[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

OK a little update on using on the RT660 setup. I just test fitted the 315 30 18 RT660's on the front again using a CAL CUSTOM spacer part number CAL-202375. This spacer is 6.35MM thick. This pushes the tire enough away from the strut body that there is NOT any tire rub on the strut body. BUT, there is maybe just two pieces of paper clearance (1/16th of an inch) room between the tire and the strut body. Remember I am using APEX EC-7 18 x 11 wheels with ET25 offset. i also run about -3.6 degrees negative camber.

So I will try next an 8MM spacer setup and check the tire poke situation out. RT660s DONT come in a 305 30 18 size which would be perfect using just the original 5MM spacer.

Took some pics today (see below)of the RT660s on the FRONT of the car to show how much clearance there is (see pics below) This is using the 6.35 MM spacer with the 315 30 18
RT660s on APEX EC7 18 x 11 ET25 wheels Anyway MONDAY, I will try out 8MM spacing to see what that looks like. I think using the 6.35 spacer results in bringing the tire a little too close to the strut body.

[sr71bb]

OK well the pics below are what the tire clearance looks like when using 8MM spacer. It PROBABLY is a little more than an 1/8 of an inch clearance. IF RT660's came in a 305 30 18 size I would go with that and the 5MM spacer but since they DONT, this will work.

The tire is basically EVEN with the top of the fender (in regards to TIRE POKE) so unless you want to push the tires OUT of the wheel well, this is the MAX size tire (315 30 18) you can run on a 18 x 11 ET25 wheel on the FRONT of the car. The centering ring that is on the HUB will still be able to go thru the spacers and engage in the hub of the wheel. A 10MM spacer is TOO thick to allow this and that is why you CANT use a 10MM FLAT spacer (if you could find one). Those type of spacers (generally 10MM and thicker) that have the centering rings by the way are HEAVY. They are roughly 3 pounds a piece because you bolt the spacer directly to the hub and in turn bolt the wheels to the studs that the spacer has on it. Avoid them if possible.

Now a ZL1 will have a little more room under the front fenders vs a NON-ZL1.

Notice also that if the tire was MUCH taller then it would rub at the TOP of the tire on the spring perch. My guess would be that 19 inch wheels WOULD NOT work with this combination and I even have my doubts that a 35 series tire on an 18 inch rim would work due to its increased overall diameter as well.

LME 416 engine will be delivered tomorrow and in the meantime I ordered some ZL1 type side skirts to TRY and keep the stone bruises off that area just in front on the back wheels. I have a GREAT guy I use that is going to WRAP that area with a gloss black wrap and THEN is going to put protection film over it. My Theory is the side skirts should to a certain extent keep flying debris from coming off the track surface and then DIRECTLY hitting that area. Typically this wont happen with street tires but anything 200TW and softer will have a tendency to pick up debris especially when the tires get hot.

Something to note here also is that the AMOUNT of NEGATIVE camber has NO effect on these clearances. The reason for this is just the TOP of the strut assembly moves with camber changes using in my case VORSHLAG camber plates. I am running roughly -3.7 degrees camber but if I was running say -2.0 degrees camber the TOP of the strut assembly would be closer to the outside of the wheelwell and in THIS case I would have some tire poke on the top of the tire outside the wheel well. So camber changes can DIRECTLY affect tire poke but NOT the inner clearances.

[L78toLT1]

If you're doing 2 - 3 track days per month, you will need to replace your valve springs and inspect the guides and seats annually.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

If you're doing 2 - 3 track days per month, you will need to replace your valve springs and inspect the guides and seats annually.

YEP I posted earlier I plan on replacing springs every six months or so. Good suggestion.

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

YEP I posted earlier I plan on replacing springs every six months or so. Good suggestion.

I learned the hard way that 16 track days is one too many lol! Since you're NA, you should be good for a year. Most of my track days were on very fast tracks like Road Atlanta and NCM, which didn't help matters.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

I learned the hard way that 16 track days is one too many lol! Since you're NA, you should be good for a year. Most of my track days were on very fast tracks like Road Atlanta and NCM, which didn't help matters.

The fastest track we have down here is EAGLES Canyon Raceway and COTA. You can see 145MPH + on either one of those tracks. Since de-acceleration seems to be the hardest on the engine, any course that calls for alot of downshifting seems to take the greatest toll our cars.

With my A10 on track mode, the car pretty much can downshift 2-3 gears very rapidly on de-acceleration and this is letting the car shift itself. You cant paddle shift this car as efficiently as it does on its own. I have had some driving experience with Dual Clutch paddle shift Audis and they were close but I prefer the A10 because it is a close ratio tranny.

I have had manuals pretty much all my life but the A10 is the best tranny EVER in my opinion.

[sr71bb]

The 416 arrived today. Anticipated power numbers are around 700HP on an engine dyno and perhaps 600HP to the wheels. I will post EXACT numbers once engine is installed, tuned and dynoed.

Below at the bottom of THIS post in a PDF file is the breakdown on the 416 SHORT BLOCK from LME. Heads are a proprietary port by AMP. Throttle body is ported LT5. Manifold is ported LT2. Cam is from Gwatney Performance specifically their LT NFC grind, lifters are LS7 and so on.

LME (www.latemodelengines.com) was the chosen vendor because in most people's opinions they are simply the BEST at making POWER and at the same time producing remarkably reliable engines. If you check YOUTUBE you will see they have won numerous engine build off competitions like ENGINE MASTERS. On a side note, this is a great watch regarding LATE MODEL ENGINES


AMP is doing the install. www.advancedmodernperformance.com

[sr71bb]

Well the 416 arrived actually on monday but AAA Cooper Transportation who was handling the delivery to AMP has not gotten off their asses yet to get it over to AMP. That should happen today.

I was curious about that so I made a trip to their AAA Cooper truck terminal and found a freight terminal that had over a HUNDRED loading docks almost ALL being used and maybe another 500-600 trailers that apparently HAVENT been unloaded yet. Looking INSIDE the loading dock area and all you could see were pallets of unloaded freight There are literally HUNDREDS of people it seems working inside this terminal.

So basically if you look up the words CLUSTER *UCK in the dictionary, you are going to see a picture of this freight terminal. I know we all have seen articles about the challenges of getting freight delivered and unloaded in a timely manner but to see it in person is pretty eye opening.

[sr71bb]

Ok Engine was FINALLY delivered to AMP on friday.

I have a set of Carbon Side Skirts that SHOULD be here tommorow. If you look carefully at the link below, you will see they have 12 pre-cut holes in the bottom of each skirt. Notice also that these holes are on the BOTTOM side of the skirt so that they dont show. These skirts come GLOSS BLACK, UNPAINTED or CARBON FIBER. If you look at the installation videos, MOST people try to simply use double sided tape for the install. For my purposes, I want something quite a bit stronger so I will use what is called a MUSHROOM rivet and NO double sided tape. I dont want these things coming off at 150MPH on a road course or being torn off should an off track incident occur at speed. GM THEMSELVES actually use rivets to hold on the skirts on some of the corvettes like the Z06 and ZR1.

https://wildhammermotorsports.com/16...skirt-kit-eos/

The two pictures BELOW show the rivet in the condition PRIOR to being installed and what it looks like once it IS installed from the standpoint of the back of the rivet. The rivet acts like a moly bolt does in sheet rock in that the back side of the rivet mushrooms out as the rivet is being installed. You drill a 3/16ths hole for installation of each rivet. The material you will be going thru is plastic so no chance of rust. The rivets are lightweight aluminum. If you need to remove rivet for some reason you simply drill out the center of the rivet.


The MAIN reason I am installing these side skirts is that I hope to minimize the stone bruising that you can get with debris being picked up with the tires and then being typically thrown across primarily the area just in FRONT of the back wheels.

Theses are EOS skirts so I would judge their quality to be 6.5-7 out of 10. The are not like C7 or ANDERSON composite skirts which are probably 9-9.5 out of 10.

IF this car was NOT tracked, I would probably for the Anderson Composite skirts but any car that you track is NOT going to be what I would call a SHOW quality car anyway due to the conditions you are subjecting the car to on the track.

Sometimes you have to make choices based upon your intended use of the car. I would judge my car to be very nice cosmetically but is certainly is NOT show quality.

I will update specifically THIS particular post when the skirts actually go on.

[sr71bb]

Well Long Block is now installed in the car. They will be finishing up tomorrow. Below are some pics. Notice that the heads are attached to the block using ARP STUDS. This MAY at first seem a little over kill for a naturally aspirated engine but this engine has almost 14:1 compression.

High Pressure fuel pump is an LT4 pump and well as an LT4 oil pump. Injectors are LT4 units as well. Should have DYNO in a couple of days. The Engine will have AMSOIL Break In oil in it to allow for better and faster breakin particularly in regards to the piston rings.

After 500 miles, the oil will be changed out to AMSOIL 15W-50W racing oil.
MORE to come shortly.

[h018871]

I don't know how I missed this thread!?!?

That'll be a beast, hope to see you at a track soon

[Corbs09]

That motor setup looks awesome, and expensive!

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Corbs09

That motor setup looks awesome, and expensive!

Yeah THANKS!! Its bleeding dollar bills (LOL).

I HAD plannned on running it at MSR Cresson texas at the APEXHPDE event but I need to run engine 500 miles on the break-in oil and I wont have time to do that BEFORE this weekend.

[sr71bb]

Making progress. They are shooting for a DYNO tomorrow. Just a side note. AMP's tuner since 2002 has tuned over 10K cars. 2nd PIC below is of the hardened pushrods that were used in engine.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/btc-pr7850312-16