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Old 09-30-2018, 03:35 PM   #281
TRZ06

 
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Mine is back after being fixed by GM a few weeks ago.

They said they used the updated washers when they did the TSB. Not sure if I should take it back to them for another attempt, or just replace them with BMR links.

I have 4 speed bumps I have to go over every morning and evening where I live and it happens everyday at least once or twice.
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Old 10-01-2018, 10:35 AM   #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRZ06 View Post
Mine is back after being fixed by GM a few weeks ago.

They said they used the updated washers when they did the TSB. Not sure if I should take it back to them for another attempt, or just replace them with BMR links.

I have 4 speed bumps I have to go over every morning and evening where I live and it happens everyday at least once or twice.

I mentioned Washers, but the service manager told me the TSB was for new bolts. It seems like the actual fix is nordlock washers with red-loctite. Any thoughts on that?
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Old 10-01-2018, 11:34 AM   #283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRZ06 View Post
Mine is back after being fixed by GM a few weeks ago.

They said they used the updated washers when they did the TSB. Not sure if I should take it back to them for another attempt, or just replace them with BMR links.

I have 4 speed bumps I have to go over every morning and evening where I live and it happens everyday at least once or twice.
There are no washers on these joints from the factory nor are washers added as a part of TSB PIC6276. The TSB only directs technicians to re-torque the joint, so not sure why your dealer is "updating washers." I'd suggest just putting some blue loctite on the lower joints and re-torquing to 89 ft-lb to see if that helps. I just did that on mine this weekend, so I'll be seeing how long that works.

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Originally Posted by Camaro 79 View Post
I mentioned Washers, but the service manager told me the TSB was for new bolts. It seems like the actual fix is nordlock washers with red-loctite. Any thoughts on that?
Again, the TSB doesn't require replacing any components, only re-torquing.

If you want to do it yourself, torques are listed inside the TSB (lower is 89 ft-lb, upper is 74 ft lb, lower is the one expected to be loose). Start by using BLUE loctite only, and if the clunk comes back after that try a nordlock washer and BLUE loctite. Whatever you do, DO NOT use red loctite unless you want to use a drill/grinder when you take the links off for replacement
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Old 10-01-2018, 01:18 PM   #284
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Just got mine back. Left front upper swaybar link nut was loose. They replaced the nut and inspected the other nuts for proper torque.
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Old 10-01-2018, 02:58 PM   #285
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Originally Posted by Alpha1BC View Post
There are no washers on these joints from the factory nor are washers added as a part of TSB PIC6276. The TSB only directs technicians to re-torque the joint, so not sure why your dealer is "updating washers." I'd suggest just putting some blue loctite on the lower joints and re-torquing to 89 ft-lb to see if that helps. I just did that on mine this weekend, so I'll be seeing how long that works.



Again, the TSB doesn't require replacing any components, only re-torquing.

If you want to do it yourself, torques are listed inside the TSB (lower is 89 ft-lb, upper is 74 ft lb, lower is the one expected to be loose). Start by using BLUE loctite only, and if the clunk comes back after that try a nordlock washer and BLUE loctite. Whatever you do, DO NOT use red loctite unless you want to use a drill/grinder when you take the links off for replacement
How about that, I was told the nuts were to be replaced. Another member had commented on the thread about nordlock washers and red loctite (because it pretty much never comes lose again), but I do see what you're saying. How long does it typically take you to do the above? Also, do you use a lift?
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Old 10-01-2018, 05:19 PM   #286
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I mentioned Washers, but the service manager told me the TSB was for new bolts. It seems like the actual fix is nordlock washers with red-loctite. Any thoughts on that?
I said washers, but I meant nuts. I think the new nuts are supposed to be self locking.

Either case, I am not sure how I want to proceed yet.
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Old 10-02-2018, 07:55 AM   #287
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I said washers, but I meant nuts. I think the new nuts are supposed to be self locking.

Either case, I am not sure how I want to proceed yet.
Gotcha gotcha. Keep me posted, I'd like to hear your thoughts! My clunk has gone away, but I'm sure it is only a matter of time before it comes back.
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Old 10-02-2018, 03:45 PM   #288
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Well found this yesterday while doing the oil change.
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Old 10-02-2018, 04:32 PM   #289
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Well found this yesterday while doing the oil change.
That's not good. That isn't the end link though right? What bar is that?
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Old 10-02-2018, 04:55 PM   #290
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Well found this yesterday while doing the oil change.
That's worthy of a complaint to NHTSA.
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/


This $#!t ain't supposed to be falling off our cars!
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:08 PM   #291
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That's not good. That isn't the end link though right? What bar is that?
It was the stab link. Chevy ended up replacing both links with "updated" nuts. So we'll see how it holds. The service manager accused me to tracking the car, and that's why it came off. Funny thing was that I came in for service a week before for the same thing and I haven't been on the track for over a month.
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Old 10-03-2018, 03:51 PM   #292
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It was the stab link. Chevy ended up replacing both links with "updated" nuts. So we'll see how it holds. The service manager accused me to tracking the car, and that's why it came off. Funny thing was that I came in for service a week before for the same thing and I haven't been on the track for over a month.
Does GM warranty only the 1LE models for track duty? I thought they covered track adventures if you are stock, but maybe that only applies to 1LE models
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Old 10-03-2018, 06:33 PM   #293
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Does GM warranty only the 1LE models for track duty? I thought they covered track adventures if you are stock, but maybe that only applies to 1LE models
They do. The SM was being a Dbag.
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Old 10-16-2018, 12:03 PM   #294
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Mine was in for Code P050D which 2 fuel injectors were replaced and the links were supposedly tightened about 3 weeks ago. Before that visit I had new tires put on and the clunk disappeared for a couple of days before going to the dealer. Since I got it back from the dealer the clunk was gone for about 5 days and has since returned. So I don’t know if something else is loose or maybe a bad strut. As much as these Camaros cost Chevy needs to be more proactive on the inspection process before leaving the factory. At least the Canadian built Camaros that I have owned never had these kind of problems that are plaguing the 6 Gens.
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