[jcarroll012697]

So recently I purchased a racechip gts for my 2017 Camaro 1LT. But I have been kind of having issues since the start. The first day I installed it I had a check engine light and some kind of lurching when I started the car, but I took care of that by checking all my connections in the car and reconnecting everything and that went away. I thought all my problems were gone until I really pushed it and higher in the RPMs i had this issue where the engine seemed to cut out and the car would kind of lurch really hard and then keep going. I read around on this forum actually and read some advice other people have had on it. I swapped my spark plugs with NGK 6510s with a 0.022 gap.I have a ZZP CAI if that would matter? I've been running 91 octane in it since i bought it, i even contacted racechip about the issue through email but they didnt have any idea what the issue was either. They sent me a update to the racechip but that didn't seem to have any effect and they gave up.

Basically i was wondering if anyone else had any ideas what the cause of this could be? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[zts1986]

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...aceChip&page=7

Read this tread, specifically starting on page 7. I had this issue.

[Evil-Bee-NH]

Originally Posted by jcarroll012697

So recently I purchased a racechip gts for my 2017 Camaro 1LT. But I have been kind of having issues since the start. The first day I installed it I had a check engine light and some kind of lurching when I started the car, but I took care of that by checking all my connections in the car and reconnecting everything and that went away. I thought all my problems were gone until I really pushed it and higher in the RPMs i had this issue where the engine seemed to cut out and the car would kind of lurch really hard and then keep going. I read around on this forum actually and read some advice other people have had on it. I swapped my spark plugs with NGK 6510s with a 0.022 gap.I have a ZZP CAI if that would matter? I've been running 91 octane in it since i bought it, i even contacted racechip about the issue through email but they didnt have any idea what the issue was either. They sent me a update to the racechip but that didn't seem to have any effect and they gave up.

Basically i was wondering if anyone else had any ideas what the cause of this could be? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

ZTS has you covered. Honestly the racechip is a waste of money against a real tune. Even more so because you can't accurately datalog your car with the racechip because of what it does.

[wookwook]

I respect EB's point. But I also have to say that is a big leap for some people. I don't mean to lecture but, everyone has their own comfort zone and ya gotta respect that as well. Sucks that people are having a tough time with the GTS. But it seems to illustrate that bigger is not always better even for a high gloss product that seems to work for other engines without problems. I was happy with the RS, for what it was, a simple low risk, low effort plug in if you just want boost now, until you can figure out your own goals. RC gets you to about the halfway point of what a canned 93 tune delivers if you want a comparison. For many that's just fine too. If it works right.


OP btw, I had the same problems with the GTS. Sent it back. 93, no CAI. It wasn't long before the cut outs were seriously a concern for safety, so be careful.


I have an RS if you want to try it. cheap. PM me if interested.

[jcarroll012697]

Yeah I’m sure a real tune is always better, but most I found were in the $700 range, the biggest reason I picked up the GTS model in general is because I found a guy on eBay selling one and I managed to sweet talk him to sell me it for $250(!) and I thought I just had an amazing deal right there and it would be a relatively cheap and easy power jump. But unfortunately after install I’ve had it turned off to avoid those jerks. I’ll read through that link ZTS posted but I believe that’s the exact forum post I read through already and that’s where I got the spark plug idea etc but I’ll check it again I’ve not opened it yet. Thank you though guys I’ll reply witb any findings.

[jcarroll012697]

So reading from page 7 on that linked page, I noticed you said you were having that issue all the way up on setting 7 of the chip. I for one haven’t even dared try that high since I’ve installed mine due to my issues. When I first installed I started on 6 and had these issues, and then I dialed it back to 5 and then even down to 3 and am having the same issue it seems all through the racechips setting range. And this is with colder spark plugs already.i didnt read too far as I’m at work right now. But I’ll continue reading through it later when I can.

[Evil-Bee-NH]

Originally Posted by jcarroll012697

Yeah I’m sure a real tune is always better, but most I found were in the $700 range, the biggest reason I picked up the GTS model in general is because I found a guy on eBay selling one and I managed to sweet talk him to sell me it for $250(!) and I thought I just had an amazing deal right there and it would be a relatively cheap and easy power jump. But unfortunately after install I’ve had it turned off to avoid those jerks. I’ll read through that link ZTS posted but I believe that’s the exact forum post I read through already and that’s where I got the spark plug idea etc but I’ll check it again I’ve not opened it yet. Thank you though guys I’ll reply witb any findings.

That initial cost for a tune is a doozy for sure. Your best bet is to buy your own HPTUNERS MPVI2 for 300 and load the 4 to 8 credits on it yourself and have a local or remote tuner work with you.

[zts1986]

I’m advocating for the full tune. The RC is fun but comes with its concerns. They can’t meet the performance level of a proper tune without the issues that you’re facing now. After sending mine in and having it returned after a month+, it was fairly clear that all they did to solve the issue was “de-tune” the thing. The top end performance was better before the “fix.” Not saying it isn’t fun now, though. Between the RC, JacFab’s BOL, and a downpipe I’m running consistent 4.8s (just hit it for a fourth time this morning). So, there’s definitely a positive to it. But in the end, I’m itching for a tune. To be completely honest, though, that’s because I look to go even further beyond simple bolt-one and a tune is required for most of it.

If it’s all you’re going to do and you just want a nice bump, the RC is fine. Contact RC and tell them you have a defective unit and send it to them. They should fix it.

[jcarroll012697]

Do you guys have any "real" tunes youd recommend? Im not even sure where id start with that, i know theres a ton of options out there.

[jcarroll012697]

Originally Posted by wookwook

I respect EB's point. But I also have to say that is a big leap for some people. I don't mean to lecture but, everyone has their own comfort zone and ya gotta respect that as well. Sucks that people are having a tough time with the GTS. But it seems to illustrate that bigger is not always better even for a high gloss product that seems to work for other engines without problems. I was happy with the RS, for what it was, a simple low risk, low effort plug in if you just want boost now, until you can figure out your own goals. RC gets you to about the halfway point of what a canned 93 tune delivers if you want a comparison. For many that's just fine too. If it works right.


OP btw, I had the same problems with the GTS. Sent it back. 93, no CAI. It wasn't long before the cut outs were seriously a concern for safety, so be careful.


I have an RS if you want to try it. cheap. PM me if interested.

is there much noticeable difference in power between the RS and GTS? I haven't even been able to use my GTS too much so far but on setting 6 it seemed pretty alright i wouldn't say it was earth shattering difference, i honestly wouldn't have paid the full price for it having used it now.

[wookwook]

I guess I'm up to bat. RS vs GTS. I did try for a while to log the info. There is a thread in here with my dyno work done at near STD/SAE, which is where VCM scanner does correlate reasonably with dyno for comparison purposes I did at that time of year. OK I say that as I hope its a little more helpful than butt dyno comparison that most people can offer here. Which is also why you have read my lengthy and sometimes pontificating posts. Shit that was 5 syllables.

Short answer - No... its marketing. the shinier and more hyped the more $ they can get. Qualify that as if you can actually USE setting 7. intriguing isn't it? I don't say this as a jaded former user. The simple fact is THEY SAY IT RIGHT IN THE LITERATURE! Setting 7 is for special people and you aren't one....

Ok that's out of the way. You can use RS 5 during a New England Summer. Do your own weather charts. high 80s and humid. It was very reliable and that's no fib. The one detractor is knock reduction. I only ever saw as much as about 3 degrees of KR. It can be audible, but the engine is actively pulling timing back and it seems from what I read and hear, under 5 degrees is no problem. But it is there. You Never EVER want knock in this engine.

That said it manages to leverage high speed signal processing and it simply tweaks the signal between the MAP, AIT and MAF Sensors. Some call it remapping. Some even scorn it as blasphemy, no more than a bunch of resistors. It is remapping in a sense but no more than re-setting Torque limiters is in the E80A. Your just manipulating the senor data so the car believes what you want it to believe. Its similar in both worlds but implemented differently. No matter for the purists here think I am sure I will catch a bunch of flack no matter the rational, and I feel sorry for the vendors who do try to make a good product while making reasonable money, because that is capitalism. And we we Want Stuff! Stuff that makes us cool dammit. But I have to say the narrative hasn't helped. Shit I threw a 5 star BDX tune in my new F150 Eco with out even flinching.

Anyways, anyone can read any of our back posts. Scary shit there too. I have personally since reevaluated my position on RC vs, tune. I say that because I hear so many users can only use 91. The car needs 93. If your politically inclined as I am, maybe you are a Trump supporter and hopefully maybe Cali can get 93 octane readily. I am sorry if you are a Trump supporter. Don't flame me.

But - I feel if some one wants to get a tune to be better suited to 91 (or other fuel) then they should be able to, with out a penalty of a voided warranty. GM SHOULD offer tunes to help with geographical fuel availability, and the stark reality is they don't. SO we take it into our own hands. Which leaves the door open for abuse and over limiting the engine. you know- all the 400 HP charts we see. burb.

Anyways in summary the RS is a FINE choice. It will give you a little 'extra'. Its not a street brawler. Stop that. Its not. And ft you have to remove it to replace a cylinder under warranty, they will never know. Only kidding, it is a SAFE alternative. A very clever device that is easy and simple to plug in, and don't maul 2 sensor clips like I did. Fuk- evidence.

Tell the alcoholics to eff off and enjoy it fully. Like I did and do on occasion.

Hope that helps.
W.

[EWard]

Not going to quote lol, but that was a nice realistic write up, I really appreciate all of your input.

[Evil-Bee-NH]

Originally Posted by jcarroll012697

Do you guys have any "real" tunes youd recommend? Im not even sure where id start with that, i know theres a ton of options out there.

There are quite a few good tunes. It depends on what your looking for i will advocate getting your own HPTUNERS MPVI2 suite. Proprietary EFILIVE software tunes are locked so your at the mercy of that tuners discretion. ZZP will get you a safe tune but lacks the power that's safely available. VT can remote tune you with HPTuners but you'll need to reach out. They can also tune you for E85 Flex Fuel with their Proprietary EFILIVE as can BNR. Trifecta i would avoid for the track record as a whole not their results. Your best bet is finding a local dyno shop and having them safely brick by brick build you a tune. A reliable HPTuners 93 Pump Gas tune should be getting you 275-300whp and 340-380wtq with full bolt-ons. Excluding FMIC and Boost-o-lator. That's the best reference point i can give you. There's also a few individuals like Dannytech and Cooper who remote tune.

1 word of universally accepted advice on here is stay the hell away from RPM-MOTORSPORTS TUNES.

[Start The Machine]

Originally Posted by Evil-Bee-NH

There are quite a few good tunes. It depends on what your looking for i will advocate getting your own HPTUNERS MPVI2 suite. Proprietary EFILIVE software tunes are locked so your at the mercy of that tuners discretion. ZZP will get you a safe tune but lacks the power that's safely available. VT can remote tune you with HPTuners but you'll need to reach out. They can also tune you for E85 Flex Fuel with their Proprietary EFILIVE as can BNR. Trifecta i would avoid for the track record as a whole not their results. Your best bet is finding a local dyno shop and having them safely brick by brick build you a tune. A reliable HPTuners 93 Pump Gas tune should be getting you 275-300whp and 340-380wtq with full bolt-ons. Excluding FMIC and Boost-o-lator. That's the best reference point i can give you. There's also a few individuals like Dannytech and Cooper who remote tune.

1 word of universally accepted advice on here is stay the hell away from RPM-MOTORSPORTS TUNES.

Very well said. I'd like to add, the first thing you need to know is, this car is EXTREMELY unconventional. Trying to tune this car is not for the faint of heart. It's a total PITA to figure out the safest, best, responsible tune for it. Your HP #'s are close though. On the stock turbo 270 - 290 HP max. You are going to need a larger turbo beyond those HP #'s. The next step up is larger wheel upgrade in the stock housing. That's going to "safely" net you an additional 40-50 HP = 320 - 340 HP max that also puts you in the magical 1HP per 10Lbs realm. Anything beyond that is going to be the ZZP ZFR Turbo. At that point, you're definitely going to need upgraded stock internals and everything else = $$$$$. Not sure if it's worth it at that point....