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Old 02-27-2018, 04:34 PM   #15
L99BEN
 
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Drives: 2023 BMW M4 Competition
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Sorry if sounds negative..How much money should be set aside to prepare for a potential wasted LT1 out of warranty(due to supercharger/tune)? Do people typically rebuild or replace the complete engine?

I ask because I am considering supercharging my 2SS or moving up to a slightly used hellcat or ZL1 (more power under warranty essentially) in a year or 2.
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2023 BMW M4 Competition (daily)
2022 ZLE M6 (weekend toy)
2022 BMW X3m40i

Past:
2022 Tesla S Plaid
2020 Shelby GT500 sold
2019 Hellcat Redeye-traded for new GT500
2019 ZL1 A10 - sold (meh)
2019 Tesla M3P
2016 Hellcat Challenger - A8 sold but never forgotten
2016 Camaro 2SS M6
2014 Mustang GT A6
2012 Mustang GT M6 "brembo" 3.73/FBO
2012 Camaro SS L99 (Wife's)
- slow

Last edited by L99BEN; 02-27-2018 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 02-27-2018, 07:36 PM   #16
internationlriders
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L99BEN View Post
Sorry if sounds negative..How much money should be set aside to prepare for a potential wasted LT1 out of warranty(due to supercharger/tune)? Do people typically rebuild or replace the complete engine?

I ask because I am considering supercharging my 2SS or moving up to a slightly used hellcat or ZL1 (more power under warranty essentially) in a year or 2.
My LT1 was replaced and the GM invoice was $16,500 for the motor and $3500 for labour. It prematurely failed, fortunately I only have a catch can so they didn't question replacing it under warranty. I would wait until there is at least 20k miles before heavy modding just to make sure the motor isn't a dud like mine was. I have a long ways to go before heavy modding since I barely put any mileage on it with my 5 mile work commute...
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:27 AM   #17
TJay74


 
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Bear in mind that is $16.5k for a brand new full engine. Repairs of an engine that has issues after a supercharger could be alot less than that depending on the repair needs and how far you want to mod the engine during the repairs.
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:55 AM   #18
L99BEN
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by internationlriders View Post
My LT1 was replaced and the GM invoice was $16,500 for the motor and $3500 for labour. It prematurely failed, fortunately I only have a catch can so they didn't question replacing it under warranty. I would wait until there is at least 20k miles before heavy modding just to make sure the motor isn't a dud like mine was. I have a long ways to go before heavy modding since I barely put any mileage on it with my 5 mile work commute...
Thank you for that info!
I understand a rebuild may be less but I think I’ll stay stock and upgrade to a more powerful car under warranty when I’m ready. As is this car has a nice balance of power and handling imo.
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2023 BMW M4 Competition (daily)
2022 ZLE M6 (weekend toy)
2022 BMW X3m40i

Past:
2022 Tesla S Plaid
2020 Shelby GT500 sold
2019 Hellcat Redeye-traded for new GT500
2019 ZL1 A10 - sold (meh)
2019 Tesla M3P
2016 Hellcat Challenger - A8 sold but never forgotten
2016 Camaro 2SS M6
2014 Mustang GT A6
2012 Mustang GT M6 "brembo" 3.73/FBO
2012 Camaro SS L99 (Wife's)
- slow
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Old 02-28-2018, 11:29 AM   #19
misterjaayy
 
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There is a forced induction section in this forum that answers a lot of the questions you have asked. Most engine rebuilts seem to be around the 10-12k mark depending on how much upgrading of components you want to do.
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Old 02-28-2018, 10:57 PM   #20
internationlriders
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L99BEN View Post
Thank you for that info!
I understand a rebuild may be less but I think I’ll stay stock and upgrade to a more powerful car under warranty when I’m ready. As is this car has a nice balance of power and handling imo.
Yeah I agree with you. As far as forced induction goes, my thought is buy it with FI then it has all the supporting parts and not as many things will potentially break or prematurely wear. The power on the SS ismore than sufficient for a rwd car, however, 500 rwhp NA and a diet shedding a few hundred pounds would be pretty sweet too!
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Old 02-28-2018, 11:37 PM   #21
KingLT1


 
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If it's a M6 I would go Turbo or PD(Maggie, Edelbrock, or even LT4 if staying under 600whp). The Centri stuff needs a waste gate or it falls out of power on the shift due to the long gearing...M6 cars need some aftermarket gear options badly!

If it's a A8 you can bolt any kit on and it's going to roll out...I like the ECS setup for a Centri blower. Air filter does not block the oil fill.
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Old 03-11-2018, 07:48 PM   #22
Drsagacity

 
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I had a centri blower on my Vette (ran about 800rwhp). To stay in the power band, I also needed to add a converter...which also changed the way the car drove.

For the Camaro, I went Maggie (will be delivered this week)...I will run around 550rwhp but will drive like stock...including idling in traffic on a 100 degree day. No need for gears or converter because of the Maggie powerband. Plus, it will be a completely safe way to drive a car daily and hit the track for low 11’s or high 10’s...
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:16 AM   #23
Atomic Ed

 
Drives: 2001 Audi TT, 2016 Camaro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L99BEN View Post
Sorry if sounds negative..How much money should be set aside to prepare for a potential wasted LT1 out of warranty(due to supercharger/tune)? Do people typically rebuild or replace the complete engine?

I ask because I am considering supercharging my 2SS or moving up to a slightly used hellcat or ZL1 (more power under warranty essentially) in a year or 2.
If you stay with the basic setup with any of these kits, which includes the kit supplied tunes, you should have a long engine life on your stock block. That's why the kit manufacturers can offer a 36k/3yr warranty.

All of the kits on the market make around 550 rwhp. Beyond 600 rwhp, engine life is inversely proportional to power.
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:46 AM   #24
Camaro Wolf
 
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I definitely would. And I would install it myself but hey that's me I had a few majors in mechanics and proportions you would get a lot of respect for installing it your self. Infact I did it on my non daily driver 2SS.
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Old 03-12-2018, 09:18 AM   #25
SliChillax
 
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I don't get it, why buy an SS and put all this money modifying the car when you could have gotten the ZL1?
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Old 03-12-2018, 09:30 AM   #26
TJay74


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SliChillax View Post
I don't get it, why buy an SS and put all this money modifying the car when you could have gotten the ZL1?
Because I have a 1LE and I will be $10k less than a 1LE when I am all done.
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Old 03-12-2018, 11:51 AM   #27
Atomic Ed

 
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Originally Posted by SliChillax View Post
I don't get it, why buy an SS and put all this money modifying the car when you could have gotten the ZL1?
While the Eaton 1.7 supercharger in the ZL1 does a good job of pushing the torque out quickly, other SCs, like the Eaton 2.3 (Edelbrock and Magnuson) have a distinct advantage IMHO. Chevy knows that down low torque is generally what the public wants in basically a DD and the Eaton 1.7 does a great job doing just that.

The Eaton 1.7 jumps out there quickly with a ton of torque, but does fall off somewhat in the upper RPM range. The ZL1 owners love that. The Eaton 2.3 on the other hand, loafs along at a slower rotor pack RPM and produces a much flatter, near tabletop, torque curve. And if you decide to throw in some pistons latter on, the 2.3 is quite capable of 800+ rwhp. The 1.7 tops out somewhere around 700+ rwhp.

I've had an Edelbrock SC on my car for over two years now and its been bulletproof. Very good out of the box tune and drives like a big 'old 8+ liter NA engine. Almost impossible for the passenger, or the car next to me, to tell the car is SCed.
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