrasive compounds. I'd switch brands and not tape off the small areas. Taping like that and buffing up to the edge will leave a ridge. Then when you remove that ridge with more abrasive buffing on the same area, at some point it's going to get pretty thin. A hair too much heat, and done.

have you seen how a PC works? its not a rotary tool....not much if any heat builds up....thats why it can take quite a few passes to fix paint with it but its a lot safer for a newbie....

Junkman2008 · 12-18-2010, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B6pilot

I'll donate the wolfgang SHR!

I'll bring the popcorn and stadium seating! This I want to see too!

B6pilot · 01-15-2011, 03:20 PM

Just an update, I got the car back this week. They painted the hood and haven't put the stripes on yet. They told me the paint needed to sit for a week before they could stripe it (cure time, something about gas bubbles forming under the stripe?) Anyway everything look good except for the swirls until I got it into my garage under florescent lights.There must be 100 plus dust/dirt marks in the paint. There is a rough razor like spot from the clear right where the hood latch was (that one hurt the first time I found it), and clear over spray on the fender

. The dealer told me they can wet sand the dirt out next week but I'm not sure that's the answer I wanted to here. If they sand the clear, wont I just be in the same spot I was with thin clear? It looks like they sprayed the car and immediately took it outside before it was ready and dust settled into it (rush job). Well, I guess nothing is easy, oh ya, they dameged my passenger front and rear rims :(

Junkman2008 · 01-15-2011, 03:41 PM

Dang dude, where did you take it? You need to let people know who is doing that crappy work.

Whatever you do, don't work on it yourself. Point out everything you have a complaint about to them and have them fix it all. Don't back down. You paid to have it fixed so get your money's worth.

CFCreations · 01-16-2011, 12:17 AM

minor dust nibs can be wet sanded and then buffed out of the clear coat. It all depends on how deep the nibs go and how much clear coat they applied. If they have a paint booth it should have been left to cure inside the paint booth for at least a couple hours before being rolled out. or if they roll it anywhere imediately after the booth it should be into an oven to cure. Some higher tech paint shops have a booth attached to a secondary curing oven... it doesn't get very hot just hot enough to cure the paint faster than air dry. Also keeping the paint booth clean and free of dust is important and changing the booth filters regularly. Bottom line is if you want them to repaint the car... just tell them that, but if they have quality control problems on a regular basis it won't help having them redo the work.

Never try buffing if you aren't a pro.... or at minimum go practice on lesser paint jobs until you perfect the techniques and find the right buffing products for you. Nobody should be selling auto parts store "polishers". I've seen so many poorly polished/buffed, they are easy to spot. Pay a professional auto detailer if you need something buffed or machine polished.... or practice as mentioned before.

Junkman2008 · 01-16-2011, 01:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CFCreations

...Never try buffing if you aren't a pro.... or at minimum go practice on lesser paint jobs until you perfect the techniques and find the right buffing products for you...

I would add to that, never try buffing with a rotary polisher if you are not a pro. An orbital like the PC is a lot different and much safer option.

B6pilot · 01-16-2011, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

I would add to that, never try buffing with a rotary polisher if you are not a pro. An orbital like the PC is a lot different and much safer option.

I wouldn't even think about touching that hood! I can actually feel the dust/dirt with my hand in the paint. The car goes back on Monday for them to repair again. So far they are stepping up on taking responsibility (I don't want to bad mouth them if they do the right thing, mistakes happen).

Hey Junkman, do you ever do any detailing clinics in Florida?

I'll keep you guys updated on the progress

B6pilot

Junkman2008 · 01-16-2011, 10:12 AM

I haven't done anything in Florida yet but there's definitely a demand. Who knows...!

Mike2ss · 02-28-2011, 10:39 PM

wow, some luck. hope all turns out well, keep us posted.

01-15-2011, 03:20 PM	#48
B6pilot Drives: 1967 Corvette, CGM 2SS/Rs M6 soon! Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Orlando FL Posts: 112	Just an update, I got the car back this week. They painted the hood and haven't put the stripes on yet. They told me the paint needed to sit for a week before they could stripe it (cure time, something about gas bubbles forming under the stripe?) Anyway everything look good except for the swirls until I got it into my garage under florescent lights.There must be 100 plus dust/dirt marks in the paint. There is a rough razor like spot from the clear right where the hood latch was (that one hurt the first time I found it), and clear over spray on the fender . The dealer told me they can wet sand the dirt out next week but I'm not sure that's the answer I wanted to here. If they sand the clear, wont I just be in the same spot I was with thin clear? It looks like they sprayed the car and immediately took it outside before it was ready and dust settled into it (rush job). Well, I guess nothing is easy, oh ya, they dameged my passenger front and rear rims :( __________________ SS/RS/CGM/Blk 1000 Ordered: 3/25/2010 1100 Order accepted at dealer: 3/25/2010 2000 Accepted by GM: 3/25/2010 2500 Preferenced: 3/31/2010 3000 Accepted By Production Control:4/1/2010 3300 Scheduled For Production: 04/06/2010 TPW 4/19 3400 Broadcast: 04/17/2010 3800 Produced: 04/23/2010 4000 Available To Ship: 4200 Shipped: 5000 Delivered To The Dealer: 6000 Delivered To Customer:

01-15-2011, 03:41 PM	#49
Junkman2008 "Detailing Devil Dog" Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 2,730	Dang dude, where did you take it? You need to let people know who is doing that crappy work. Whatever you do, don't work on it yourself. Point out everything you have a complaint about to them and have them fix it all. Don't back down. You paid to have it fixed so get your money's worth. __________________ "Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."

01-16-2011, 10:12 AM	#53
Junkman2008 "Detailing Devil Dog" Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 2,730	I haven't done anything in Florida yet but there's definitely a demand. Who knows...! __________________ "Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."

02-28-2011, 10:39 PM	#54
Mike2ss Airborne Pathfinder Drives: Camaro ZL575 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: San Benito, TX Posts: 1,139	wow, some luck. hope all turns out well, keep us posted. __________________ 2010 Camaro Indy 500 Pace car, LS3-ZL575 Other cars are- 95 BMW 325 sedan- AA exhaust, AA CAI, AA Strut bar, AA chip, M3 rotors and calipers, racing clutch, oversized injectors, upgraded M3 interior- Audi A4 SLine, with black out optics

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01-16-2011, 12:17 AM	#50
CFCreations Drives: None Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Glendale AZ Posts: 8	minor dust nibs can be wet sanded and then buffed out of the clear coat. It all depends on how deep the nibs go and how much clear coat they applied. If they have a paint booth it should have been left to cure inside the paint booth for at least a couple hours before being rolled out. or if they roll it anywhere imediately after the booth it should be into an oven to cure. Some higher tech paint shops have a booth attached to a secondary curing oven... it doesn't get very hot just hot enough to cure the paint faster than air dry. Also keeping the paint booth clean and free of dust is important and changing the booth filters regularly. Bottom line is if you want them to repaint the car... just tell them that, but if they have quality control problems on a regular basis it won't help having them redo the work. Never try buffing if you aren't a pro.... or at minimum go practice on lesser paint jobs until you perfect the techniques and find the right buffing products for you. Nobody should be selling auto parts store "polishers". I've seen so many poorly polished/buffed, they are easy to spot. Pay a professional auto detailer if you need something buffed or machine polished.... or practice as mentioned before.