09-12-2015, 09:03 PM | #1 |
Drives: 1LE Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Northern wasteland.
Posts: 232
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Warning to those who want to track their cars with stock fluid.
someone who isnt me tracked his car with stock brake fluid, and to his surprise he completely lost braking power. pedal went straight to the floor, and unless pumped 2-3 times, no brakes at all.
the car had z28 brake ducts installed. and stock everything on the standard goodyears. whatever you do, use racing fluid or AT LEAST DOT4. Just general advice for people who track on hot climates. after the brake loss, bleeding the 4 calipers with racing fluid fixed the problem. looooots of air in the lines... who knows why?(like science pro explanation so it does not happen again) good day people! |
09-13-2015, 05:48 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2014 1le Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Niagara Falls Ontario
Posts: 174
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One step further, bleed immediatly before track days for best results. Keeping air out of the lines is an ongoing process when brakes are heat cycled at the track.
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09-13-2015, 03:32 PM | #3 |
I understand upgrading to dot 4 for better performance but how does air get into the brake lines? Im thinking the brake system is a high pressure sealed system and once the air is out that is it? I have never tracked my car so I have no experience there but i am curious how air gets in there?
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09-13-2015, 04:24 PM | #4 |
Drives: 14 1LE Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 1,567
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the fluid absorbs moisture over time and once the fluid boils the water turns to gas, which I suppose could be considered air. Once it cools it would recondense into liquid though.
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09-13-2015, 04:27 PM | #5 | |
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Albany, GA 2011 Camaro 2LT/RS 3.6L M6 Summit White w/silver rally stripes CAI intake, VTC, VMax PTB, VMax Iceolator, Apex intake scoop, Roto-Fab washer bottle relocate Build Journal: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=419992 . |
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09-13-2015, 04:58 PM | #6 |
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Is that some how related to my clutch pedal hanging up on the floor boards at the drag strip today?
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CCW sp16a track set, BTR stage 3 cam and kooks longtubes with high flow catsLocks@7.5 degrees castor and radius arm inserts, Ride Tech 2coilovers JDP upper control arm bushings BMR lower knuckle bushing Bo White throttle body3.91 gears Spohn del-sphere toe link and trailing arms Prothane subframe bushings
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09-13-2015, 05:19 PM | #7 |
Drives: 14 1LE Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 1,567
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not likely, did the pedal return when the rpms came back down? How much have you raced it or ran it hard?
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09-13-2015, 06:00 PM | #8 |
Drives: 1LE Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Northern wasteland.
Posts: 232
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Mine certainly never came back until I bled the calipers
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09-13-2015, 06:16 PM | #9 |
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yes as rpm came back down it came up, not too much racing third time and first time with drag radials on it launched real good maybe I mashed the clutch pedal harder than I normally have as it was feeling like my best run ever lol
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CCW sp16a track set, BTR stage 3 cam and kooks longtubes with high flow catsLocks@7.5 degrees castor and radius arm inserts, Ride Tech 2coilovers JDP upper control arm bushings BMR lower knuckle bushing Bo White throttle body3.91 gears Spohn del-sphere toe link and trailing arms Prothane subframe bushings
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09-13-2015, 06:22 PM | #10 | |
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playing it safe
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WOW! that could have been real bad, sounds like I am going to change the fluids if it will avoid that, no brakes =
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CCW sp16a track set, BTR stage 3 cam and kooks longtubes with high flow catsLocks@7.5 degrees castor and radius arm inserts, Ride Tech 2coilovers JDP upper control arm bushings BMR lower knuckle bushing Bo White throttle body3.91 gears Spohn del-sphere toe link and trailing arms Prothane subframe bushings
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09-13-2015, 06:31 PM | #11 |
Drives: '21 ZLE A10 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mechanicsville, VA
Posts: 6,808
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use Motul 600 or equivalent or Castrol SRF ($$) and enjoy the higher boiling temps and nice firm brake pedal. Motul 600 is a great fluid for sure and is always consistent. A Motive power bleeder helps the procedure go smoothly and with little fuss.
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09-13-2015, 10:06 PM | #12 |
Ok that make sense! I just purchased a 2015 1le and was wondering if you need to change the hose the connects the brake line to the calipers or did chevy put braided hoses on from the factory? Havent taken a wheel off yet to see if they are rubber....
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09-14-2015, 07:04 AM | #13 |
Drives: 15 Lexus RCF, 17 Vette Grand Sport Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: South Florida
Posts: 549
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No the 1Le has rubber lines upgrade them!!
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2013 Summit 1SS 1LE w/NPP, SW 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers, CAI Intake, Ported TB, Cammotion 224/232 113 LSA, BTR Valvetrain, Melling Oil Pump, 468 HP 423, Apex Catch Can, Tank Plates, RPM 4 Point Roll Bar with SCCA/NASA Cross Brace, Schroth 6 Point Han's Harness, OMP WRC Front Seats, F.M.T Trailing Arms, F.M.T Solid Aluminum Subframe Bushings, Moreno Motorsports Camber Plates, BMR Bushings Front and Rear, Essex/AP Racing Radi-Cal Endurance Front Brakes, Quantum Brake Cooling Ducts, ZL1 Rockers, ZL1 Air Deflectors, Heritage Grill, Pfadt Springs.
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09-14-2015, 10:29 AM | #14 |
Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/LS3 Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Raleigh-Durham
Posts: 1,409
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Rubber lines will be fine. You certainly don't NEED to change them. It's not like they will rupture or anything like that. Stainless lines will provide some extra abrasion resistance and better pedal feel though. Just make sure you spend the money on good ones, do not cheap out on stainless brake lines.
You should flush the brake fluid though before a track day with a good fluid like Motul RBF600. Me personally would not spend the money on SRF, since you need to flush it before each event it would get pretty pricey.
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BMR 1" Springs Koni Orange struts/shocks 1LE rear sway bar SRP Racing Pedals Hurst Billet short shifter Square tire/wheel setup Elite Engineering Catch Can Stainless Power longtubes/highflow cats K&N Typhoon CAI RPM Motorsports of Garner, NC dyno tune (421 RWHP) |
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