[Anti_venomSS]

Hey guys. Curious what you think my next set of mods should be. I was thinking one of these two routes. 1. Torque converter, 3.27 gears and a retune. 2. Race brakes in all 4 corners.

Will I notice a big difference with the torque converter and gears? Will running those breaks be reliable for when I want to go cruising downtown?


Current setup:
Intake, IM, TB, 2" headers, no cats, 3" exhaust, E85, catch can, 17" radials, skinnys, racing seats, gutted rear seats/trunk area, ECM/TCM tune. 480whp/500wtq.

[OneSlowV]

I went the aerospace street brakes all four corners . The drag style from them I would not use from them they even tell you not to run them on the street. That’s unless you are under 3200 lbs

[Anti_venomSS]

Originally Posted by OneSlowV

I went the aerospace street brakes all four corners . The drag style from them I would not use from them they even tell you not to run them on the street. That’s unless you are under 3200 lbs

Good to know man. I am definitely over 3200lbs. We have the same mods pretty much and you went 10.8 -. Haven't ran my car yet. Do you have any other mods besides the ones listed?

[ULTRAZLS1]

Race brakes, cold air scoop and under drive crank pulley. Gears and converter will help also but for the money I’m not that impressed yet. Both of those look like they are only worth about a tenth. Get your intake ported if not done yet. A 26 inch setup is also a bit quicker than a 28. Also a light weight battery. Carbon trunk lid with no spoiler is also a decent mod and will drop about 20 lbs and give less drag. I think it looks ok as well and might be my next mod along with rear aerospace brakes as I only have the fronts for now. Lightweight 15 inch rims all around is also a good investment the billet specialties win lites are some of the lightest around and the price isn’t too bad as 15 inch wheels as well as tires are pretty cheap compared to larger sizes

A decent bolt on setup with these cars and proper traction will run 10s all day if you have a good tune. Look into pray or gpi is what I woukd suggest. You are going to want hptuners and a wideband so you can easily make accurate changes to the tune and work with your tuner. One simple dyno tune is not the answer for best performance. One example is that you will want to run a no torque management tune at the track for max performance but load a street tune for daily driving that still has TM in it to try and preserve your transmission life. That’s my opinion

[OneSlowV]

Originally Posted by Anti_venomSS

Good to know man. I am definitely over 3200lbs. We have the same mods pretty much and you went 10.8 -. Haven't ran my car yet. Do you have any other mods besides the ones listed?

Weight reduction I was 3515 last time out now doing brakes I hope to be mid 3450 or close to it . I still have yet to do ud pulley or driveshaft and I was having issues last time out with the msd so I expect to be at least a tenth faster now I hope .

[Snowblind]

If you are a track rat I would say the converter, if you are a street racer then I would lean towards the Aero brakes.

[Anti_venomSS]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

Race brakes, cold air scoop and under drive crank pulley. Gears and converter will help also but for the money I’m not that impressed yet. Both of those look like they are only worth about a tenth. Get your intake ported if not done yet. A 26 inch setup is also a bit quicker than a 28. Also a light weight battery. Carbon trunk lid with no spoiler is also a decent mod and will drop about 20 lbs and give less drag. I think it looks ok as well and might be my next mod along with rear aerospace brakes as I only have the fronts for now. Lightweight 15 inch rims all around is also a good investment the billet specialties win lites are some of the lightest around and the price isn’t too bad as 15 inch wheels as well as tires are pretty cheap compared to larger sizes

A decent bolt on setup with these cars and proper traction will run 10s all day if you have a good tune. Look into pray or gpi is what I woukd suggest. You are going to want hptuners and a wideband so you can easily make accurate changes to the tune and work with your tuner. One simple dyno tune is not the answer for best performance. One example is that you will want to run a no torque management tune at the track for max performance but load a street tune for daily driving that still has TM in it to try and preserve your transmission life. That’s my opinion

My car has a ported stock IM and ported stock TB. Dave, John and Associates at EFX tuning did my complete bolt-on set-up. Dave tuned the ECM/TCM. It was my first time seeing a car being dyno'd thoroughly, and it was my car. What an experience.

Anyways, only a tenth from gears and torque converter? I think I will go for the FBO world record, but with Pray tuning this time around. I want to build the chassis so no more engine mods for now. Based on your comment, I think I need to put her on a diet.

[Anti_venomSS]

Originally Posted by Snowblind

If you are a track rat I would say the converter, if you are a street racer then I would lean towards the Aero brakes.

Skreet till I die. But I do want to have a world-record car, so the track will be necessary when they open here in the NE. Maybe I have the world record for FBO, stock ported IM/TB on a Mustang Dyno already in an A8? I made 478hp/497tq.

ABS/Stabilitrak/TC automatically shuts off over 1/2 throttle right now, which has caused Dave to nearly crash my car while running the shit out of it (He put flat spots on my new skinnies; to the point he had to pay and order new ones for me. I had to drive with a severe shake in my car for 3 days because he basically brushed off the issue. He was the reason I bought a second car. Scary experience.). I wanted to be an EFX car, but their downfalls outweigh the benefits. Pray knows we will bring the FBO record back to NC.

[Anti_venomSS]

Originally Posted by OneSlowV

Weight reduction I was 3515 last time out now doing brakes I hope to be mid 3450 or close to it . I still have yet to do ud pulley or driveshaft and I was having issues last time out with the msd so I expect to be at least a tenth faster now I hope .

Sounds like a diet is the next step. We will see what happens. I came in at 3560 w/ sunroof on a full race star drag pack and no passenger seat. 1ss car.

[ULTRAZLS1]

If you want a record for bolt ons you will need to do everything including gears and converter. You will also need a fast track. From what I’ve seen you need something out east. Even in similar DA I can’t believe how fast cars run at Cecil. A good 1 or two tenths quicker. If you want the record you are going to need all the available bolt ons and weight reduction at a fast track in good DA. I would also suggest some race fuel like c85 or ftw purple. Not many have experimented with it. I think 10.2-3 range is possible with these cars full bolt on with all the right variables. Most bolt on cars will be high tens to low 11s

From what I’ve experienced around 10.8 is the sticking point and it gets much Harder after that at the bolt on level. To get deeper into the tens with bolt ons you are going to need to address all the small details and have a fast track and great DA to set any kind of new record or sub 10.7-8 pass

[Anti_venomSS]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

If you want a record for bolt ons you will need to do everything including gears and converter. You will also need a fast track. From what I’ve seen you need something out east. Even in similar DA I can’t believe how fast cars run at Cecil. A good 1 or two tenths quicker. If you want the record you are going to need all the available bolt ons and weight reduction at a fast track in good DA. I would also suggest some race fuel like c85 or ftw purple. Not many have experimented with it. I think 10.2-3 range is possible with these cars full bolt on with all the right variables. Most bolt on cars will be high tens to low 11s

From what I’ve experienced around 10.8 is the sticking point and it gets much Harder after that at the bolt on level. To get deeper into the tens with bolt ons you are going to need to address all the small details and have a fast track and great DA to set any kind of new record or sub 10.7-8 pass

Yeah, I have been looking into the weight reduction stuff. My hometown track is arguably one of the fastest in the country - Maryland International Raceway. If I am going to address the weight properly, I have to remove a lot of the safety features from the car, which means I need to buy a trailer now 10.2-10.3 with bolt ons would be nice. Long road ahead.

[Snowblind]

Originally Posted by Anti_venomSS

Pray knows we will bring the FBO record back to NC.

Good luck slim

[Anti_venomSS]

Originally Posted by Snowblind

Good luck slim

I don’t think I have called anyone slim in my entire life lol. Don’t worry Jim. I’m coming for you

[Anti_venomSS]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

If you want a record for bolt ons you will need to do everything including gears and converter. You will also need a fast track. From what I’ve seen you need something out east. Even in similar DA I can’t believe how fast cars run at Cecil. A good 1 or two tenths quicker. If you want the record you are going to need all the available bolt ons and weight reduction at a fast track in good DA. I would also suggest some race fuel like c85 or ftw purple. Not many have experimented with it. I think 10.2-3 range is possible with these cars full bolt on with all the right variables. Most bolt on cars will be high tens to low 11s

From what I’ve experienced around 10.8 is the sticking point and it gets much Harder after that at the bolt on level. To get deeper into the tens with bolt ons you are going to need to address all the small details and have a fast track and great DA to set any kind of new record or sub 10.7-8 pass

Just noticed your signature has weight and power. I am literally the same Race W eight as you and nearly identical power; with stock gear/suspension/converter as well. Which track did you run the 10.69 at and what was the DA?