[dbs1]

Looks like 105%. What do your rotors look like now?

[NG329]

Originally Posted by dbs1

Looks like 105%. What do your rotors look like now?

Rotors are shot. I'll snap some pics when I mount the new ones possibly tomorrow.

[NG329]

Here's the link to the final vid I took of the day where I ground the brake pads to zero. Funny enough, my fastest time of the day happened during this run. 1:35.666 (1:35.67 in the video)

[Checkmate1]

The Hankook Ventus V12's are decent street tires but in no way do the ZLE justice on track.

[NG329]

Originally Posted by Checkmate1

The Hankook Ventus V12's are decent street tires but in no way do the ZLE justice on track.

Well, respectfully, considering that I was probably in the top 10 fastest guys attending the event I would say that you're wrong.

As a matter of fact, I'd go as far to say that no one on street tires went faster than me that day and I would have probably knocked a whole second off of my lap time with decent brakes.

For reference, at Thunderbolt in my experience and from what I have seen.

> 1:40 = Slow and needs improvement
1:37-1:39 = Getting there
1:33-1:36 = Adequately fast and in the top 5% - about as quick as you can go on street compounds with any type of consistency
1:30-1:32 = Very fast - usually track prepped, tuned, and race compound
< 1:29 = Fukken Fast!!!!!

[RamAir02]

Originally Posted by NG329

Well, respectfully, considering that I was probably in the top 10 fastest guys attending the event I would say that you're wrong.

As a matter of fact, I'd go as far to say that no one on street tires went faster than me that day and I would have probably knocked a whole second off of my lap time with decent brakes.

For reference, at Thunderbolt in my experience and from what I have seen.

> 1:40 = Slow and needs improvement
1:37-1:39 = Getting there
1:33-1:36 = Adequately fast and in the top 5% - about as quick as you can go on street compounds with any type of consistency
1:30-1:32 = Very fast - usually track prepped, tuned, and race compound
< 1:29 = Fukken Fast!!!!!

My best time at Thunderbolt is similar to your best (both of us on SC3R, per your original post). 1:33.30

Granted, I'm still a novice/intermediate driver. This was my fourth HPDE event and my first time at Thunderbolt, so I know there is more time to be gained as I improve and get to know the corners better.

So I bet the ZLE in factory form with just upgraded brake fluid can be in that 1:30-1:32 range if not under 1:30 with a more experienced, quicker driver.

[NG329]

Originally Posted by RamAir02

My best time at Thunderbolt is similar to your best (both of us on SC3R, per your original post). 1:33.30

Granted, I'm still a novice/intermediate driver. This was my fourth HPDE event and my first time at Thunderbolt, so I know there is more time to be gained as I improve and get to know the corners better.

So I bet the ZLE in factory form with just upgraded brake fluid can be in that 1:30-1:32 range if not under 1:30 with a more experienced, quicker driver.

I've had a good look at your vids. You and I will be in the 1:30-1:32 range by simply going flat out from 10-12 and also not touching the brakes heading into turn 6.

If you can run 1:33-1:35 consistently with clean lines and without missing wave-bys then you should be in Advanced group. You're definitely not a novice anymore. Times are only a part of the puzzle. There are guys running 1:38s in Miatas, etc. in Advanced Group so times aren't everything.

[ZL1 1LE]

Originally Posted by Cjw

I’ll have to take your word on that, never been a fan of those personally, had them on my 370 and was not impressed

Same, I had them on my formerly owned G37S and they were fine until you pushed them.

[RamAir02]

Originally Posted by NG329

I've had a good look at your vids. You and I will be in the 1:30-1:32 range by simply going flat out from 10-12 and also not touching the brakes heading into turn 6.

If you can run 1:33-1:35 consistently with clean lines and without missing wave-bys then you should be in Advanced group. You're definitely not a novice anymore. Times are only a part of the puzzle. There are guys running 1:38s in Miatas, etc. in Advanced Group so times aren't everything.

Thanks for the encouraging words. I agree about turns 10-12 and turn 6. My instructor signed me off for solo that weekend at NJMP Thunderbolt, so I'll keep working on progressing through the run groups. I suspect part of moving up is simply seat time (assuming driving line & safety are consistently good).

[NG329]

Here's an update (photos) on the brake rotors and rear pads. There's still a ton of rotor material left. Can anyone recommend someone in the NY NJ area who reconditions rotors? I'd like to keep them as emergency spares etc.

Rear Left Rotor


Rear Left Rotor with Pad/Caliper still installed


Front Left Rotor


Front Right Rotor


Rear outer pad from the left side


New Right Rear Rotor and Pad Installed


New Left Front Rotor and Pad Installed


I switched from the OEM rear Semi metallic Pads to a Ceramic Pad from the Auto Parts store. Now both Front and rear are Ceramic.

[Checkmate1]

I have ceramic pads (powerstop z26) and they are decent on the street with barely any dust. On spirited backroad runs, they don't have the same initial bite and do fade quickly compared to the stock pads.

[SFV1LE]

1. IMO, remove the ceramic pads from the auto parts store unless you plan to always swap them out for the OEM pads before track days.

By using those no-name pads, you converted your ZL1 from one of the best braking cars in the world to a very average braking car, and great brakes are also important on the street. The dust is a non issue, and OEM pads don't squeak

2. You should never come close to doing what you did to your pads and rotors, how did that happen? So easy to check pad thickness, and OEM pads are so cheap. Rotors are not cheap and mine have lasted through 3 years of track use (4 minus most of 2020)

[Checkmate1]

I have about 5 track events to date using OEM pads, my rotors still look great.

I am an advanced driver as well having done my stints this year at Summit Point and VIR at ambient temps ranging from 65' - 94'.

Always check your pads for minimum thickness before track events.

Can you also post pictures of the Hankook Ventus V12's after your track day? Curious about the wear on those tires considering you pushed hard.

[NG329]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

1. IMO, remove the ceramic pads from the auto parts store unless you plan to always swap them out for the OEM pads before track days.

By using those no-name pads, you converted your ZL1 from one of the best braking cars in the world to a very average braking car, and great brakes are also important on the street. The dust is a non issue, and OEM pads don't squeak

2. You should never come close to doing what you did to your pads and rotors, how did that happen? So easy to check pad thickness, and OEM pads are so cheap. Rotors are not cheap and mine have lasted through 3 years of track use (4 minus most of 2020)

I used OEM pads and rotors everywhere except for the rear pads which are ceramic. I have oem rear pads showing up today that I ordered.