[WillyZ83]

I'm looking at changing brake pads from the OEM ones on my 1SS for a better bite, better stopping force. I plan on keeping these calipers for now but have considered updating to the 1LE spec later on.

[arpad_m]

Do you want more stopping power for the street? If yes, the stock Ferodo pads are pretty good for a stock SS if you ask me.

[WillyZ83]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

Do you want more stopping power for the street? If yes, the stock Ferodo pads are pretty good for a stock SS if you ask me.

Yes sir , looking for more stopping power for some hard street driving

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by WillyZ83

Yes sir , looking for more stopping power for some hard street driving

Well OK I would try HAWK DTC70 pads, part number HB649U-605. I would also get some titanium brake pad backing plates so that you dont discolor the powdercoating on your calipers. www.girodisc.com You could also run DTC60 Pads on the REARS

Also stainless steel brake lines are helpful. (GOODRIDGE brand is good) www.goodridge.com

And lastly run HI TEMP brake fluid like WILWOOD EXP600 brake fluid

[WillyZ83]

Thanks for the advice so far ! I’ll look into those options for sure. I ran stainless lines on my race bikes but didn’t think of doing it for my daily.

[MatthewAMEL]

Yeah, do NOT put DTC-70s on a street driven car.



DTC-60/70 eat rotors for lunch when the pad is cold. Not too mention your car will sound like a freight train at every stoplight.


And absolutely no reason for Ti shims. Ti shims are almost never a good idea on any brake. The heat that the Ti 'protects' from has to go somewhere. The only place is back into the pad (pad fade) and rotor. You won't discolor your caliper. I have a lot of track days on my 1LE at Sebring, Daytona and VIR...calipers are still red.

Stainless lines are for dress up, they will do nothing for your braking performance or 'feel'.


Sure the high temp fluid is a good idea, but keep in mind a good fluid like Motul RBF600/660 or SRF absorbs moisture MUCH faster than OEM fluid. So you'll need to bleed more frequently.


If you are sold on Hawk (they do make good stuff), I would suggest the HP Plus. More aggressive bite than OEM.


But honestly, the OEM pad is magic. It handles street driving, AutoX and light track duty with ease.

[WillyZ83]

A buddy of mine also suggested the EBC yellow brake pads, I have experience with them on my old race bikes and they were good, then again that was track.

Hopefully some other pads offer more stopping power, these don't perform as good as I would prefer so trying other options out

[WillyZ83]

So turns out these pads do have more bite than I have them credit for. I didn’t get on them hard enough … today I did and here is my post of shame lol
Stock pads do bite better than I gave credit for .

[kropscamaro16]

unless you are tracking it you shouldnt need anything better than oem pads

[Osbornsm]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

Yeah, do NOT put DTC-70s on a street driven car.

DTC-60/70 eat rotors for lunch when the pad is cold. Not too mention your car will sound like a freight train at every stoplight.

And absolutely no reason for Ti shims. Ti shims are almost never a good idea on any brake. The heat that the Ti 'protects' from has to go somewhere. The only place is back into the pad (pad fade) and rotor. You won't discolor your caliper. I have a lot of track days on my 1LE at Sebring, Daytona and VIR...calipers are still red.

Stainless lines are for dress up, they will do nothing for your braking performance or 'feel'.


Sure the high temp fluid is a good idea, but keep in mind a good fluid like Motul RBF600/660 or SRF absorbs moisture MUCH faster than OEM fluid. So you'll need to bleed more frequently.


But honestly, the OEM pad is magic. It handles street driving, AutoX and light track duty with ease.

Okay, so many things wrong here.


Pads:

OEM pads are good for daily driving activities.
If you want more bite ask a professional like Ken @ KNS Brakes.


TI Shims:

I had upgraded fluid (Motul600) and pads on my SS 1LE without TI shims.
I boiled the fluid and went straight off at 75 MPH.


In other words...

GET TI shims, they keep the heat out of the caliper, where the fluid is.

And back into the rotor which is designed to get freaking hot. The pads can get as hot as they want, choose your compound accordingly.


Track Pads

You can run track pads on the street but he's right... they'll squeal like pigs. But you can drive them TO the event no problem.


Red Calipers
Caliper color fade is caused by heat.
If they're not fading... you're not driving hard enough.


Sorry to