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Old 08-09-2019, 05:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryephile View Post
I changed the anti-roll bars when I moved to Supercar 3R track tires. Hotchkis adjustable front and BMR adjustable rear bars, both on middle, gave 30% more roll stiffness and matched the dynamic wheel rates to the tire grip very well. That said, grip on the street went down; I was no longer able to take my reference on-ramp at the same peak speed [by about 1-2 MPH] as the street summer tires were now becoming overworked. Grip with winter tires was noticeably down, of course.

So my recommendation is to keep the FE4 bars unless your intent is lap times with sticky tires, street/wet grip be damned.
What he said
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Old 08-09-2019, 11:34 PM   #16
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I did Eibach swaybars in my Gen 5 SS, that combined with the strut bar and a chassis brace made it a much more precise and fun handling car.

That said, on my Gen 6 1LE, it's simply so far beyond the Gen 5 that there's no point. You go over a bump with one wheel and it shoots that over to the other side of the car with the sway bar. The 1LE already has more aggressive sway bars and the ride suffers due to this. Asymmetrical bumps (one side of the car goes over it) are transmitted side to side because of it and I find the "tour" setting to be less than stellar because it doesn't change the stiffness of the sways, so the higher damping rates on the more aggressive sport setting can be better at taming bumps sometimes due to taming the wheel movement more. I don't think swaybars would should be on your radar.
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Old 08-10-2019, 02:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesNoBrakes View Post
I did Eibach swaybars in my Gen 5 SS, that combined with the strut bar and a chassis brace made it a much more precise and fun handling car.

That said, on my Gen 6 1LE, it's simply so far beyond the Gen 5 that there's no point. You go over a bump with one wheel and it shoots that over to the other side of the car with the sway bar. The 1LE already has more aggressive sway bars and the ride suffers due to this. Asymmetrical bumps (one side of the car goes over it) are transmitted side to side because of it and I find the "tour" setting to be less than stellar because it doesn't change the stiffness of the sways, so the higher damping rates on the more aggressive sport setting can be better at taming bumps sometimes due to taming the wheel movement more. I don't think swaybars would should be on your radar.
I agree with this. I have always been in the stiffer sway bar camp, as I like a crisp/flat initial turn-in, but the downside to this is cross transfer of bumps from side to side.

I will say it does give the 1LE character though when driving it. Even though you get a bit of transfer , it resettles right away and never upsets the chassis.

IMO, the only things needed on the SS 1LE are a track alignment and solid rear cradle bushings. Everything else is perfect as is.

FYI, this is also the reason that if you read the Mustang PP2 VS 1LE review why the PP2 rides a little better over bumps that the 1LE. The PP2 has softer sway bars.
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Old 08-11-2019, 02:08 PM   #18
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I have the V6 1LE ... Which has suspension similar to the standard SS. In SCCA, I plan to compete locally in CAM-C, so I can run front and back bars. The car is well balanced but could use increased roll stiffness, and I don't want to lower the car on stock dampers. Any thoughts on the right bars for my car? I am getting a notion from this thread, but setup could be different on a lighter car without MRC.
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Old 08-11-2019, 06:59 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Roostie View Post
I have the V6 1LE ... Which has suspension similar to the standard SS. In SCCA, I plan to compete locally in CAM-C, so I can run front and back bars. The car is well balanced but could use increased roll stiffness, and I don't want to lower the car on stock dampers. Any thoughts on the right bars for my car? I am getting a notion from this thread, but setup could be different on a lighter car without MRC.
If you have essentially base SS suspension, you should talk to Jeff Wong at www.ProPartsusa.com. He’s taken his FS car to ESP and will have lots of good insights.
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Old 08-12-2019, 10:13 AM   #20
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Stiffer rear bar will give more oversteer, so I have no clue why everyone wants just a stiffer front bar in a car that understeers from the factory????
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:12 PM   #21
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Stiffer rear bar will give more oversteer, so I have no clue why everyone wants just a stiffer front bar in a car that understeers from the factory????
Because the rear has to put down power. Think about it for a few min.
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Old 08-15-2019, 12:40 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by JamesNoBrakes View Post
Because the rear has to put down power. Think about it for a few min.
Right... lets make it understeer more so the rear can stay planted to put the power down and make it push more than the more understeer we just gave it. More understeer+more understeer=most understeerest????
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Old 08-15-2019, 03:53 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by TheRealJA105 View Post
Right... lets make it understeer more so the rear can stay planted to put the power down and make it push more than the more understeer we just gave it. More understeer+more understeer=most understeerest????
Adding sway bars (or roll stiffness) to one end of a car over another isn't always as simple as:

-Adding front stiffness adds understeer.

-Adding rear stiffness adds oversteer.

Also, sway bars load a chassis different than springs.

In this discussion, if you are going to change the car it needs to be understood:
-Why is the car not doing what I want?
-How much of a change is needed?
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Old 08-15-2019, 08:54 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by TheRealJA105 View Post
Right... lets make it understeer more so the rear can stay planted to put the power down and make it push more than the more understeer we just gave it. More understeer+more understeer=most understeerest????
It’s going to skip and spin out with any slight imperfection if you make the rear too stiff. It won’t hold the road as well.
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Old 08-16-2019, 09:18 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain View Post

In this discussion, if you are going to change the car it needs to be understood:
-Why is the car not doing what I want?
-How much of a change is needed?
In this discussion he said he only drives on the street, so there should have been 1 reply and a closed thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesNoBrakes View Post
It’s going to skip and spin out with any slight imperfection if you make the rear too stiff. It won’t hold the road as well.
Who said to make it too stiff?????
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Old 08-18-2019, 12:07 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by TheRealJA105 View Post

Who said to make it too stiff?????
That is what you'd be doing with a stiffer rear sway, you'll have it so stiff that when you are cornering and encounter the tiniest bump, it'll unsettle the car and break rear traction in the turn or even straight ahead. This is why you can't just increase the stiffness of sway bars and expect the car to be faster around a course. The car was built to rule the track from the beginning. Stiffer sways can make a difference, but you'd likely need to adjust a bunch of other things to make it provide an benefit vs. the disadvantage of breaking traction due to bumps. At some point, a car is only useful on a smooth track due to regular roads having too many irregularities. I'm not talking about potholes or obvious bumps, but the normal small stuff that you never feel in a normal car, because the suspension sucks it up. Once you have limited travel, stiff springs and shocks (and sways) for handling and to resist lean and maximize traction, you are battling it out against these kinds of bumps to try and achieve a balance. Another way that this is handled is cars that make significant downforce at speed, to help plant the rear better. If you were going to increase downforce (and actually drive at speeds where this is generated), put better coil-over shocks on there (not just aftermarket ones, but ones that actually improve on the damping rates), stickier and even wider tires, etc., then maybe a stiffer rear sway may be in the cards, but it's often a give-and-take situation. It's understanding the total effects of a mod. Some mods can be done without adversely affecting the rest of the car, but these are often the least "gains" at the same time. Mods that offer more gains often have to be done in concert with a bunch of other mods to gain the benefit or not create a negative effect.
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Last edited by JamesNoBrakes; 08-18-2019 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 08-19-2019, 09:51 AM   #27
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WRONG
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Old 08-19-2019, 02:21 PM   #28
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EXPLAIN
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