[Ruby13]

Anyone install the Kicker HS-10 in the trunk and if so how is it and what was needed?!

[DamonZ28]

Do you have a Bose system in your car now? If you do, I can tell you what worked in my car.

[Ruby13]

yes I have the BOSE system 2ss

[DamonZ28]

Good deal, me too. Here's everything installed to make it work with the Bose system:

- Sub Thump Camaro With BOSE Plug N Play T-Harness With ANC Defeat Harness Kit, which plugs into the Bose amp in the trunk, in the spare tire area. This is a nice, neat harness to tap into the Bose wiring, without having to do a bunch of your own wire taps. The Bose system has Active Noise Canceling (ANC), which pumps counteracting noise into the car to reduce outside noise. If you don't delete this system, the ANC in the Bose system will try to counteract your subwoofer, and give you lots of awful noise through your speaker system. So it's absolutely necessary.
- The Sub Thump harness goes from the Bose amp to a Line Out Converter (LOC) of your choice. I went with a JL Audio LoC-22 line out converter (installed in jack area). The Audio Control LC2i is another popular option.
- RCA cables run the sound to your amp/subwoofer, as well as a power-on wire for the amp. The LOC is powered from the battery, as well as your amp/sub.

How to secure your amp/sub in the trunk? I still haven't figured out a good solution yet. I currently have velcro on the bottom of my sub box & amp board. I'm not driving the car much right now, but it's holding pretty well so far. Some have mounted their amps in the spare tire area, but mine was 2 inches too big, and I think this Kicker unit is also too big. Smaller amps could mount to the bottom of the rear deck, but again, mine (and yours) are too big. I supposed you could mount it to the back of the rear seat somehow, but not sure how you do it or if it would be secure. Hope I can figure that out by spring.

Here are some of my posts, kinda scattered around and it's still a work in progress. I need to clean it up quite a bit, but it's working well and sounds good.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=12
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...87&postcount=7

There are some other threads in this sub forum with additional info, but this is really all you'd need to get it going.

[Ruby13]

So the Kicker 46HS-10 is a small under unit with a built in AMP i'm not sure if I will need the LOC or not.

[DamonZ28]

The LOC processes the signal from the Bose amp, and transfers it to a signal that the Kicker unit (or any other amplifier) can use. The Kicker unit would not function without having the signal passing through & being processed by a LOC.

I guess I probably left out some necessary info - you need to use a LOC that is designed to process signals from a GM/Chevy Bose amp.

[Ruby13]

Sweeeet thanks for the info, this one should be pretty plug and play with everything with just the wires in the trunk correct?!

[Ruby13]

Been awhile since I messed with Audio in a car so just trying to make sure I connect all the pieces to the correct units in order

[DamonZ28]

My apologies if you already know most of this, but I'll write it as if you don't so that we don't miss anything. Before you begin, of course you'll want to disconnect the negative battery terminal.

The Sub Thump harness plugs directly into the Bose amp in the trunk, into the plug that is closest to the front of the car. Use the gray and white wires (left and right front channels) and hook them into your LOC. The front channels have a fuller, better sounding signal than the rear channels. Cap off the green wires, since you won't need them (left rear channel). This takes care of your LOC input wiring.

The ANC delete harness plugs into the Bose amp plug that is closest to the rear of the car, and the stock plug goes into the receptacle on that harness. That's all you need to do with that.

For the LOC output wiring, you'll need 16 gauge or 18 gauge (for the JL Audio unit, other units might have different requirements) positive & negative wiring. I used red & black for my application just to keep it simple & consistent. The red wire hooks directly to the battery positive terminal - I used the top screw-type terminal. The positive wire also needs a 1-amp inline fuse (again, for the JL Audio LOC, others might require something different). The black wire goes to a ground, of course. There are ground studs & nuts behind the panel that hides the battery. I connected to one that already had a wire grounded to it, as one of the empty ones didn't seem to work. You'll also need a power wire from the LOC to the Kicker unit, to power on the amp (remote turn on wire, typically a blue 16 or 18 gauge wire). I ordered a Sub & Amp wiring kit, which came with a remote power on wire. That connected to the remote turn-on receptacle on my amp. However, I see that your Kicker unit comes with wiring, including a blue remote turn on wire, so you'll just use that. Then of course, You'll hook up the RCA cables from the LOC directly to your Kicker unit. I'm not sure how the Kicker wiring harness is set up - I can't tell if the harness has RCA cables, or if you have to wire them in to the harness, but you'll need to wire them in if not (look at the manual and you'll see what I mean). The LOC only has RCA connections for output, not bare speaker connections. That finishes up the LOC wiring.

As I mentioned previously, your Kicker unit already comes with all of the wiring you need. Connect the red positive wire directly to the battery; I used the larger side post closest to the rear of the car. Normally you'd have to install an inline fuse, matching the fuse on the amp, but the Kicker wiring harness appears to already have one installed. The battery already has a heavy red positive wire connected to it, but I tried other terminals and they didn't work. Connect the black ground wire to a ground point in the trunk; I can't remember if I used the same ground point as the LOC, or directly to the battery, but I think I connected directly to the battery.

Make sure to fasten the LOC & Kicker unit down, and you should be good to go. As I've mentioned previously, I need to find a better way to fasten my amp & sub down, so unfortunately I'm not sure of the best way to accomplish that right now.

I need to get my install all cleaned up, take good pictures of all the steps and connections, and post a thread here so others can refer to it. Would be easier to do if the weather was warmer here in Wisconsin!

[Callaway SC630]

I think I had shown this pic before somewhere, but have you considered putting it vertically behind the seat?

I had the installer leave the wires long enough to relocate to the trunk area, but I really like it here.

[DamonZ28]

Originally Posted by Callaway SC630

I think I had shown this pic before somewhere, but have you considered putting it vertically behind the seat?

How is that mounted, or what is it mounted to? On my car, I don't think there's anything between the seat & the trunk? Your photo looks like there's a panel of some kind between the seat & the trunk.

[Callaway SC630]

It is behind the passenger seat and it just sits on the floor with the seat reclined how I like it and then powered back to hold it there. Even if you don't power the seat back the whole way, nothing is affected.

It will also lay on the rear floor when positioned with the short sides to the left and right.

[DamonZ28]

Originally Posted by Callaway SC630

It is behind the passenger seat and it just sits on the floor with the seat reclined how I like it and then powered back to hold it there. Even if you don't power the seat back the whole way, nothing is affected.

It will also lay on the rear floor when positioned with the short sides to the left and right.

I just saw your pic in another thread, it was zoomed out further and then I could see where it was at. I want to keep mine in the trunk area, but thanks for the suggestion!

[DamonZ28]

After reading through several threads in this subforum, it appears that many people are using velcro to fasten down their subs & amps. I'll probably do the same unless I come across a better option. Once you try it, you'll see how well even Walmart velcro sticks to the trunk carpet. My amp & sub haven't moved, as well as a small plastic bin that I store microfiber towels, spray cleaner, gloves, & some basic tools in. Try peeling the velcro off, and you'll see how well it sticks!